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#16 pulltilbroke OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2010 - 03:18 PM

in the last 8 years I have not sween a non-Cub ever win a class; some did show or place.


Where I pull I have seen a lot of non Cub tractors win and place. Is the Cub a better choice sure, is there more parts available for Cubs, you bet but me personally don't want a tractor that looks like everyone elses, thats all ya see around here is Cubs and JD's and everyone and the brother has one. I do know My old Bolens G14 stomped a lot of Cubs and everything else for that matter when I was pullin it.

I'm pretty sure George just wants to get his feet wet in pulling in a stock class and his Massey will do just fine

#17 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2010 - 03:23 PM

I would eventually like to own a cub but I don't think I will pull with it because I would probably restore it. My 12 variable speed I have now is the perfect candidate because I want a hydro to restore and if I would get serious in the pulling I can maybe modify the 12 to work better. I need to get familiar with the rules and see what you can and can't do.

#18 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2010 - 10:50 PM

Hello guys Just thought Id put in My Two Cents First a belt drive will pull just as good as a shaft drive if its set up right. Ive seen belt drives take the cake more than once over a bunch of cubs you just have to get it weighted right keep the belts from slipping and keep traction. The cub guys will dicourage you from belt drives because they cant stand to get beat by one. Anyone can go out and build a cub it take some engineering to build a belt drive. They make everything under the sun for cubs but belt drives however they do not though there is some tricks and some tips out there for belt drives you just have to do some digging. Here at my local pulls the beltdrives are always competitive and normally atleast 2 are in the top five and atleats 1 in the top Three. again setup is key the tractor must be well ballanced weight wise aswell as good tight belts or belt. And remeber Leverage is a ood thing. The most important thing about it isnt winning or loosing anyway its HAVING FUN. Believe Me Theres Plenty Of Fun To Go Around. Thanks

#19 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2010 - 06:45 AM

I gave it a try for the first time with my Cub 147. I loved it and now am trying to pull as often as I can. I would like to try the Massey MF12G at pulling also but I have some work to do on the motor first. I plan on running just the stock class for a long time as I can't afford to run the higher classes.

#20 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2010 - 09:08 AM

Buy an old Cub Cadet and start small. Then spend thousands and slowly go broke.


That's why I never got into pulling! Trying to keep up competitive wise is a money pit affair. Now if you could start your own pulling association, then have a truly bone stock class, then that I would/could enjoy getting into it.

#21 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2010 - 04:46 PM

I am glad to see that you liked it and Im also glad to see that your going to try to pull your Massey there are some things you can do to make them work just as good as the cubs. There are ways of making them posi trac by not welding up the spider gears in the final drive. There is also many other tricks like building a 7710 to be a 30CID monster on a very very low budget of a couple hundred bucks. The most important and most valueable thing however is keeping the belt tight and from slipping aswell as ballancing out the tractor well. An easy way to ballance your tractor is to weld a small bracket that hangs down free from every thing on each side of the tractor make a 3/8 in whole on each one take an old set of jack stands and put a bracket on the center of each stand( the part that moves up and down on the top of it. Then jack the tractor up to the point that the rear wheels may be 1 to 2in off of the ground slide in the jack stands bracket to the bracket on the tractor and slide in a 3/8 in bolt put on a nut but leave it loose so that the tractor can teeter back and forth then take the jack out from under the tractor and put on just enough weight to ballance out the fron and rear so that there is the same amout of clearance between the ground and fornt and rear tires. That is a ballancing basic once you get that done you just add weight accordingly to track conditions and the tendenciys of your tractor. By ballancing it out like that you make it much more prdictable and very much easier to control. GT pulling is like large tractor pulling just scaled down.
And remember dont modify the frame to fit the hood modify the hood to fit the frame its much easier that way and the end result is much better.


Olcowhand I did manage to find a club where you could pull after talking to you yesterday I did some researching last night and found grayson co. Ky pullers. They have a stock class that may be upto snuff for you stock chassis stock locations for every thing. Basically all you have to do to be able to pull is bolt on an adjustable hitch and a set of wheelie bars and your good get up with me and Ill get you more info if your interested.

P.S. I will try to post some dates of local pulls here in KY as well as sourrounding areas as Im able or if I remember Thanks

#22 broken2 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2010 - 04:41 PM

I'm going to try to get to this pull this weekend. I'd like to set up one of my gt's for pulling this winter and enter it in a few pulls next year. I'm gonna try to get to a few more pulls this summer to get a better idea of what's involved. If I go this weekend I'll get some pic's.


New York State Fairgrounds Syracuse, NY
Syracuse National Car Show July 16, 17, & 18 2010
Garden Tractor Pull Sunday July, 18 2010

Presented by Central New York Garden Tractors Pullers Inc.
Sign up starts 8:00am
Pull starts 11:00am
Gates open from 8:00am-10:30am Sunday only

2 Persons/Tractor FREE Enter at Gate 7
After 10:30am you will have to pay at the gate to get in.
“NO EXCEPTIONS”

Gate prices
$17 13yrs and older
$8 6-12 yrs of age

Advance Discount tickets available @ any Nice n Easy Convenient stores
$12, 13yrs and older
$6 6-12 years of age


All CNY, Brookfield, Eagle and Western NY classes will be offered
All CNYGTP Inc Safety & Tech Rules Apply

*V8 Modified Classes will be 1850lbs*

Entry Fees
Exhibition- $5/hook - no payback
Stock off the Lawn- $8/hook - Ribbons awarded
All other classes- $10/hook - Prize Money awarded

All Pullers MUST be member of CNYGTPA Inc. to Participate
Annual Membership One Day Event Membership
Adult Competing $30 $15
Minor Competing $25 $10
Associate Member $25 $10
(non voting)
Family $45 $20


For more information or questions regarding the pull,
Contact Greg Hurley (315) 597-8950 Cell (315) 871-9078

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#23 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2010 - 08:47 PM

Thats a good idea thats a great way to gain Ideas as well as insight and it will also not only give you some experience but it will give you an Idea of what the tracks and conditions are like in the club you will be pulling with. Be very very close to the rules as far as your build goes the first few times you go as they will be watching you extra close and nit picking every thing. As you get some time and credibility with the judges then you can get away with a little more as they will not be watching you as close and they will let you by with more. Im not saying to cheat Im just saying then you can use the loop wholes and bend the rules a little you know. What are you pulling with a massey possibly or something else?

#24 broken2 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2010 - 09:41 PM

I will be pulling with a massey mf12g. I haven't decided which one yet, I have 4 of them. I already have one that I added 26x12x12's, a 2nd spring to the clutch and a 1/4 spring to the rear tensioner pulley. I didn't do this with tractor pulling in mind. I did it to pull fire wood out of the woods, pull a plow and push a dozer blade. This tractor pulls hard and I don't have any problems with belts slipping. Regardless of how well I do at the tractor pulls I know it will be fun pulling and fine tuning my set-up. Also just going to the events, talking with the other pullers, seeing their tractors and watching them pull.

DSC01379.jpg

#25 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2010 - 08:53 AM

I will be pulling with a massey mf12g. I haven't decided which one yet, I have 4 of them. I already have one that I added 26x12x12's, a 2nd spring to the clutch and a 1/4 spring to the rear tensioner pulley. I didn't do this with tractor pulling in mind. I did it to pull fire wood out of the woods, pull a plow and push a dozer blade. This tractor pulls hard and I don't have any problems with belts slipping. Regardless of how well I do at the tractor pulls I know it will be fun pulling and fine tuning my set-up. Also just going to the events, talking with the other pullers, seeing their tractors and watching them pull.

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You know Dan, if you are going to be pulling with the Massey 12g maybe that is what I will use too and we can compare notes.

#26 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2010 - 08:57 AM

I wouldnt mind trying to pull with my MTD 990 after I get it done. Will have to get some ag tires for sure since I think most places dont allow chains.

#27 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2010 - 09:15 AM

I wouldnt mind trying to pull with my MTD 990 after I get it done. Will have to get some ag tires for sure since I think most places dont allow chains.


You might be surprised though too that turf tires do better then ags depending on the dirt and track.

#28 onan302 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2010 - 12:22 AM

Do it with your massey! i barely see those pull as you said. Pull at Fawn Grove, there rules are not strict, unless you have serious engine/frame/transmission modifications. but more the less you can get away with alot depending on the rules. If i were you i would check to see if theres more than one slot for where your governor rod, or governor spring attaches to. you just might be able to turn a higher rpm without blowing up the engine. Then, i would raise the hitch. a higher center balance with the hitch helps pulling, undoubtfully as it puts more weight down on the rear, but i wouldnt completly get rid of the stock hitch, if your planninhg on pulling at a place that lays the law on modifications and little heavier. An adjustable hitch is the better, more convienet option. Then, lower the air pressure in your tires, as a little looseness, and play in the rubber gets a better bite into the ground. wheel weights, or any type of weights help, depending on what class you run in, and what type of transmission you have. and finnally, if you want to remove the muffler, and put a stack, or on open exghaust, try not to make it short and straight out of the block. you dont want to blow anything up. So make the pipe bend in a couple places if you have to. This just helps the engine have a little backpressure to blow the piston back down. This is important for your engine to maintain its power and torque, while the open exghaust may gain you a horsepower or two.

#29 Brent OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2010 - 08:15 PM

A good website for rules and pulls is www.easterngardentractorpulling.com. The main things needed for the "stock" class are wheelie bars, kill switch, hitch heigth, weight, and engine RPM. I'd like to see some different tractors out there pulling. I started out in the fun pull at the Chambersburg PA tractor show. Its good to start cheap, and you don't always need a big engine. I'm able to be competetive with 10 hp Cub.

#30 Brent OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2010 - 08:33 PM

I need to try and find out more information on who runs the local pulling at Williams Grove. I know the cubs seem to do pretty good but I want to try it with my massey.


Pastor Paul Maulfair of the Garden Chapel outreach (www.gardenchapel.org) does alot there, and Harry Barrick does a lot with the Williams Grove show his phone number is 717 776 5762. Harry is also the guy for anything Oliver tractor related, or tires.




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