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... And Don't Forget Ernie!


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#1 littletractorguy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 02:22 AM

Well, he's gotten kinda short shrift, him being the first ANTIQUE tractor I have, AND the closest of the bunch to being a drive-able machine... So, with the permission of LTGal, I arranged to do a little something for Ernie to make him feel not-so-left-out... Spent the past couple days dropping the oil out of him, dropping the gear oil out, oiling him up and lubing him so he's almost ready to drive... All of that work was in preparation for THIS!

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I spent the whole late evening figuring out how to put this #42 blade on! Its a bit of a puzzler without a manual, but I figure I got it! So first, the mount...

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Initially I figured it would need a draft rod to go across the mount, so I picked up a piece of 1/2" threaded rod...

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However, turns out that was not the case... I DID however, need some 3/8" fine threaded rod to make the lift rod out of... Thanks to rhenning's post in 2011 on MTF, I was able to get the length, and figure out that I could steal two clevis' off Cranky to save myself some big bux on a lift rod...

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I'm pretty sure I got the lift link oriented right...

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and here's the frame and the mount with the top arms attached...

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I'm just not totally sure about the braces... Here's the left-hand one, which I THINK I've got mounted right...

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But the right one has that little curve in it, so that it can clear the mule drive on the tractor I'm assuming... But the only way I could get it to fit was to bolt it to the INSIDE of the mount...

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So then I threw the gosh-darned heavy blade onto my skidoo dolly and rolled it over to the mount...

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got the bottom mount points hooked up,

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then flipped the blade up and did up the top arms, and voila!

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But boy I'll tell ya, I'm sure glad Cranky gave up his helper spring, 'cuz holy cow that blade is heavy! Even WITH the helper spring! Next up is getting carriage bolts for the wheel weights, mounting them up, bashing the rust off the chains and putting them on, possibly filling the tires with windshield washer fluid, and taking Ernie for a spin... Oh, and finding a slightly smaller clevis pin and hairpin clip for the lift rod, as I have a bolt in there right now... Oh, and 2 2"x1/2" bolts for the brace mount points...

The only thing that worries me, as I practice getting on and off Ernie, wow he's a monster of a machine compared to LittleTractor! I hope I can manage him! Well, slow and careful until I get the feel of him, I guess!
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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 04:24 AM

I'm glad Ernie got some much deserved attention. Blade looks good on him!

#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 04:25 AM

Thanks for posting this. You have given some great photos to anyone who needs to hook up one of these blades in the future. It's all there to see, just like in a manual, except you have better pictures!

#4 jd.rasentrac ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 05:01 AM

I'm glad Ernie got some much deserved attention. Blade looks good on him!


You're right, Kenny, but the story is very hard to read for me. But very interesting :thumbs:

#5 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 06:31 AM

Hmmmh... Did you folks notice that in pic. #2 he already spilled his beer in Ernie's face. Then in pic. #4, he tossed the empty beer cup under the tractor?

#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 06:38 AM

Ernie looks great with the blade and thanks for the detailed pictures.

BTW, what model is Ernie?

#7 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 07:19 AM

Ernie is either a '65 or '66 110. The bolt-on steps are the hint.


I hope you have all the little pieces that go inside the arms. If not, the blade will very hard to use. Here are a few pics of a 42 on my '66 for your reference:

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Edited by Trav1s, September 19, 2012 - 07:24 AM.

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#8 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 07:47 AM

Cookiemonster likes Ernie. Is that Bert next to him?
When I went to build a little tractor for my little property, the John Deere 110 was my second choice. Sometimes I regret when I see these.

#9 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 07:56 AM

I just noticed this - The right side bracket that goes back to the frame should be on the outside of the front mount and frame like your left side.

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Actually, you do need the piece you made in this picture. I will snap a pic of the actual piece later for you.

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Edited by Trav1s, September 19, 2012 - 07:58 AM.

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#10 littletractorguy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 11:33 AM

Ernie is either a '65 or '66 110. The bolt-on steps are the hint.


I hope you have all the little pieces that go inside the arms. If not, the blade will very hard to use. Here are a few pics of a 42 on my '66 for your reference:





Ya, I made sure to keep ALL the bushings, despite how rusty they are, because I had figured that there would be a whole lotta pivoting going on with this blade so the bushings are crucial to smooth operation... And geez you know, 1/2" bushings are hard to find! I should go through and actually thoroughly grease them all by hand before the snow flies, I'd suspect that whoever owned this blade before me didn't do that...

Yep Ernie IS a '66.

I just noticed this - The right side bracket that goes back to the frame should be on the outside of the front mount and frame like your left side.

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Actually, you do need the piece you made in this picture. I will snap a pic of the actual piece later for you.

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Ya, I have to go back and mess about with that right-hand bracket again... When I tried it on the outside, it would bind up against the mule drive on the tractor... So I dunno what the heck is happening with that... Yes, I'd be very curious to see what you'd use a piece of rod for... I HAD figured that there would be a draft rod going through the mount holes, just because every other implement uses one... Was my guess right, then? :) Of course, when I cut the first piece, I didn't anticipate having to put the top arms on, so its about an inch short on each side... Good thing I bought a 3 foot length! Of course, I had figured I'd replace the 7 inch bolts from the front of the blade with rods with nuts on them...

#11 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2012 - 05:12 PM

The threaded rod you have shown is not needed. Your top support arms coming from the blade mount to those holes, like you had it originally. As for the right frame mount brace, you have to remove the intermediate drive for the mower deck, from the tractor. The straight frame brace goes on the left side of the tractor like you have it, and the bent out brace goes on the right side. The frame braces, have a 30 degree bend in them, and the shorter end of these get mounted to the mounting bar, which is the piece hanging on the front of your tractor. The bottom support arms coming from the blade, mount to the outside of the mounting bar, and then both of the frame mounting braces, bolt to the outside of these. You do have the left one mounted correctly, just make the right one look just like it, and you'll be good to go!

Edited by johndeereelfman, September 19, 2012 - 06:34 PM.


#12 littletractorguy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 01:11 AM

So after an afternoon of working on Wally, I figured I'd better spend some time seeing about getting Ernie running... so this morning I ran out and bought a cheap brand new utility battery so I could treat Ernie right... So, put that battery in this morning, then went and worked on Wally... Came back to Ernie shortly before supper, after I'd run Wally's battery out...

What I figured was that I should clean out Ernie's sediment bowl, because I could see a lot of varnish in the bottom of it...

BIG mistake...

NOW i know why Deere has discontinued parts on those puppies... So I pulled it off and opened it up... The gasket at the top was pretty crunchy... But I cleaned it out anyway and put it back together. Hooked everything back together, went to turn over Ernie... No start!

Oh wait! It would help if I opened the fuel shutoff valve! Reach over and open it, watch as the fuel flows in, go to turn the key - HEY! Why is there gas dripping out of the sediment bowl?!? Stupid gasket! Shut the fuel shutoff off, pull the bowl, drip gas everywhere! Notice that there is still fuel dripping out of the top of the sediment bowl - CRUD! The shutoff doesn't actually, um, shut off! The next bunch of time I spend getting covered in gas, discovering that NONE of my sediment bowls (except for the one on Wally) actually hold gas without leaking, trying to figure out how to get the rest of the gas out of the leaking sediment bowl... My bright idea was to, once I'd gotten the LEAST leaky sediment bowl onto it (the top and gasket from Bror, whose valve didn't leak, the screen from Ernie) fire up Ernie and see if I could run the gas out of the line and bowl... Hopefully keeping ahead of the SLIGHTLY dripping sediment bowl... So, choke up, throttle up, turn the key, and Ernie caught right away.... And became one great big mosquito fogger! After 30 seconds, even with the big door open, the garage was so smoky I could barely see across it! I had thought Wally smoked! Well, he ain't got NOTHING on Ernie! DOH! So I shut Ernie down, and set about taking off the sediment bowl, and trying to carefully drain all the gas out of the tank into a handy container... But while trying to maneuver the container under the loosening sediment bowl, I caught things wrong and upset the container, spilling gas all over my face.... Sudden rush inside to do major eyeball rinse!

Okay, so, that put an end to my tractoring for the evening... an hour of showering and soaping later, I still smell like gas...

Soooo.... Now I've got problems... Wally still doesn't run yet..., Ernie smokes terribly... All my fuel systems are buggered...

I figure, despite the attractive vintageness of the sediment bowl, I'm going to be purchasing at least two of the replacement shutoff valves from Deere come Monday, and plumbing in a standard fuel filter. But what to do about the not running Wally and the smoking Ernie? Perhaps I should swap Ernie's carb over on to Wally to see what happens to Wally... At least then I could get a long enough run to see if Wally's engine is alright...

#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 04:31 AM

Might want to check Ernie's oil for fuel! That can cause him to smoke badly. I've had the gas in the face episode, no fun at all. Maybe today will bring better luck for you!
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#14 pigsitter OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 10:00 AM

I'm with Kenny first thing I'd do is check for fuel in Ernie's oil,with the fuel problems you've already run into it just may be the problem.Glad to see Ernie get some needed attention!
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#15 littletractorguy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 10:09 AM

Might want to check Ernie's oil for fuel! That can cause him to smoke badly. I've had the gas in the face episode, no fun at all. Maybe today will bring better luck for you!

I'm with Kenny first thing I'd do is check for fuel in Ernie's oil,with the fuel problems you've already run into it just may be the problem.Glad to see Ernie get some needed attention!


Um..... So I JUST changed Ernie's oil last week, and after sitting still for over a year, his old oil was, well, oily.... I dunno that there would be any fuel in the oil, because there hasn't been any fuel in Ernie for a year (I left his tank empty, all that was there was what would have been in the carb bowl (which was empty yesterday afternoon before I added any gas) and the fuel line. I'm wondering if the reverse is plausible... The previous owner of Ernie said he smoked a bit... Which I noticed the few times I've fired him up last year... the PO said Ernie probably needed a ring job. NOW he's been sitting for a year, AND I just started cranking him over in the past couple days as I checked out his electrical system. Is it possible that cranking him over brought great wobs of oil into the combustion chamber, and THAT'S whats burning off? Without getting his fuel system to stop leaking, I'm not too keen to run him long enough to burn that all off, so I won't know for sure for a while....




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