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Just Bought A Jd 318, Now The Fun Begins?

starter mower deck

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#1 Bigfoot OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 01:35 PM

Hello men, This is my first post,
Well I got her home and started to check it all out and found the starter don't engage all the time, although the solenoid clicks! Problem is I can't get at the solenoid or starter without moving the engine. Also I've found there are no grease fittings on the mower deck spindles. Wonder why JD didn't think of that? The power steering cylinder is leaking Little from the front seal, but I can live with that I guess!
The previous owner kept it outside and it looks like squirrels and mice were the last residents to occupy the 318.
Has anyone ever changed the starter on this model? I also noticed that JD has a newer wiring kit for this kind of starter problem, but until I check the solenoid and starter, I'll just put that on the back burner for now.

#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 01:45 PM

Welcome! :wave: Glad to have you join in! One of the JD gurus should be along shortly!

#3 jd.rasentrac ONLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 01:48 PM

Hi bigfoot and congratulations. If the starter doesn't work, check the battery first. Maybe you have to reload it. If that doesn't work, we´ll try to analyse the problem step by step.

Edit: here at JDPC you can find the partlist for your 318. Therefore you only have to change the language and then you must put 318 in the window "model search".

Edited by jd.rasentrac, September 14, 2012 - 01:56 PM.


#4 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 02:48 PM

Bigfoot,welcome to the forum.Glad to have you with us.

#5 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 02:49 PM

The deck spindles use sealed bearings, no greasing necessary. Pull the deck off, remove the belt, and the cover, and spin one blade at a time. If it feels rough, or makes noise, tear it apart and replace the bearings on the bad spindle/s. Just a bit of grease in between parts during re-assembly is necessary.

This is for the 50" deck:

1 P48362 LOCK NUT 1
2 AM39954 SHEAVE 1
AM116141 SHEAVE 1 (OPTIONAL) (INCREASES BLADE TIP SPEED APPROX. 10 PERCENT FOR IMPROVED CUTTING QUALITY)
3 24H1184 WASHER 1 25/32" X 1-1/4" X 0.105"
4 26H77 SHAFT KEY 1 3/16" X 3/4"
5 JD9296 BALL BEARING 2
6 03H2126 BOLT 3 5/16" X 1-1/8"
14H785 NUT 3 5/16"
7 M73515 SPACER 1 (SUB FOR M45121)
8 24H1887 WASHER 3 11/32" X 1" X 0.134"
KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
9 M45273 HUB 1 (SUB FOR AM107500)
10 J2376M SNAP RING 2
11 AM32955 HUB 1
12 AM39918 SHAFT 1
13 AM39956 SPINDLE 1 CENTER

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#6 Wheel Horse Kid OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 04:36 PM

How about some pics of your new tractor???

#7 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 05:19 PM

Hi, Bigfoot. I had an STX38 that had a similar problem. Sometimes the solenoid would click & it would start, others it would click but there wasn't enough juice to turn the engine, still others the solenoid wouldn't even click. It acted like the battery was dead or dying. The problem was in the safety interlock circuit. The switches all corrode & build up resistance over time. The result is a low voltage at the solenoid. The good news is that there is a mod to fix that.

http://gardentractor...138-wont-start/

#8 Gary400 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 06:17 PM

you have to pull the engine to get the starter out . if it works some of the time and when it doesnt you hear the solenoid than the starter may be fine . the solenoid is under the battery tray i believe . pulling that starter would be the verrrrrrrry last thing id do .

Edited by Gary400, September 14, 2012 - 06:19 PM.


#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 07:15 PM

Congrats on the 318. It could be that the ignition switch is faulty or some other interlock switch or even the wiring has a bad connection somewhere that is keeping the solenoid from getting enough voltage to operate. Heres a schematic that may help.


318 electrical schematic.png

#10 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 08:03 PM

Welcome Bigfoot to GTtalk , My 318 was doing the same thing one time and I started taking things off to " replace the starter " until I was taking the ground strap bolt on the head the bolt was corroded tight but wasn't making a good connection :bash: at least I didn't get the whole engine off lol , Al

#11 Bigfoot OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 08:10 PM

Hello gentlemen, I looked at the starter, as much of it as I could, which wasn't much. Being unfamiliar with the wiring and all, that is, I pulled the engine out set it on the work bench and removed the starter. Put it into my vice and hooked a battery up to the solenoid.
Well to make a long story with the aches and pains short, it worked perfect after trying it 30-40 times sigh :-( So you men were right, it's in the wiring, switches, etc. I read about a bulletin, put out by John Deere, where they make a wiring kit which is supposed to eliminate this problem. seems there isn't enough voltage getting to the solinoid and starter to spin it. Don't know if this is the case, but I'll check this out by testing the voltage drop at different points. Thanks you for the wiring diagram! and for all the input, this forum is great!!

#12 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 11:18 PM

Welcome Bigfoot. Glad you like the forum. You will love the 318. Glad you joined.

#13 Bigfoot OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2012 - 02:06 PM

Love this JD 318, it has a few quirks but so do I. I've put the engine back in today and I'm installing the relay kit part number from John Deere AM107421 to eliminate the no start conditions. The mower deck had some bad blades in it, one of which was bent like a hump back camel. I've ordered 3 new blades, with some paint she should be one handsome machine, like they've said, nothing runs like a deere.

#14 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2012 - 06:39 PM

Does the relay wiring kit look like the mod I mentioned earlier?

#15 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2012 - 07:36 PM

Does the relay wiring kit look like the mod I mentioned earlier?


JD's kit is virtually the same as the relay 'fix' you alluded to earlier. If you have wire and terminals laying around, the relay (common auto part) is about 4 or 5 bucks. The JD kit is $25? or so. If you have to buy wire, fuse and holder, and terminals, the JD kit is barely more expensive than buying all the parts. What the homebrew kit does is put a full 12 volts to the solenoid. It still gets the signal to start from the ignition, but doesn't rely on it for the power that has been run through neutral safety switch, the seat safety switch, the brake interlock, and the ignition. However, all of those safeties need to be in working order (or bypassed correctly) in order for the relay trick to work.
  • New.Canadian.DB.Owner said thank you





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