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Newbie! Building A Diesel Puller


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#91 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2013 - 10:47 PM

None of us have that problem. Especially me since I have a 1250 and my frame is a little smaller than the 582. Let me tell you everything fits like a glove! Its all tucked nicely under the hood. Didn't have to modify anything for the rad to fit so you shouldn't either.



#92 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2013 - 06:08 AM

My motor must be a little farther forward than yours then.
My problem is the grille shell is basically the same size as the radiator so if i mounted it in the grille shell i wouldnt be able to get the cap off.
Hey that just gave me an idea.
I might be able to move the cap into the upper hose and then tuck the rad into the grille and not have to worry about the cap on the rad itself.
I will have to try when i get home from work tonight.

#93 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2013 - 07:18 AM

had the first pull last night and it ran very well. I ended up taking 7th out of 12 when it popped out of gear at the end. I didnt have time to build a shifter lock since I couldn't find one that I could just buy and throw on it quick. Today I will use a ratchet strap, and build one before the next pull on july 20th. I have a whole month to tinker with the tractor and make adjustments.

I am still a tad overweight (tractor not me :)) so I have to swap out my front wheels to something aluminum and smaller tires and I am also going to put a set of aluminum axle tubes on the rear end. That should get me 25 or so lbs I am hoping to loose another 10 or so myself and make weight.

 


Edited by cumminsmannow, June 15, 2013 - 07:19 AM.

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#94 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2013 - 11:14 AM

Not bad glad to see you finally made out with it. Kinda sounds like one of those ohv motors lol. Im not a fan of the 900lbs class it just seems that more can be done in a higher weight class but I definitely see room for improvement. The way I have my shifter forks set up I don't need to run a lock so it wont jump out of gear but when I have my old style fenders like what you have all I did was use a bolt to hold it in place and had 2 eye hooks on each side drilled into the fender pan where the shifter is and that's what I used. 



#95 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2013 - 11:39 AM

Yea i am debating jumping to 1100lb and throwing some weight around.

#96 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2013 - 06:49 PM

well i pulled on asphalt today and I am def down on power compared to the others in my class. So I will be staying in my class for now until I can get some more hp out of this thing.

My biggest problem now is the weight. I am actually 30lbs over for my class. I need to shave 30 out of the tractor by the 20th of july. I am planning on swapping the aluminum axle tubes with the ones in my 782 mower and Looking to pick up a set of front aluminum wheels and smaller tires. That should get me about 20 lbs. Then I am looking at switching over to a 1535 or so front grille and hood setup which is all plastic and should hopefully shave another 10lbs or so. I am also probably going to either build or buy if I can find one and aluminum front axle that will not only help me out in the weight dept but should also lower the front end a bit and give me a better angle on the hitch.

I am also trying my best at loosing weight myself. I could stand to loose another 50-60lbs on the driver's seat. :)

 



#97 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2013 - 01:30 PM

well in hopes of loosing some weight on the tractor itself I am in the process of swapping out the aluminum axle tubes off of my 782. I picked up a new set of axle seals, carrier gaskets, and rear diff gaskets, as well and another 2-1/2 gal jug of hytrans. to the tune of just over $100.00 at my local cub parts dealer.

next up on the chopping block is a different hood setup off of a 1110. From what I've read it should be all plastic and should save me about 20lbs I am figuring. It looks pretty similar to the 682's and should bolt right on after I paint it up in 682 colors and get some 682 decals made for it. I will eventually swap out the headlights to the older round ones with a set of 4" round led tail lights in grommets.

also I am still researching a set of front tires and wheels that will be as light as possible. I am just having problems finding 6" alum wheels that will fit my 1" spindles.

worst case I will have to switch to 3/4" spindles.



#98 lesmeister OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2013 - 10:33 PM

Well I am still in the planning stages of the diesel puller, but I am not sure what engine is the best to use? I have a friend who has a 3tne66 Yanmar diesel and a cub reared that I can use. I have been reading up on the diesel engines that other people are using and I don't know if I should try the combination is have access to or get a different engine to use. I plan on putting 1 turbo on it later down the road and I don't plan on having a lot of boost pressure as I want to keep it together and have fun with it. Any suggestions????

#99 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2013 - 05:24 AM

I dont know alot about the yanmar motors. But i would call columbus diesel and ask them about the model number and see what they say.
The rules we have dont allow me to run a turbo right now so i will be stuck with na power levels.
Good luck with the build. And the cub cast iron rear ends with fine spline axles and hardened shafts are more than enough for what we are doing.

#100 lesmeister OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2013 - 08:31 AM

The Yanmar is very similar to the d600 kubota engine, I think it has 2 hp difference between the two of them. As far as the reared, I have a panzer that is kinda rough that I could sacrifice. I have a cool idea for a transmission if I was running a Kohler. I never did like the idea of the drive system that they used. The rules are not a problem as a friend of mine has his own sled and track, the only rule we have is have fun. I see your point if you are going to pull with an association, and that may happen from time to time

#101 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2013 - 04:49 PM

For what your running right now just to get your feet wet is fine. I have a Midwest spool setup in mine you just might need a good clutch to handle the torque. And youll need to flip your carrier since diesels spin counter clockwise. Hope it goes well.



#102 lesmeister OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2013 - 08:07 PM

Thanks everyone for all of your help with this build, I hope to get some work done before winter but I don't want to start building without having a good idea of how I want it to look and how much performance i want or need. If you turn the engine around do you still have to flip the carrier? I will have to call Columbus diesel and see what they recommend on the fuel side of things and also about the turbo. I would like to build a tube frame, but if I decide to pull with an association is will need to get ahold of a rule book to see if it is legal. I have been working on widening a pair of wheels for the diesel, but that's as far as I have got. Thanks again for all of the advice to everyone

#103 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2013 - 10:22 PM

Its not a smart idea to run a driveshaft off the crank as the crank is only steel and can easily crack because of the torque. In all honesty building a diesel is all for fun but if you want to run NQS you need ALOT of cash wrapped into them. Ive heard some of them run 20,000$ and up just to be in the ball park. Columbus can tell you what you want to know but whats the fun in that? My dad and me learned on our own and what you can run and what you cant. We've done tried enough turbos to fill up a small shed. And countless rear ends breaking and drive lines and all those until we finally got what we wanted dialed in. So its a lot more fun to experiment on your own though my opinion is my own but I feel that's the best way you can learn and youll enjoy it just as well.



#104 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2013 - 05:50 AM

I got a bigger set of injectors and finally had the chance to install them in my kubota diesel and now the throttle is really lazy to get up to max rpm.
It isnt smoking that much more than stock so it isnt flooding it. What i am wondering is do you guys have to have the pump worked on like bigger plungers or something to get all the fuel you are putting thru. Or what do you do to get more fuel?
I have been told to put a tougher spring in the governor assembly but dont know where to get one. Also i was planning on taking a few ahims out of the pump to advance my timing to help out as well. What do you think?

#105 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2013 - 07:43 AM

 WHOO DOGGGY you are in for some work my friend . It's just not that easy to get more power , you need more fuel and more timing , and bigger valves with better springs too. I saw your vid and the smoke wasn't even black... not good .. your still lean or even worse out of time ... Get the timing correct so it will smoke black , thats a sign its burning the fuel at least . Also if it is an indirect injected diesel.... like the older Kubotas , your in for a rough time. Its going to be lazy .

 Work on your timing first, with stock stuff, then give it  more pump . If it can take more pump ? Then give it the injectors too. Fearing it's indirect injected, is really going to hinder performance. This is why all the new rigs are all direct injected now.


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