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Ariens Gt19 Interlock/time Delay


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#16 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2012 - 04:02 PM

Ooopppsseeee! Glad you didn't have to call the fire dept. Must be time to build from scratch.

#17 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2012 - 07:24 PM

Here is what the thing should look like in the Ariens manual.

Posted Image

#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2012 - 06:05 AM

If you say so! Doesn't make a bit of sense to me. Never could figure out that stuff!

#19 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2012 - 07:09 PM

Here's my prototype creation. Has a 8.6K resistor because I don't have any 7.5K, I'll check Radio Shack when I go for a breadboard and project box to put it in.

The PTO's stay engaged and I can hear the engine start to shut down when I bounce on the seat but as soon as I'm back on the seat the engine and PTO's continue to run.

Next I need to check to see how long the PTO's continue to run when it's in park and I get off the seat. I used a 100uf capasitor because it's physically the same size as the original time delay but the old transistor circuit boards have a 10uf. My original guess of 1000uf being too much would most likely give you enough time to get off, walk around the tractor and get back on. The PTO's should disengage long before you can get your foot on the ground.


Posted Image


Posted Image


The amp draw between the yellow wire and black wires, through the big diode, is just over 1 amp so my guess of the original time delay having a 6 amp diode isn't needed. Their the same size as the 3 amp diode thats on the white wire, park start interlock switch, at the ignition switch so that's what I used. The black wire supplies power to the switch through the auxiliary terminal when you take it out of park and gets it's power through the seat switch.

I'll make a list of parts and prices from Radio Shack when I'm all done in case anyone is interested.

EDIT: swapped the 100uf cap for a 10uf cap, dropped the time delay on the PTO clutch relay to about 1 second which should be perfect. I can stand but I can't get off before the clutch disengages.

Edited by Wm McNett, October 02, 2012 - 03:04 PM.


#20 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2012 - 07:52 PM

Thats neat seeing your project. That is way over my head, never could figure those things out.

#21 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2012 - 04:32 AM

Outstanding work - very impressive Indeed! Are you an electrical engineer? On your diagram, do the yellow, black and red wires correspond to the same colors on the Ariens module? Also, what is the green wire on your bread board? Thanks.

#22 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2012 - 05:14 AM

Glad you have the ability to figure all this out. I'd have found a different solution.

#23 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2012 - 12:03 PM

No I'm not an electrical engineer, I'm employed as a tool and die maker. I'm basically copying what was in the little metal can. Which is why I say the drawing in the Ariens manual is wrong. Yes the yellow, black, and red wires are the same as the Ariens module. The green is the ground, was going to make it black but to save myself some confusion I chose green. Perhaps it will be black when I'm done and have the yellow, black, and red wires back in the brown connector.

#24 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2012 - 11:34 AM

here's my creation. all I need to do now is solder it together, put it in a box and plug it it

Posted Image

I had to cut a perfboard down to fit the little box I found and open a few holes up for the big diode and the 18 awg wire.

#25 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2013 - 07:56 PM

I finally got around to soldering this thing together and hooking it up. It works great but theres a problem somewhere. When I ground it, with the key off. the interlock relay clicks and the hour meter starts running.  :wallbanging:


  • olcowhand said thank you

#26 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2013 - 03:31 PM

I figured out what I did wrong. When I soldered it together I didn't follow the schematic. I had the 2nd small diode after the capacitor not before. I fixed it last night, plugged it in this afternoon and it worked just like it is supposed to. Then a few seconds later I hear the relay click ... click . click ... click  :mad2:

So I got online and ordered a new $120 one and the $50 pto switch I've been putting off buying.

 

After sitting and pondering some more I realized I never cleaned the flux off after fixing it. So I grabbed the contact cleaner and hosed it off real good. Dried it off, pluged it back it and so far it's not closing the relay and running the hour meter all by itself.



#27 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2014 - 10:06 AM

This shouldn't be too hard to build and should be under $20 ;-)!cid_887DC29CB5F8481E86285FE760C88CDC%40


Bill, is your DIY delay still working for you? Also, I was trying to figure out how this works and was wondering the purpose of the black wire between the time delay module and ignition switch (aux lug). Thanks.

 

Edit:  Ah, my brain cramp is gone! The black wire feeds the ignition through the ignition switch.


Edited by artbuc, May 24, 2014 - 02:53 PM.


#28 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2014 - 06:05 AM

LOL I hear ya on the brain cramp!

 

Yes its working. After spending money on a new interlock, installing it and having a problem. I put the this one I made back in and have been using is  ever since. The new one is in a box on a shelf in the garage.



#29 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2014 - 06:56 AM

LOL I hear ya on the brain cramp!

Yes its working. After spending money on a new interlock, installing it and having a problem. I put the this one I made back in and have been using is ever since. The new one is in a box on a shelf in the garage.

Great! I do have a few questions if you do not mind. What size cap did you settle on and was the original cap non-polar with two leads? Did you ever figure out what that S6AH diode is? I have been trying to identify it but come up empty. Finally, your diagram shows the transistor base connected to the input from the yellow wire from the seat switch and emitter going to ground. This is the same way Ariens shows it. Is that the way you actually wired it? Thanks.

PS. I had a similar experience with my Maytag Neptune washing machine. Paid $150 for a new main controller circuit board and then discovered I could repair and improve the old one for $12. That was 5-10 years ago and the new board is still in its box.

Edited by artbuc, May 30, 2014 - 10:35 AM.


#30 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2014 - 06:50 PM

I'm sure the 10uf mentioned above is the one I used but I'll have to look when I have more free time. the big diode only needs to be a 3amp, the draw through it is 1amp, although if memory is correct I used a 6amp and the transistor is wired as picture.

I did spend more then $20, bought a bunch of pieces parts to try to get what I wanted from allelectronics.

 

The truck thats been setting on jack stands for 2 years has become my #1 priority to someone, the township wanted it plated, insured, running and road ready in 10 days. That was 2 weeks ago, just pulled the stands out from the rear last night.

Now it's the loader tractor setting in the front yard, whose pump drive belt keeps falling off, has become #1 before someone starts complaining about it as well. The 9/16" bore pump pulley is all worn out. No one makes 1/16" bore pulleys.






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