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1983 Jd 116h Just A "simple" Fix And Then...


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#16 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2012 - 08:43 AM

That looks great Dave. You are doing a fine job.
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#17 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2012 - 11:23 AM

Thanks, Dave. It has been a push to get it done before the snow flies and having to remove the fly wheel on these Briggs L series engines, just to change the starter, leaves a little to be desired, IMHO.

What's another hurdle in the game, I'm used to it, for the most part.

#18 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2012 - 08:29 AM

New starter #1 is in the 116H and the flywheel back on. I had to make a puller for the flywheel as I didn't have one that would work. A 6" piece of 1 1/4" by 2" and a couple of holes drilled, a smack with the hammer, and things came apart. Quite easy, actually.

Here it is with the flywheel removed:
Posted Image

You can see where the starter mounting bracket bolts to the block and is the reason the flywheel has to come off to switch starters.
Along with having a broken starter post (+ in from battery) once things were apart, I could see why it also groaned and moaned when starting. The starter drive gear was shot, the return spring was missing all together, and the armature bushing in the top, was completely shot. There was at least 1/4"+ slop at the starter gear. Add to that, that the base plate on the old starter was made of PLASTIC... and you get the picture.

All the electricals have been cleaned up, pick-up magnet on the flywheel sanded and shiny clean, along with the coil. I still need to set the coil gap as currently and prior to removing the flywheel, I was amazed that it wasn't touching. TOO close and I wasn't able to locate my feeler gauge set last night. I "may" now where the shop fairies hid them, I'll have to look when I get home from work.

The engine tins are VERY nice, no scrapes or dings, ect. I'm thinking of just cleaning them up real well, giving them a good wax job, and putting them back on. Myself, I like a little character in my machines and I think that leaving the tins original, will give this little beast some "lawn cred."

Any objections to leaving the tins in original paint?

#19 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2012 - 10:30 AM

Had a little more time in the garage last night.

Posted Image
Starter in, tested (quiet as a mouse) and ignition test confirms spark at the plugs, all solenoids clicking and power at the fuel pump. I'm ready to run new fuel and vacuum lines, paint the top tin for the engine, and fire the beast up.

Posted Image
I just had to set the hood on to see what things looked like together. Quit last night at 12:30am...
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#20 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2012 - 09:41 PM

Looking real nice, Dave. Getting a bit anxious to get it back together? :smilewink:

#21 jd6296 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2012 - 10:27 PM

hello is this an opposed piston briggs?

#22 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2012 - 02:30 PM

Thanks, Travis... YES I AM ! Went out yesterday and put everything back together except the hood, hit the key and NOTHING !
Solenoid for the anti backfire clicks, PTO clicks when I flip the switch and the starter solenoid is NEW and was working perfect less than 24-hours ago...

Having thought it over in my head, I'll all but bet the farm, I bumped one of the Neutral Safety Switch wires loose. I'll have to check again tonight when I get home. Those wires are located close to the fuel line that I installed yesterday and I'll betch ya...

hello is this an opposed piston briggs?


Yes jd6296, it is an opposed L-head (valves in the "block") Briggs Twin. They were made, if I understand correctly, for John Deere and once the contract ran out, Briggs turned them into the I/C version that can be found in almost any riding lawn mower built by MTD, prior to the OHV Intek series of engines.

#23 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 10:08 AM

It's A L I V E ! ! ! ! !

Took a look last night at the "neutral safety switch" which is really a lever switch that is activated by the parking brake being set. Sure enough... there was a wire that had come off the post and that means a no go for starter circuit. Hit the key and she was running.

Happy day !

#24 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 12:40 PM

Awesome! I am always grateful for simple and easily fixed problems.
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#25 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 12:54 PM

Awesome! I am always grateful for simple and easily fixed problems.


Makes two of us ! The hydro sounds and feels strong, left it run for an hour this morning and then jumped on and headed to the steepest hills that I mow in the yard and it pulls strong and has that "oh-so- pretty" hydraulic whine to her now. Before the change out of the fluid(s) it felt a little spongy once things were warmed up well. Not any longer.
:driving_big_tractor:
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#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 04:40 PM

Glad you brought it back to the living! Have a great time with it!
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#27 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 05:21 PM

Glad you brought it back to the living! Have a great time with it!


Thanks, Kenny. If I can figure out the video function ( may have to consult my 8-year olds (yes---twins)) I would like to take a short video. Little things just purr.
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#28 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 11:54 PM

Great to hear it is running again. It looks great too.

#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2012 - 05:26 AM

Thanks, Kenny. If I can figure out the video function ( may have to consult my 8-year olds (yes---twins)) I would like to take a short video. Little things just purr.

I have twins, too. But mine are much older now! I'm sure they can help you out! LOL

#30 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 01:44 PM

Front bumper/hood mount welded up, dents taken out, and painted yesterday. When the paint hardens for a day or two, I'll attach the hood and be DONE with this little monster. Need to get back to prior projects and get a few other things finished. I'll throw a pic or two up when it is all back together and back on the lawn.
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