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Bolens Hitch Assembly


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#1 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2012 - 02:05 AM

I've been tossing around the idea of building a sulky for my Power Hoe (12A) and wondering what the hitch assembly looks like (if they made one for it) for attaching the sulky to the tractor. If someone would have pics of one it would be greatly appreciated.

#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2012 - 06:09 AM

I'm not sure if sulky's were used with the older Power Ho series.
I dont think I ever seen a sulky behind one or available in the brochure/manuals
Bruce should have an answer for you shortly.
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#3 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2012 - 08:51 AM

According to the info for the wire-wheeled sulky: http://gardentractor...s-riding-sulky/

There was a # 12A130 hitch available to attach the sulky to a model 12A tractor.

Sorry, but I can not find a pic of that hitch in any of my literature.

In the parts list of the 12A200 cultivator attachment for the 12A http://gardentractor...a-tractor-only/ there is a drawing of the cultivator hitch. .....This may give you an idea of what a hitch for a rear attachment would be like.
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#4 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2014 - 10:18 AM

I've decided to try and make a 12A130 hitch for the 12As. After looking at pics and staring at the tractor thinking I think k I've got it figured out.

The only thing I need to know yet is does the hitch on a sulky or trailer go over or inside the hitch on a 12B series?
IMG_20140419_091641_749.jpg IMG_20140419_091609_281.jpg

This is what I hope to get accomplished by the end of the day.
IMG_20140419_100006_390.jpg

#5 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2014 - 05:03 PM

Here's the first design I came up with. I went with 1 1/4" x 1/4" flat, because that's what it looked like in the pic. As you can see it doesn't clear the roller for the rear tool bar to ride on.


So I ended up starting over and went with 1 1/2" x 1/4" flat. Had to put a bend in it to clear the roller. I'm pleased with the way its turning out. Now I have to fab up a kicker to go up the attachment pin to hold it from tipping front to back when something is hooked to the hitch.
IMG_20140419_142754_915.jpg IMG_20140419_142812_795.jpg IMG_20140419_164028_913.jpg IMG_20140419_164044_691.jpg

#6 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2014 - 06:29 PM

Looking good

I believe the attachment hitch itself goes inside the hitch of the tractor.


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#7 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2014 - 08:05 PM

Looking good

I believe the attachment hitch itself goes inside the hitch of the tractor.

That's the conclusion I came up with after looking at a few pic of tractors with sulkies on.



#8 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2014 - 08:47 PM

If you can wait until tomorrow, I can take some pics of the sulky (and trailer) hitch from my 12BB01.
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#9 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2014 - 09:29 PM

If you can wait until tomorrow, I can take some pics of the sulky (and trailer) hitch from my 12BB01.

That would be great! I have a sulky that's been through the ringer and was thinking about getting it fixed up and need some dimensions of a couple things to rebuild it. I'll post a few pics of it tonight.


Edited by Nato77, April 19, 2014 - 09:31 PM.


#10 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2014 - 02:55 AM

Here's a pic of my sulky. If you could measure from the front cotterkey hole for the brake return spring to the front of the tongue where the hitch bolts on to.
IMG_20140420_023234_980.jpg

Then on the diagram numbers 6, 8, and 10 center to center on the holes, thickness and width.
IMG_20140420_023321_675.jpg

Also on the hitch piece how far the flat iron sticks off the hitch that bolt to the tongue. If you could get these measurements it would be great! I should be able to get it from there.

Thanks

Edited by Nato77, April 20, 2014 - 02:57 AM.


#11 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2014 - 09:07 PM

Here are some pics of my sulky, including a shot of the hitch assembly as attached to the Power Ho Deluxe. The hitch assembly is bolted to the underside of the channel frame.

The distance from the front cotter key hole (for the brake return spring) to the front end of the tongue is 31 1/2".

Parts 6, 8, & 10 on the parts diagram are all made out of 1/8" steel.

Part 6 is 1 1/2" wide and 14 5/8" long. the ends are rounded in a gentle arc. The C-C distance on the holes is 13 5/8". Note that the rear end of this brake link piece has a hole large enough to go over the axle shaft. It is held in place by a cotter pin outboard of the brake link.

Part 8 is the foot pedal. It is 3 1/2" wide, with the C-C distance for the bolt holes at 2 5/8". The top flat is 1 1/4" front to back. The front flat is 1 5/8" top to bottom. The included angle between them is probably somewhere around 120 degrees.

Part 10 is the brake pedal hinge. It too is 1 1/2" wide. The general shape of the piece is a very tall "L". The main part is 8 7/8" long with the foot of the "L" at 1" long. The C-C distance for the holes on the main part is 7 5/16". The bolt hole in the foot of the "L" is pretty much centered. The lower end of the brake pedal hinge has a hole diameter sufficient to slide over the round part of Part 17 (the slide assembly).

Note that the bolt that retains the upper ends of part 6 and part 10 is a though bolt, i.e it passes through all four ends right under the foot pedal.

If you are going to put the implement decals on yours, they go on the outsides of the brake link (Part 6).

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSCF0497.JPG
  • DSCF0498.JPG
  • DSCF0500.JPG
  • DSCF0501.JPG

Edited by LPBolens, April 21, 2014 - 10:15 PM.

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#12 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2014 - 10:21 PM

Thanks a bunch Doug!

Wasn't planning on working on the sulky tonight but I might have to start building pieces. I was going to modify a BCS sulky I have to go behind one of the 12As, but I think I'll spend the time on the Bolens sulky. I'm going to be needing one after this weekend.

 

Thanks again Doug :thumbs:



#13 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2014 - 02:46 AM

Made good progress tonight (or this morning) on the hitch and sulky. I just wish I could see a good pic of the hitch from the top to see how the brace/kicker is suppose to mount. But until one shows up somewhere it'll have to do.

The sulky is starting to take the form it once was. Need to go get some flat iron before I get any farther. I have a set of pneumatic tires at home that I think I'll put on to save my behind while using it. I have a set of wire spoke wheels to put on eventually but need to turn down the axle for them to fit. Not sure what to do there.

And now some pics.

IMG_20140422_023235_399.jpg IMG_20140422_023216_490.jpg IMG_20140422_023012_415.jpg IMG_20140422_023028_777.jpg
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#14 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2014 - 08:25 AM

If you have not already done so, you might want to consider making a modification to your hitch that would allow the sulky and the tractor to twist independently of each other. I included the picture of the sulky hitch on the 12BB01 so you could see that the part on the tractor is made to allow that piece to rotate. Then when the tractor is traveling over uneven ground, the sulky tongue does not get torqued.

 

Regarding the wheels: have you ever seen a sulky with OEM spoked wheels? I know the literature shows that, but I have yet to see one with spoked wheels. All of the ones I have seen have the solid, non-pneumatic wheels like mine.


Edited by LPBolens, April 22, 2014 - 08:29 AM.


#15 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2014 - 08:47 AM

If you have not already done so, you might want to consider making a modification to your hitch that would allow the sulky and the tractor to twist independently of each other. I included the picture of the sulky hitch on the 12BB01 so you could see that the part on the tractor is made to allow that piece to rotate. Then when the tractor is traveling over uneven ground, the sulky tongue does not get torqued.

 

Regarding the wheels: have you ever seen a sulky with OEM spoked wheels? I know the literature shows that, but I have yet to see one with spoked wheels. All of the ones I have seen have the solid, non-pneumatic wheels like mine.

 

The spoke wheels did not last too long. My dealer sheets show them being dropped in 1953 so they only had about a 2-3 year run with the spokes. The bulletin says the change was made to allow for a smoother ride and a more sturdier tire.

 

I agree with Doug, you need to make that hitch piviot!






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