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Newbie! Building A Diesel Puller


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#16 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2012 - 06:13 PM

Ok i got the manual today and did some research on my motor. I found there the id numbers are on the block and i have some questions. I know it is a z482. But my issue is that the serial number breakdown is + or - 489290 for the n-tvcs or e-tvcs combustion chamber. Where the e is the newer ones.
My serial number is xw6807 I dont see anywhere that the manual says it should start with letters and the number seems really low.
Do i have a very early version or do i have something odd?
I would like to know for parts ordering purposes.
Are there any kubota mechanics out there that can help?

#17 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2012 - 06:42 PM

I just want to increase fuel slightly. Even under a hard pull, my D1005 hardly smokes at all. I think it could use just a tad more fuel delivery.


And because your just like me, when it gets a hard pull, we want to SEE BLACK SMOKE!! :laughingteeth:
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#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2012 - 06:50 PM

And because your just like me, when it gets a hard pull, we want to SEE BLACK SMOKE!! :laughingteeth:


Yep, gotsta see some black smoke a rollin! :thumbs:

#19 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2012 - 07:56 PM

Im not 100% with serial numbers. Is there a kubota dealership around your area or close to you? If so you can take it to them and they can help with what you need.
http://www.kubotaeng...ts/mnid_en.html

Try this website. Hopefully it should help clear things up.

#20 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2012 - 06:29 AM

Thank you. That helped alot.
The manual doesnt say anything about the letters but the letters tell me the build date. It was manufactured in nov '99. Then the short serial number.

#21 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2012 - 06:32 AM

And i do have a kubota dealer about 15 min away. I just havent gotten that far to need any parts yet. That will come this winter when i get the time to get this project going.

#22 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 05:24 PM

I got the motor out of the crate it was mounted to when i got it. Now it is ready for some major cleaning.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1349043822.611143.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1349043850.215454.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1349043870.693787.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1349043892.363858.jpg

#23 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 05:26 PM

Are there any aftermarket companies making gaskets or bearings for these kubota motors. Or am i stuck getting bent over at the dealer?

#24 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 08:48 PM

Are there any aftermarket companies making gaskets or bearings for these kubota motors. Or am i stuck getting bent over at the dealer?


I think you're stuck.......

#25 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 10:07 PM

yea thats what I am finding.... BUT I did find a place online to buy kubota parts cheaper than anywhere else. and it seems they have everything i need. it is called m&d mower and appliance. which seems odd to me but whatever! http://www.m-and-d.c...pair_parts.html
looks like I can get an upper and lower gasket kit from them for $170. which is about $50. less than my local kubota dealer quoted me.

Edited by cumminsmannow, September 30, 2012 - 10:09 PM.


#26 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2012 - 10:35 PM

Not a bad price for all that. Hopefully the rebuild goes well.

#27 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2012 - 11:56 AM

Well i picked up a couple if cheap bathroom scales today at the wallmart to use in this process.
I am not a little guy (275) so i need to be careful to make it in my 900 lb class.
The tractor as i bought it with a hydro trans but no deck weighs 450. The new motor is about 100. So im hoping that the fuel tank and radiator dont weigh much more than the parts i will be stripping off.
Also i am assuming there is no way the manual trans will weigh more than the hydro thats in it now.

#28 baerpath OFFLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2012 - 03:30 PM

Fuel tank can be a little one, ours for the four cylinder is about quart and that will work for 4 runs. An aluminum radiator can save weight over copper. We cool the motor with oil in place of the water, a small expansion tank and a trans cooler.
Duane

#29 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2012 - 06:26 PM

Fuel tank can be a little one, ours for the four cylinder is about quart and that will work for 4 runs. An aluminum radiator can save weight over copper. We cool the motor with oil in place of the water, a small expansion tank and a trans cooler.
Duane

You just put oil in the coolant system and let the stock water pump cycle it?
I was already looking to use an aluminum rad out of a 4wheeler so it would be pretty small. And yea i figured on about a quart sized fuel tank too also aluminum.

#30 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2012 - 06:27 PM

Well i picked up a couple if cheap bathroom scales today at the wallmart to use in this process.
I am not a little guy (275) so i need to be careful to make it in my 900 lb class.
The tractor as i bought it with a hydro trans but no deck weighs 450. The new motor is about 100. So im hoping that the fuel tank and radiator dont weigh much more than the parts i will be stripping off.
Also i am assuming there is no way the manual trans will weigh more than the hydro thats in it now.


900lbs? no way id even be able to go in that class lol im lucky i way 950 empty with me on it. The manual 3 speed is light than the hydro because of the pump.




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