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Need Advice On A Back Blade For My 2414


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#1 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 07:14 PM

I want to buy a back blade for my 2414 and have found a 5 foot model off of a 35 hp Ford tractor. I don't know if it is a Cat 1 or 2 blade, but I am assuming it is not a Cat zero. Can I ONLY use a cat zero back blade on my tractor? I have no experience with three point hitches and was hoping I could get some guidance from the board. Thanks for any help I might get. Bill

#2 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 07:41 PM

First thing is the size of the main pins and top link pins are diff sizes for the Catagory's. Cat one has 5/8" and think the Cat 1 is 7/8 on main pins, not sure top link, maybe 3/4" I'm thinking 5ft blade is good, but Ford one may be heavy. Seems they stick out farther too? or not? Farther out from tractor is not good for lift ability and steering issues. Harbour Freight and or Northern tools should have a ligher version in catalogs. Even just tractor supply stores may have them. 4ft is probly more what was offered for tractor when new and might be better. Width depends on how wide tires are set, so you can grade and keep the tires in the flatter spots on second and other passes. Same in snow. If the blade doesn't allow the tires to stay in cleared path, it won't go too well. Have to remember same for when angled also. If your handy about any blade will work if you wanna build framework for it. Make three point A frame, then use wide channel iron back to blade. Making the swivel is hardest part and then the part that should push on Backside of blade in center. If you had lighter blade in Cat 1, and it has removable draw pins, you can take those out and get the 5/8" to put on implement to hook to your arms. The width between arms is also diff on Cat sizes. Cat O is arbout 20" and Cat 1 is about 24" if I recall. Your arms need to be able to spread far enough to slip onto the blade pins. Many company's are offering Cat 1 pins and Cat 0 width, for use on Compact Utility tractors. I bought a grader box like that and it fit on PK with pin change, but once it got full of gravel I couldn't pull it too well. The whole box was just too heavy for the tractor, and it was only a 4ft width. Not sure if this was more help or more confusion, but what I know about it.
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#3 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 07:54 PM

A category 1 should fit. Just get cat 0 pins and put them in backwards. Use grade 8 washers to adjust for the hole size. It's a tight fit, so get longer Cat 0 pins if you can. My rear blade is cat 1, and I've used it for 2 years without a problem.

My rear blade only a 4 foot though, and I can tell you that it slows the 420 down in a hurry with wet snow or heavy rock. Not sure how it would work with a 5 foot.
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#4 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 08:02 PM

The first thing I was told when I was looking for a rear blade was "do NOT get a 4 footer" because once it's angled, your wheels will be outside the path. I bought a 5 foot KingKutter blade at TSC and couldn't be happier with it. It's stout enough that I can angle it and use the point to scarify the driveway and it won't hurt it. I too got cat. 0 pins and turned them in. The tractor has no problem handling that blade at all. You can see in the pic below how the blade attaches. I don't have a better pic on this computer but this is a good shot of how everything comes together. Just be sure to get a blade that allows you to turn the pins in. Not all of them do.

100_2199.JPG

Edited by David Brown, October 15, 2012 - 08:03 PM.

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#5 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 08:25 PM

Thanks for the help! I will have to do some measuring and weighing of this Ford blade. I bring my tractor home tomorrow and want to get ahead of the curve for snow removal readiness. Thanks again. Bill

#6 KC9KAS ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 08:39 PM

Maybe this will help

Attached File  3 Point Hitch Data.pdf   64.91KB   100 downloads
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#7 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 09:26 PM

Like said, if you can put the CAT 0 pins in backwards you should be ok. If you did not notice, Jeff has a loader on the front of his tractor. If you don't have anything on the front then steering will likely be very difficult, especially on snow. I have a CAT 0 york rake that is 4 feet wide and even with front wheel weights I can feel a MAJOR difference with steering. If you have a snow plow or snow blower on the front then you should have no trouble with it.
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#8 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 09:56 PM

I will have the original 48" spring trip plow that came with the tractor when new on the front. Hopefully this will balance the rear blade pretty well. I plan to add wheel weights and for now I will not fill the tires. The tractor comes with chains, but I would like to avoid using them if I can (less marks on the blacktop driveways). I need to fix a grounded wire (blowing ignition fuse when I turn on lights), and the fronts wheels wobble quite a bit (I am hoping that I can get away with just new bearings). I really have only one concern- tipping the tractor over. I worry about going over backwards, or even sideways with the 24" tires mounted for the narrow stance. I plan to be extremely careful, but sometimes that is not enough. The clutch sure seems to engage violently. It is going to take some practice to improve the quick engagement (maybe a lower rpm will help some). Thanks again for all of the help. Bill

#9 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 04:38 AM

I use my blade on my 2414 (and my Satoh for that matter) as well as on the FEL tractor and, while the steering is affected a little, it's not that much. It just feels like I have power steering and all I have on the front of that tractor is the front wheel weights. These 2414's can feel quite "tippy" when set in the narrow position. My advice would be to switch your back wheels from one side to the other to widen the stance a little. There are adjustments to make the tractor even wider but just doing this will make a lot of difference in side stability. I keep my wheels in this position all the time because I have a lot of hills on my property. I also use chains in the winter and this wider position allows the chains to mount without hitting anything. My chains are BIG. I've never had one want to go over backwards. Came close sideways once but that was the FEL and I had the bucket high on the side of a hill (wasn't thinking). The key is to get comfortable with your tractor and get to know it. Once you know its limitations, you'll know what you can and cannot get away with. Just don't get too comfortable. Always use caution and give these machines all the respect they deserve. When I was using mine as my main mower I would mow sideways on the bank along my driveway and not think twice. I just had to remember to shift my weight to the other side. I actually felt more comfortable on the 24 than I do on the tractor I mow with now. The most important thing is, get to know that tractor intimately and you'll enjoy it much more. Oh, and yes the clutch takes some getting used to, just as the shifting does. Don't worry, you can't hurt it.

Edited by David Brown, October 16, 2012 - 04:39 AM.

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#10 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 06:09 AM

If the 5 foot blade is actually a Ford brand blade it will likely be heavy. My 16 hp diesel can barely lift my Ford brand back blade. But if the blade is some other brand which has been attached to a Ford tractor you will need to see as others have posted about the pins setup and such. I have a blade from TSC that the small tractor handles fine. Locally a fella had a 5 footer and simply torched off some from each side until his Bolens handled it the way he wanted. Good luck with the project.
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#11 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 06:16 AM

I think my TSC blade weighs in at around 258 pounds if I remember correctly.

Edited by David Brown, October 16, 2012 - 06:16 AM.

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#12 moparharn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 07:34 AM

Man am I getting great advice, thank you all. The blade is a Ford blade, the problem is understanding the weight from a Craigslist picture. I will stop and see it tonight when I bring the tractor home. I only plan to use the back blade to pull snow away from tight areas and not for anything heavy like grading (at least at this point). I can get the Ford blade for $75, the TSC is $249 for 4 ft and $329 for the 5ft. If the Ford blade is too heavy it does not really matter. I will try to attach a picture of the Ford blade. Thanks again for all the great advice. Bill

Attached Thumbnails

  • back blade.jpg

Edited by moparharn, October 16, 2012 - 07:36 AM.


#13 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 07:56 AM

That blade really doesn't look all that heavy from the picture. The camera may be playing tricks on me though. It's difficult to see from the picture but it doesn't look as though you could turn the pins in on that one so that may answer your question right there. If you can turn the pins in, I don't think you would have a problem with that blade.

Edited by David Brown, October 16, 2012 - 07:57 AM.

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#14 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 08:02 AM

Looks like a great buy for $75 !! Like said above doesn't look as heavy as I thought it was going to be ,maybe for a small Ford compact ? Al
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#15 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 08:14 AM

There is a large variation in the build and weight of Category 1 implements. The one in your picture apears to be a light duty blade? There are Heavy Duty Cat 1 blades that weigh over 400 lbs.
The light duty what you want for the 2414. Physical size can be decieving. My Ford 1500 is about the same physical size with a 60" wheelbase as your tractor. But the Ford does weigh a shade over 2000 lbs and is rated for the same implements as an 8N.
I'm pulling a 6 ft Rhino 100 rear blade(With the 48" width of my tractor that's about perfect) and it handles it well Though I can load it to the point of getting wheelspin when full of gravel going uphill.. I think you could handle that blade on your 2414 but may have to limit the depth of cut if moving dirt or gravel.

At the very least the price is right and if needed it could be modified to fit your tractor. Heck The cutting edge would cost the $75(or more) if you bought that alone. Befre I got my tractor with the Rhino as part of the deal, I was quoted $100 for a worn out beat up Ford blade.like all used stuff you have to buy whats left.

Edited by JD DANNELS, October 16, 2012 - 08:17 AM.

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