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Rebuilding My First Small Engine...need Help.


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#1 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2012 - 08:31 PM

This is a engine I got for free. Is been in the weather for years. I want to get it running just to see if I can.

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#2 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2012 - 08:38 PM

Soaking parts in pb blaster. Do the re coils come apart?

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#3 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2012 - 08:57 PM

That looks like a recoil that is not rebuildable. A replacement comes with screws to attach it to the housing. I would also soak all the bolts with pb blaster and if it will not turn over I would also spray some into the cylinder. That spark plug does not look to good. Good luck with the project. I will be anxious to see the insides of the engine.


Geno

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2012 - 09:22 PM

I would say that engine needs a complete tear down. There almost has to have been water in there. Odds are it has at least one stuck open valve.

#5 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2012 - 11:39 PM

By the way the plug looked, I assume the engine is froze solid. I would start by taking the head off, and letting the cylinder soak in oil. Depending on how badly rust pitted the cylinder is, it may still be rebuilable. I picked up an old 40's briggs that was rusted solid, and was able to save it after a .020 bore. Good Luck, and post picks when you get the head off. Here is one of mine. Before, and after. :thumbs:

Matt

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#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2012 - 06:19 AM

By the way the plug looked, I assume the engine is froze solid. I would start by taking the head off, and letting the cylinder soak in oil. Depending on how badly rust pitted the cylinder is, it may still be rebuilable. I picked up an old 40's briggs that was rusted solid, and was able to save it after a .020 bore. Good Luck, and post picks when you get the head off. Here is one of mine. Before, and after. :thumbs:

Matt


Great pictures Matt! Most people would have given that engine up as a lost cause. Nice save!
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#7 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2012 - 10:44 AM

Looks like you have a nice project on your hands. Keep us posted as you progress with the project, I'll be interested in the out come.

#8 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2012 - 12:17 PM

Everything is soaking. I hope to get it pulled apart on Tuesday. Your pictures are encouraging.

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#9 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2012 - 04:39 PM

I pulled the magnito and the crank spun. Pulled the head. Looks good. I can push the exhaust valve close. It opens as I spin the crank. The oil looks good. No rebuild for this one just the minor stuff I've done.

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#10 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2012 - 08:22 PM

I pulled the magnito and the crank spun. Pulled the head. Looks good. I can push the exhaust valve close. It opens as I spin the crank. The oil looks good. No rebuild for this one just the minor stuff I've done.

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Thats fantastic news! I saw the rusty spark plug, and figured it had sat with water in it, but thats great that I was wrong! I'm sure you'll have it going in no time. :thumbs:

Matt

#11 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 08:13 PM

I like to never have gotten the pump off. It's a cute little thing. Do I pull the white gear to get to the valve keepers? It needs valve springs. How do I get the bearing off without messing it or the shaft up?

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#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 09:33 PM

Good to hear it wasn't full of water. For the condition of that plug, I expected seized rings at least.

#13 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 10:45 PM

I like to never have gotten the pump off. It's a cute little thing. Do I pull the white gear to get to the valve keepers? It needs valve springs. How do I get the bearing off without messing it or the shaft up?

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You'll have to use a 2 jaw gear puller to get the brg off the shaft. May need to apply a little heat w/ a propane torch to the bearing to get it moving. Not too much heat just enough to get it moving off shaft. Try it first w/ no heat, but if you pull too hard it will break the outer race. Then rotate cam to top dead center,make note of position of timing marks on crank and cam and carefully pull the cam out. Then remove lifters(some call them tappets). Now you're ready to take the keepers loose from valve stems.
HTH,
Mike
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#14 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2012 - 08:09 AM

Nice thread! I think you found this engine with not a minute to lose.

#15 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2012 - 08:41 AM

Your valve keepers are on the bottom of the valve stems in the 2nd pic. No need to remove the camshaft to pull the valves. BUT, the valve push rods that follow the cam lobes must be ground shorter to set the valve clearances. You must be very careful not to remove too much or your clearances will be too wide, and will render the "Easy Spin" compression release "bump"useless & she'll be a bear to pull start.
Yes, a simple 2 jaw puller should easily pull the bearing off the crank. You need a valve spring compressor to easier get the keepers on & off the valve stems.




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