Newbie! Building A Diesel Puller
Posted July 09, 2013 - 08:25 AM
It cant really be either. I pull in the stock class. So no turbos and im not sopposed to be messing with this stuff either.
I will try some timing and see how it goes.
Posted July 09, 2013 - 11:30 PM
All I can say is good luck with the build and hope you get power somewhere. Theres a lot of things you can do to pump some horses out of that little 2 cylinder but I cant be helping my fellow competitors too much
Posted July 14, 2013 - 07:04 PM
I know some guys have said to put a stiffer spring in the gov but i am having issues figuring out what spring i should put in there and where to get one.
Where do i buy a spring for it? Or do i just have to go to the hardware store and grab some random ones and try them out?
Posted July 21, 2013 - 12:10 AM
I couldnt even get it up to full rpms today with the sled hooked up to it.
I will start with the timing and go from there.
Posted July 21, 2013 - 09:53 PM
I put the injectors together wrong. The piece that pushes on the pintle got put in upside down and was letting the injectors hang open. Im assuming it was just dribbling out constantly and wouldnt build any pressure.
Posted July 22, 2013 - 08:51 PM
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Posted July 22, 2013 - 08:58 PM
This is all great stuff. Videos and all. I got nothing like it, but it sure is enjoyable.
Posted July 28, 2013 - 09:59 PM
Took first place and spun out i need more gear!
- olcowhand said thank you
Posted July 29, 2013 - 03:04 AM
It sounded pretty strong ! Get a stack on that rig to get some scavenging going on too. Good job!
Posted July 29, 2013 - 09:52 PM
I am looking at one for next years setup.
I really dont think i will be able to afford to buy a d722 to make max hp but with what the competition will be it should be a good starting point.
Otherwise I did find a few factory turbocharged D722-TE in arizona for $2200. Plus shipping.
Posted July 29, 2013 - 10:02 PM
Tractor looks good and pulls strong. Congratulations.
Posted July 29, 2013 - 10:46 PM
ihi makes a good turbo I know several people including myself run an ihi but not the same model. Its difficult to determine if it'll work or not because I've never met anyone building a 2 cylinder diesel. Everyone runs the 3 cylinders and up. The choice is up to you as far as what you want to put into it. Are there other diesels in your class? And you must realize that the 722 is going to weight more than what you have now its around 145lbs with oil in it so chances are your going to have to bump up to the next class because of it.
Posted July 30, 2013 - 06:12 AM
I know he is planning on using a 722 as those are the motors he has in the 2 he pulls for points.
The full on diesel class is a 1100lb class so i will have another 200lbs to work with so thats not a problem and i dont have to stay with garden tractor driveline either.
Posted July 30, 2013 - 06:13 AM
1100 LB. DIESEL CLASS: (Can Be Run Or Merged With Off Lawn Classes)
1. Any diesel engine less than 50 cubic inch, one turbo. More than 51 cubic inch, no turbo.
Maximum cubic inch 60, with 56-inch wheelbase. Fuel - diesel only. No propane or water injection.
2. Drive train may be automotive or garden tractor with tube frame. Exhaust must be vertical.
3. Tire size 26 x 12 x 12 cepek, pit bull or lawn tech.
4. Sheet metal must be garden tractor appearing. Must have steel or aluminum flywheel with safety shields.
5. One turbo only on 50 cubic inch/shielded 360 degrees with 0.060-inch thick steel. In exhaust after turbo
2 ¼ inch grade 5 bolts, no farther than one inch apart and 90 degrees from each other to form cross pattern.
6. Wheelie bars and functional kill switch with snuffer to kill air intake.
7. Approved helmet and functional fire extinguisher required. Fire suit and gloves recommended but optional.
Posted July 30, 2013 - 05:02 PM
Those are ok rules not the greatest because you can get cam work and injector work as well but that's where the water injection comes into play because when you start higher rpms and you start with pump timing your going to get a lot of heat out of it. Ive seen motors go up to 1500 degrees without the injection. 1800 and you start melting parts because of the excessive heat so they need to re write the rules for no internal mods unless noted. Im not sure what the cubic inch relates to horsepower wise but the highest were allowed to run is 26hp which is another series engine block. Also need to shield the front crankshaft pulley because there are only made of cast so they have the ability to explode at high rpms. Other than that the rules look ok.