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Kohler K341 Troubles


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#31 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:33 PM

That crank looks like a clutch was used for a long time with a failed bushing or something. Not even enough to have been machined. Looks like it's been worn down.


Maybe, I think I'll swap cranks and drill out the block like you say.

That's what I like about this site, ask a question and you get an answer.

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#32 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:36 PM

Looks like the crank might be 1" out as far as the end of the key. From there on it's a mess.
How good are you with a file, while the engine is running?

#33 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:41 PM

Looks like the crank might be 1" out as far as the end of the key. From there on it's a mess.
How good are you with a file, while the engine is running?


If it works out that both crank journals are standard size I'll rebuild the 14 with 1" crank, get it running good and sell it.

#34 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 07:07 AM

Will, are those standard sintered bronze bushings or brass. Hard to tell in the photos. Are they custom made or standard size?

#35 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 10:30 AM

Doug, If you are going to have the cranks out to swap them, take the bad crank to a machine shop and have them clean it up to the proper Dia., IE 15/16' or 7/8'. Then all you need is the proper bushing to make the crank work for you.

#36 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 12:15 PM

I pulled both engines apart and this is what I found
Both are standard size, rod journals and bores, the 16 is really clean inside, has no balance gears, but the piston don't look so good, both oil ring gaps are within 1/4" of each other.
008.JPG

The cranks are different, 14 crank fits the 16 block and it will probably work, just looks different.
The PTO end crank on the left is the 16, right 14 the way it's suppose to be.
001.JPG

Crank on the bottom is the 16 and you can see someone punched it for some reason all around the end.
Also you can see where the key has been moving around.
002.JPG

This is where the cranks differ the most aside form the PTO end, crank on the left is 16, right 14.
(-edit had the right and left backwards, fixed now-)
004.JPG

Pic of the proper clutch mounted on the proper size crank PTO in the 16 block.
005.JPG 007.JPG
As you can see there looks like there is enough meat to drill and tap for bolts.
The bolt holes in the 14 block are almost 1 - 1/4" deep, the 16 blocks bolt holes are just under 1" deep.
I thinking of drilling 3/4" deep then thread them for the bolts.
And I might as well buy a rebuild kit for it to get some gaskets and give it a new piston with rings, plus a new rod, try to make it as good as I can while it's apart so I don't have to do it again.

Edited by DH1, September 30, 2012 - 05:04 PM.

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#37 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 12:23 PM

Doug, Maximum bolt thread strength in a tapped hole is only as deep as the Dia. of the bolt. That means that you only have to tap a hole 3/8" for a 3/8" bolt, as long as the new threads are cut good. Make sure you use a lot of tap oil and reverse the tap every full turn to get the best threads. If you can go 3/4" deep, that will make up for any partial threads that were cut. I hope that make sense.
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#38 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 02:25 PM

The 14hp crank...am I seeing flat areas on the bottom of the crank flyweights? It sure appears to have flat areas machined. If it does, then someone has put a crank from a K301 into the 14hp block. 14 & 16 hp crank throws DO NOT have those flat spots & it will not work with a 16hp piston unless the crank has balance weights added. I do believe Brian Miller's site has info on how to do this, and he offers the service unless I'm badly mistaken. You see a lot of 14hp engines with 12hp cranks people put in them, and you can get by sometimes with never a problem, but with the heavier 16hp piston, a 12hp crank is a definite no-no!
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#39 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 02:52 PM

I noticed that machined area's also and thought it didn't look right for a K321 crank. Thanks Daniel for confirming that.

#40 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 02:57 PM

Crank on the bottom is the 16 and you can see someone punched it for some reason all around the end.
Also you can see where the key has been moving around.
Posted Image


Doug, That is called swedging, by using a center punch, each dimple makes the Dia. around the crank larger. You can make up a few Thousands by doing this, but not a 1/16", .0625.. If I were you I would that the 16 crank to a machine shop and have it turn to a common Dia., then use a bushing to fit the clutch, either way some work is going to have to be done one one of them.
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#41 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 04:48 PM

The 14hp crank...am I seeing flat areas on the bottom of the crank flyweights? It sure appears to have flat areas machined. If it does, then someone has put a crank from a K301 into the 14hp block. 14 & 16 hp crank throws DO NOT have those flat spots & it will not work with a 16hp piston unless the crank has balance weights added. I do believe Brian Miller's site has info on how to do this, and he offers the service unless I'm badly mistaken. You see a lot of 14hp engines with 12hp cranks people put in them, and you can get by sometimes with never a problem, but with the heavier 16hp piston, a 12hp crank is a definite no-no!

I messed up, got the left and right backwards, the crank with the flat machined spots came from the 16 sorry.

#42 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 05:01 PM

Drilled and tapped out the block used the original bolts from the 14, 7/16NC14 threads, now the original clutch mounts to the 16 the way it's suppose to for a MF16 tractor.
003.JPG 009.JPG
010.JPG 011.JPG

Edited by DH1, September 30, 2012 - 05:05 PM.


#43 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 05:12 PM

Going to order myself one of these kits, standard size, so I can finish it and see how it runs.
http://www.ebay.ca/i...=item5895c48ccb

I dealt with these guys before and had good service from them.
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#44 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 05:41 PM

Glad you got the PTO mounted correctly. Nice rebuild kit, too!

#45 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 06:30 PM

I messed up, got the left and right backwards, the crank with the flat machined spots came from the 16 sorry.


It's a wonder the 16 stayed together with that 301 crank in it! Usually you end up tossing the rod through the block with that combo.




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