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Kohler K341 Troubles


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#16 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 07:40 PM

Drill and tap it Doug. Lots of meat there. I had to do that to the K341 I got from you.


If that's so then I guess that's the answer.

#17 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 07:44 PM

Ahhh...could you put a larger pulley on the decck? or smaller to get the rotation you need?

#18 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 07:47 PM

Checked Brian Millers Kohler engine site and he says 14 and 16 cranks the same.

#19 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 07:50 PM

Checked Brian Millers Kohler engine site and he says 14 and 16 cranks the same.


What....you didn't trust me? I'm hurt! :smilewink:
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#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 07:53 PM

If you drill, which is the best route, don't drill all the way through. Start the threading with a std tapered tap for ease of starting, then finish with a "bottom tap" to get threads near the bottom. I can measure a hole on a block I have here to tell you how deep to drill. Best to put a piece of PVC or copper tubing on the bit to control the depth without worry.
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#21 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:00 PM

Shouldn't one be able to drill and tap to the same depth of the existing hole?
Are there bosses inside there, or are all the blocks the same? I thought they where the same? :confuse:
And do as Daniel says, with a bottoming tap.
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#22 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:03 PM

What....you didn't trust me? I'm hurt! :smilewink:


OMG delete my last post :laughingteeth:

I thought maybe because of larger bore, bigger piston, more reciprocating weight, the counter weight might be different but it's not.

#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:05 PM

I figure all blocks have all possible mount locations with a boss on the inside, whether drilled/tapped or not. And yes, I'd say the depth of any of the possible areas to be drilled & tapped to be the same depth as those already in Doug's block.

#24 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:07 PM

If you drill, which is the best route, don't drill all the way through. Start the threading with a std tapered tap for ease of starting, then finish with a "bottom tap" to get threads near the bottom. I can measure a hole on a block I have here to tell you how deep to drill. Best to put a piece of PVC or copper tubing on the bit to control the depth without worry.

Shouldn't one be able to drill and tap to the same depth of the existing hole?
Are there bosses inside there, or are all the blocks the same? I thought they where the same? :confuse:
And do as Daniel says, with a bottoming tap.


I have the 14hp engine so I should try to make the new holes about the same depth as the the ones in the 14
Looks like the 2 bottom ones there's enough there, the top ones ???

Just checked to see if I could switch the pulley sets on the clutches but there different can't do it.

#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:07 PM

OMG delete my last post :laughingteeth:

I thought maybe because of larger bore, bigger piston, more reciprocating weight, the counter weight might be different but it's not.


I new dat! :smilewink: But you are smart to double check. Trust me! :rofl2:

#26 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:11 PM

Maybe I can do what some farmers around here do and just weld the clutch on, what do you think of that idea? :confuse:
:bigrofl:

#27 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:13 PM

Maybe I can do what some farmers around here do and just weld the clutch on, what do you think of that idea? :confuse:
:bigrofl:


Sure would save a lot of time huh! :rofl2:

#28 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:17 PM

Just for FYI, here are pics of how I bushed the 1" shaft on a K341, to take a 1 1/8" clutch.
Those holes I drilled/tapped into the block, to the same depth as the existing ones, which are about
3/4" closer to the crank.

P2210164.JPG
P2210165.JPG
P2210166.JPG
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#29 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:25 PM

That's what I'd like to do but my crank is tapered for some reason and it doesn't look like it was made that way.
1" near the block, and 7/8" near the end. Must of had or tried to put this engine on a generator???
002.JPG

#30 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 08:27 PM

That crank looks like a clutch was used for a long time with a failed bushing or something. Not even enough to have been machined. Looks like it's been worn down.
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