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Peerless 2300 Solid Rear Axel, Is It Possible?

john deere 110 peerless 2300 differential

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#1 Jdboi OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 05:55 PM

Hello all,
I have a 1967 JD110 that I like to take to the local pulls and such but one thing I've found is that the trans-axel seems to be a slip differential! Was wondering if anyone has had success welding them solid or if there is a suitable swap that would work
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#2 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 06:54 PM

Welcome!

The Peerless 2300 used in the RF tractors was never available as a limited slip unit. It is a standard oven differential. At some time in the 2nd generation 110/112 tractors (made between 1968 and 1974 until the 200 series was released) Deere did offer a limited slip differential in the 112s but it was problematic and most were replaced with a standard 2300 under warranty.

Found this on the board with a bit of google-foo:
http://gardentractor...-differentials/

This might be helpful:
http://www.odref.com...RIES/index.html

Found this too:
http://www.weekendfr.../335/33237.html

I am sure there is a to weld up the diff if you are looking for maximum traction but I would expect that to impact which class you can run it.

Thinking out loud here... If there would be some way to install independent brakes on each wheel you could use the brake on the slipping wheel to redirect power to the other side.
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#3 Jdboi OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 09:37 PM

Thanks for the info, the independent wheel brakes is a good idea but for the time and effort involved and trying to rum it while going down the track, I believe welding up the rear end will be the best choice for me I typically pull in the alley800 or 1000lb stock class(where i come from a little sears tractor with a little16hp kholer jammed under the hood with some fancy decals is considered stock). never had one apartshould make agood winter project anyhow
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#4 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 09:41 PM

I am no puller, but using brakes during a pull, especially if a high hp puller....that is dangerous. Just a slight tap on a brake under such a hard pull can send you flying off to the side. Welding up, then using body english is the way to go I'd say.
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#5 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 02:29 PM

Don't weld on the Bull gear what ever you do.
You'll end up blowing it through the bottom of the case.You can weld the spiders up like this.


Or weld the axles to the carriers in the inside the Dif.

If you weld he axles you run the risk of hardening the ends (makes them brittle) and snapping the axle off.

1st pic is a carrier that the axle rides in.It bolts to the Bull gear.

2nd pic is the whole dif for referance.

Attached Thumbnails

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#6 Jdboi OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 09:08 PM

thats some great info, thanks! im gonna give this a try, may take it to a buddies we only have an arc welder and doing a mig job looks a lot easier. maybes it'll do some awsome doughnuts when its done :laughingteeth:
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#7 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 09:29 PM

I have an extra diff on the shelf in the garage if you are interested.

Edited by Trav1s, September 30, 2012 - 09:29 PM.

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