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New To Me 1973 John Deere 140 H1


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#16 markdombroski OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2012 - 06:08 PM

I forgot the easiest and cheapest thing to do. Make sure your chute is smooth. Give it a new coat of paint on the inside, (if needed) and wax it.


That makes good sense. Wax makes the snow fly!

#17 markdombroski OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2012 - 06:11 PM

Also, on a different note this John Deere 140 lurches forward when you engage the hydro. It is so sensitive that you have to be very careful or you will be doing wheelies. I imagine that the control valve or something needs some adjustment. Additionally, the hydro lever creeps back towards neutral when you let go of the lever. Probably another adjustment.

I have the service manual and will be looking through it for answer. However I am open to your feedback on this as well.

- Mark

#18 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2012 - 09:26 PM

Hi Travis, thanks for the info, it helps me understand. I would be glad to receive a picture of yours as reference. On the directional control, the rod doesn't rotate. I think something is rusted or corroded. I need to do some dismantling and lubricating. Other than that, it probably will work. I also saw a youtube video of thrower where the manual control was replaced with a hydraulic rotation control. He used the second hydraulic port on his 318 to control the snow thrower chute direction. It was very cool.


Got some free time tomorrow evening so I can snap some pics for you.

For now here are a few from last fall. Not sure if they will help or not.

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Lowly 120 ready for snow last fall. Looks a bit like your 140
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Edited by Trav1s, September 17, 2012 - 09:32 PM.

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#19 markdombroski OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2012 - 09:43 AM

Got some free time tomorrow evening so I can snap some pics for you.

For now here are a few from last fall. Not sure if they will help or not.

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Lowly 120 ready for snow last fall. Looks a bit like your 140
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Hi Travis, great pictures. I like the new hoses with the 90 degree elbows. I was noticing that the regular straight hoses tend to rub against the chute cable and pulley. Did you modify that bracket that holds the rod against that tractor chassis. It looks like you have some new bolts and a different type mounting kit?

#20 markdombroski OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2012 - 09:52 AM

Also, on a different note this John Deere 140 lurches forward when you engage the hydro. It is so sensitive that you have to be very careful or you will be doing wheelies. I imagine that the control valve or something needs some adjustment. Additionally, the hydro lever creeps back towards neutral when you let go of the lever. Probably another adjustment.

I have the service manual and will be looking through it for answer. However I am open to your feedback on this as well.

- Mark


I took a look at the service manual. It looks like there is a friction brake that needs adjusting which prevents the lever from creeping back towards the neutral position. Additionally, there are some other adjustments that seem to be in order as well.

Regarding the lever sensitivity issue, it also may be an adjustment or perhaps a sticky relief valve.

#21 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2012 - 10:47 AM

Hi Travis, great pictures. I like the new hoses with the 90 degree elbows. I was noticing that the regular straight hoses tend to rub against the chute cable and pulley. Did you modify that bracket that holds the rod against that tractor chassis. It looks like you have some new bolts and a different type mounting kit?


Those hoses were crafted by the local Napa store and were the result of a fair amount of conversation between myself and the owner. I though this would be cheaper than the Deere hoses but that was not the case. :( That being said, they are very easy to install and do not rub like the factory pieces. If I had to do it again I might have considered 45 degree elbows instead of the 90s.

As for the bracket, my blower was originally used on a 318 and the mounting bracket is different for the 120/140. Since I am holding out for a 300 series for winter duties, I did not want to modify the tractor or bracket. I ended up using two new carriage bolts (inserted from the inside of the pedestal) and a pair of upper shock absorber bushings that I had in a box of misc. parts between the pedestal and the bracket. This keeps the mount tight, prevents it from scratching the tractor, and provides additional isolation. Not pretty but functional and easy to install/remove.

I am not a purist when it comes to my equipment and sometimes function comes before form.

Edited by Trav1s, September 18, 2012 - 10:51 AM.


#22 Delmar ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2013 - 06:21 PM

Did you find a cab for your 140 Mark?


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#23 markdombroski OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2013 - 08:26 PM

Hey James, I have not yet found a cab. Not many out here in Seattle, because it doesn't snow very much. I did see one for a JD 300 series, but don't think it fits the 140.

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#24 Delmar ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2013 - 08:56 PM

I picked up a 317 awhile back that had a snowblower and a cab on it.  I sold the cab to a gentleman that wanted it for his 140. He said it would bolt right up to it.



#25 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2013 - 09:13 PM

Mark, Very nice set up you have there.

 

The fender pan on the 140 & 317 are almost the same and the cabs should bolt right up.






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