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Transaxle Problems On The 850 - Help, Please!

bolens 850 transaxle transmission

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41 replies to this topic

#31 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 05:05 PM

We have a stack of those a little cheaper.
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#32 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 05:13 PM

Wow, take a look at the guys other listings. His prices are pretty steep and shipping is about double the actual cost! Have you checked with Bob (bhts) to see if he has any?

Here's a few pictures of the breather assembly .
The first pic is of my NOS one I got stashed away :D

Attached Thumbnails

  • breather 030.JPG
  • breather 031.JPG

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#33 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 05:14 PM

Looks like bob beat me to posting while I was waiting for pics to upload :D

#34 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 05:32 PM

Wow, take a look at the guys other listings. His prices are pretty steep and shipping is about double the actual cost! Have you checked with Bob (bhts) to see if he has any?

Here's a few pictures of the breather assembly .
The first pic is of my NOS one I got stashed away :D


LOL have that also Brian
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#35 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 08:09 PM

Here's a few pictures of the breather assembly .
The first pic is of my NOS one I got stashed away :D


Nice, Brian! So, the "breather" just looks like a fairly porus cork stopper or something that jams into that hole? Yeah, mine is just WIDE OPEN there!! Could that be a spot where water is getting in then, even though the hole points down? I suppose moisture from the air will get in there over time...

Of course, I just bought some gasket material and attempted to try and make my own. (Meaning that I can't return the material now that it is all cut up.) It didn't come out TOO bad for a first try at cutting my own gasket, but IDK if it will actually SEAL or not, lol... I actually found out that the bottom gasket stayed in place on the bottom of the case (not to the access plate itself) and looks actually in decent shape. I'm wondering if I can just leave it as it is and put it back together and it will hold? It doesn't look that old even. I'm wondering if it was replaced at some point? The upper gasket is definitely old though and falling apart, so that has to be replaced!

How much do those breathers usually run? Is there anything else I'm missing here? lol. I appreciate all of the help with this! :thumbs:

I managed to try and grind down some of the burrs off of the 1st gear tonight in a break in the rain. I didn't want to get TOO happy with the Dremel though and risk further damage to the gear... I took some quick pics of it and then tried to wash off all of the metal bits with more PB Blaster and some canned air. I'm almost through a whole can of PB Blaster now just on spraying down the inside of the transaxle case! I sure HOPE that it is all clean in there. I think at this point, I'm going to just leave it as it is, put the shift fork in it, and call it a day. It has been idle for too long now and I have to get it running soon to mow the lawn with all of this rain we've been having, lol! I suppose I can try to stock-pile some parts for it so that if it decides to give me any more problems in the future, I have everything I need ready to go to fix it the right way. But it should be good enough for now, I'd hope!

#36 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 10:16 PM

Here's some pics from tonight. These were my working conditions after I bought a work light from Harbor Freight earlier today to shed some light on the subject. The first pic was without the flash, so you can get a sense of the ambiance, the second was with the flash so you can see everything:

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So anyways, here is what I ended up doing to the 1st gear in the transaxle with the cordless Dremel and a very small grinding wheel:

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Here is what the gears look like when they are meshed together:

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I hope this little bit of de-burring will help the gear changes. I'm thinking the biggest help will be the new shift fork and new, tight hardware to hold the shifter in place. At least I'm HOPING these will improve the ease of shifting the old Bolens, or else I'll have felt like I wasted a lot of time on this for nothing! I know it looks bad from these pics with the metal shavings everywhere in my transaxle case, but I thoroughly flushed them all out with a can of PB Blaster after I took these photos. :smilewink:

Edited by MailmAn, September 28, 2012 - 10:25 PM.


#37 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 07:52 AM

Nice, Brian! So, the "breather" just looks like a fairly porus cork stopper or something that jams into that hole? Yeah, mine is just WIDE OPEN there!! Could that be a spot where water is getting in then, even though the hole points down? I suppose moisture from the air will get in there over time...


Yes, if that was open and left outside thats probably where the majority of the water came from over time.

I actually found out that the bottom gasket stayed in place on the bottom of the case (not to the access plate itself) and looks actually in decent shape. I'm wondering if I can just leave it as it is and put it back together and it will hold? It doesn't look that old even. I'm wondering if it was replaced at some point? The upper gasket is definitely old though and falling apart, so that has to be replaced!
How much do those breathers usually run? Is there anything else I'm missing here? lol. I appreciate all of the help with this! :thumbs:


Many times the old gaskets can be reused.
I would imagine the breathers would only be around $1-$2
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#38 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 01:44 PM

The gear teeth look much better now !! :thumbs:

The breather is actually porous (sintered) bronze, not cork. ....It's purpose is to prevent pressure build-up (which causes leaks) in the transaxle.

If you are going to re-use the lower gasket, a think smear of sealant on the face of the gasket will help prevent a leak. ......Most gaskets rely on compression to make a seal. ....Once they are compressed, they usually do not return to their original state.
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#39 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2012 - 08:52 AM

Yeah!!! I got my parts in the mail yesterday to finish putting the 850 back together! Here is a look at what I got from Bob:

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I got two upper case gaskets (so I have an extra just in case) as well as two breathers, a lower gasket (in case I need it if the old one won't seal), and some clevis pins.
I'm probably not going to keep the pins though as they don't seem like the right ones for my tractor, but more on that later... Here is a close-up of the breather:

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Gotta love the NOS packaging, right?

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Now, about the clevis pins, Bob sent me 2 longer ones and 2 shorter ones. The shorter ones look totally wrong to me, but the long ones look almost right, despite being a bit longer than the ones I have that are correct for my tractor. The 2 pins I have already (that I got from Farmersville) are the ones in the pictures with the cotterpins in them. The other 4 are the ones that Bob just sent me:

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Here are close-up shots of just the 2 clevis pins that I already have that fit my tractor/deck:

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So, you can see that the ones I just got aren't the same ones. The longer ones MIGHT work, but at the same time they might also hit other parts under the deck and interfere with the deck operation (especially raising and lowering).

But, in any event, for right now (after it dries out a bit this morning), it's time to try and get the transaxle back together and going again! Wish me luck that it all works!


(Oh, and ONE other aside as well, but since it has been raining here a lot this week and the transaxle case has been left wide open, it looks like there is some light surface rust that has started to develop on the gears and shafts in the transaxle where water dropplets seeped through the cover I had over the tractor. [Of course, not quite sure why the tractor cover isn't waterproof and the water leaches through, but that's another story...] I'm just curious if this surface rust will be an issue and I should try to get it off, or will the gear oil lubricate everything and take care of the rust once I get it running? How would I go about cleaning it if I should go that route? Just spray it with some more penetrating oil and maybe wipe it down?)

Edited by MailmAn, October 05, 2012 - 08:57 AM.


#40 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2012 - 09:11 AM

Those new clevis pins you just got from Bob were not meant for the deck.
The ones for your deck should be the smaller ones with a tapered end (1713553) (The ones pictured from Farmersville are correct)
The longer ones were for the front plow, tiller and snow casters and were part number (1713501)

I wouldn't think minor surface rust would be a problem but just to be safe I would try and clean it /wipe it down.
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#41 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2012 - 09:30 AM

Glad you got the parts. Well we tried on the pins. Now that i see what you have send those back and i can send you the other ones we talked about that was shorter.
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#42 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2012 - 09:32 AM

The longer ones were for the front plow, tiller and snow casters and were part number (1713501)


Well, if I ever do get another snow caster or manage to get the parts to get the one I have all together, I might need those longer pins then to mount it! I just figured Bolens might have used the same pins to mount the deck to mount other attachments as well and not have specific pins for each attachment. Then you only need 4 pins to mount any attachment to your tractor and they would be all interchangeable. Oh well, I guess that is wishing for too much from engineers? lol...

Edited by MailmAn, October 05, 2012 - 09:33 AM.






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