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Ford Snow Blade Refurb


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#1 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2012 - 07:46 AM

Thought I would go ahead and start the thread. I plan to repaint and fix a couple issues with the 09JC9848 blade.
First off will be the latch mechanism at the rear piece that goes under the tractor. Here's a parts pic to help explain what I am talking about.
09JC9848PartsBreakdown.jpg

Item #42 (little box at the bottom) is a spring loaded latch to keep the blade in place if you a back dragging with it. Neat thing, but is a PITA to keep it unlatched and remove the blade. I'll get some close up pics of this later. One thing I noticed is that it has a small hole drilled in it in a very nice place to hook a 1/8" cable to. If I run the cable forward along the frame, I can unlatch this from the front and slide the blade out very easily (well, sort of. It's rather heavy). So that is one item I will be working on.
Next item to address was the amount of lift I have. This was brought up in my other thread here, post #14 and pic of a temp fix in post # 18. I plan to address this during the repaint as well.
Another item is the trip springs (or lack thereof). There is only one stretched out spring and the PO had overrode it by attaching a chain where the other should be. I have ordered new trip springs, albeit from Sears. These should arrive in a couple days and I will have comparison pics at that time.
These springs are Sears part # R9466R and only $7.13 plus shipping. They are trip springs for a Sears Blade. Someone (on another forum) had used these before with no issues, so I thought 'What the heck, worth a try!'. They are on the way!
Later today, I plan to get the blade out and take some before pics. I want to look a bit deeper into the lift height issue before I make any changes, so attaching the blade will be needed. I will use the above pic for any parts call out as I explain what I do.
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#2 Russ OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2012 - 08:26 AM

Wow there is a differnts from what you have an how a snowplow goes on a 195,,

#3 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2012 - 08:41 AM

Yes, quite a difference. And without a model #, very hard to find a parts listing for any of these.

#4 jms180 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2012 - 08:41 AM

Thanks for sharing Kenny I always enjoy your projects.

#5 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2012 - 10:33 AM

Here's the first of the pics. The first 2 are the latch I need to add the cable to. Then the PO's chain.
Image001.jpg Image002.jpg
Image003.jpg
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#6 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2012 - 11:37 AM

I got the blade attached. (Note to self: Take the mule drive off first!) I have found what limits the up/down travel. Up is the flanges for the axle mount. That limits the ground clearance to about 6". Down is the Huge rod that goes through # 40 above. That limits it to about 1" to1-1/2" below grade. I can add about a 1/4" thickness to the bottom of the attachment tube, #16 in the above pic. Not much to be gained, but some may help if piling snow/dirt. Now to take it off and start the dis-assembly for paint.
Image005.jpg Image007.jpg
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#7 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2012 - 04:15 PM

Got some more accomplished today! The new trip springs came in. I am impressed with them. They are about .020" bigger diameter on the wire. They will work with no big challenge.
Image008.jpg
Here's a pic of the 1/4" plate I added to the bottom. This will give me about 3/4" more lift at the front, but not bind the blade against the axle brackets.
Image009.jpg
The little dodads on the side will hold the cable for the latch release.
Image010.jpg
Lastly, I have a bad bow problem in the lower/cutting edge area.
Image011.jpg Image012.jpg
My thinking is to remove the 1" x 1" angle, tack weld a piece of 2" x 3" x 1/4" to the front to bring things back to straight. Then weld in a new 1" x 1" across the rear side. Then I can make a new cutting edge out of some 1/4" x 4" that I have.
What do you all think on this?
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#8 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2012 - 11:31 AM

I got the old 1X1 angle cleared off this morning and used an idea I got from Ray (jdcrawler). I stood the 2X3 on edge and had the 2" clamped against the blade. In the first two pics, I have circled what I believe caused the bow. The 'shoes' had been bent into the blade, deforming the area and contributed heavily to it bowing. How they got bent, I haven't a clue. I got my two 'body' hammers (4lb. BFH) and proceeded to coax things back into shape.
Image013.jpg Image014.jpg
After doing that I still had a bit of bow in it.
Image015.jpg Image016.jpg
By using some 1/8" thick material at the center only, I was able to get things close enough so the new 1X1 angle will keep things fairly straight.
Image019.jpg

The cutting edge on this is only 1/8" thick X 3-1/2". I have some 1/4" X 4" that I can make a new one from, which may help keep it straight.
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#9 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2012 - 05:17 PM

...
What do you all think on this?


Sounds like you're on track, and that would be heavy duty enough for sure... GL and real interested in this as I am doing some similar stuff to my ford...
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#10 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2012 - 05:32 PM

I have some small parts to clean up. Then it's on to the new cutting edge. My dilemma/fun part will be making slotted holes in the 1/4". I'll get something figured out!

#11 Russ OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2012 - 09:24 PM

Looks like you are comeing along great with it,, Keep up the good work with it,,,
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#12 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2012 - 06:09 PM

No pics tonight. I had to go up to the lake cabin and put in a new stool. But a bit more paint got applied in my absence. Next couple days may be too cool to apply paint, but if I can get some pics, I will. Have another job to work at tomorrow, maybe Sat. before pics.

#13 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 08:06 AM

My friend Steve cleaned some of the bolts for me yesterday. I just went out and grabbed them and stuck them in a 'low' oven to warm a bit for painting later. Guess I need to go grab the paint,too! DUH! I'll have a few pics later today!
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#14 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 02:13 PM

Pics as promised! I have some of it back together and some parts just painted.
Image021.jpg Image022.jpg

here is my cable for unlatching the blade for removal:
Image023.jpg Image024.jpg

By pulling the cable and hooking the loop over the bolt nearby, I have it unlatched and can use both hands to pull it forward enough to get it out of there:
Image025.jpg Image026.jpg

Here's a pic of the 'new' Sears trip springs installed:
Image027.jpg

I'll have more pics tomorrow when the other paint has dried. I need to start on the 'new' cutting edge for it today.
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#15 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2012 - 02:55 PM

Finally, the last update! I changed my mind on the cutting edge. I had some 2-1/2" X 1/4" that i welded to the original edge. This straightened things up, plus gave me another 3/4"~ beyond the old edge. It's all back together and put away.
Image028.jpg Image030.jpg
Image031.jpg Image032.jpg
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