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Kohler K241 Help With Ignition And Lp Kit


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#16 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 12:45 PM

Try turning the tank off and very slowly open the tank valve, the lock in the tank is shutting it off.
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Posted September 12, 2012 - 01:16 PM

Is the electric shut off working?
The hole is big enough.
The button is to stop the engine.
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#18 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 02:18 PM

Try turning the tank off and very slowly open the tank valve, the lock in the tank is shutting it off.

Thanks. Well, that was kind of the problem. What was happening is that the pressure from the tank doesn't allow the electric shut-off to open under it's own power. If you activate the electric shut-off first, then it will come on. It wasn't providing enough gas, so I drilled out the hole just a little, and now it seems to have plenty of flow... Maybe too much. I may have to replace that piece with another one from where I got it. There seems to be some plastic come out when you drill it as well... very odd.

So, I got it running. It's doing a lot of surging when I open up the gas valve a lot. If I let it down to almost closed, it will run very smooth, but won't have enough power to open up the throttle. Right in the middle is a spot where it runs half decent. I'm wondering if me drilling out the gas valve screwed up the works. Also, it doesn't seem like the adjustment screw on the regulator is really doing anything... I can run it way in or way out and nothing really seems to change. And it is generating 120 volts!!!

#19 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 02:37 PM

I believe the button is for stopping the motor. About the only way I know to advance the timing would be close the point gap a bit, but I don't how much. It may make it harder to start.


I think this is backwards. Opening the points should advance the timing.

I had another thought too but not sure if applies here. When you run a forklift on LPG, you send liquid to the regulator and it vaporizes in the manifold. I know the tanks are made different for them than a BBQ tank. Since this was set up for natural gas, I'm not sure what you have is the same or not.
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#20 Amigatec ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 04:20 PM

I think this is backwards. Opening the points should advance the timing.

I had another thought too but not sure if applies here. When you run a forklift on LPG, you send liquid to the regulator and it vaporizes in the manifold. I know the tanks are made different for them than a BBQ tank. Since this was set up for natural gas, I'm not sure what you have is the same or not.


If you don't have a heat source he vaporizer will freeze up. On my generator you can set it up for LPG but you have to run vapor to it.

#21 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 06:08 PM

Okay. I'm not sure what a little of that means, but I think I have a plan of action. I watched a couple of you tube videos and found:

(1) how my garrettson regulator works. It's an on-demand system that opens a valve when there is a vacuum drawn in the ring around the intake. The more you open the throttle (butterfly) the more the vacuum and the more gas comes in. That would explain to me how it gets more lp when it needs it. I can tell my garrettson regulator is not working well, and there is a rebuild kit that may take care of it. I want to pop it apart first to find out.

(2) that other people who use the garrettson system use another regulator in the system. Most have just a standard gas grill one, but I think I"m going to get one of the 0-30 psi adjustable ones and be done with it no matter what. Only a few extra bucks.

Also, I got together my parts for a gas tank, so I'm going to get started on trying to get it going on gasoline as a second fuel. Can you guys tell me which one of the 2 screws in this picture is idle mixture and which one is full throttle mixture?
IMG-20120912-00198.jpg
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#22 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 06:58 PM

When running on propane the gas carb acts as a throttle body only. Don't use the choke, it will not run right. The vacuum created in the carb will open the propane mixer and let the fuel in. There may be doors or a diafram on the mixer. The mixer on my 350 was a Century unit it was square and used doors hooked to a bell crank that operated a cone that slid in and out of a funnel to add the fuel to the motor. Most of the units I worked were Impco units they were round and had a diafram with a needle valve on the bottom that worked up and down. These were mounted inside a special air cleaner, the only connection to the engine was the long bolt used to hold the air cleaner on. There was a cable running from the dash to the mixer to hold it in he full open position when running on gas.

To go to gas, you will need to open the doors or diafram up so it does act like a choke. And of course turn on the fuel you using and turn off the fuel you at not. When going from gas to propane turn off the gas and let it run out of gas, after it dies close the doors on the mixer and turn on the propane, it may have a primer button on the regulator. Do you better pictures of he propane mixer?

#23 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 07:12 PM

I guess I should have watched the video first. If you are using the same setup as the video, to go to gas, turn off the propane and turn on the gas and it should work just like any other gas engine. To go back to propane turn off the gas until you run out and turn on the propane. The prime works like a choke on the propane.


Your old regulator is probably gummed up inside, and it may be full of ants. Insects LOVE propane.

#24 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 07:30 PM

Another thing is the rule of thumb on generators is the kw output is half the hp. I.e. a 8 hp motor will put out about 4kw. My Generiac is rated at 15 kw on NATGAS and 16 kw on propane

Last year when the tornado came through the genny ran for about 40 hours nonstop and I never really noticed a big difference on the gas bill. It's not big enough to un th whole house, but it's wired in that way.

#25 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 09:10 PM

Amigatech, when you want to see the propane mixer, you mean the piece that sits up on the intake under the air cleaner?

I'm getting the rebuild kit for the demand regulator (like in the video).

Still trying to decide about the regulator on the tank. What to use. And what is this thing that I had on my line (big fitting on the left)? Maybe that's all I need for a regulator between the LP Tank and the garretson thing.
IMG-20120912-00195.jpg

Thanks so much for your help!

#26 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2012 - 12:05 PM

Okay... So I still have questions on the propane setup (above), but last night I ordered my parts for the demand regulator rebuild and the adjustable tank regulator. So it's time to put aside the propane for a while. And on to gas!

My expectation was that I'd take an hour over lunch and get nothing better than a poor running engine. I wanted to give the carb a once-over so I took off the carb. And the bowl is full of water (I'm assuming this is normal when you run propane through a carb, right?). I dump the water, clean up a little yellow gunk it's left, blow air through the mainjet, adjust the float just a little so it's level. Put it back together, put gas to the fuel line. Crank, crank, vroooom. Right up to speed and barely yo-yo'd on the governor. Man, that was too easy. I did figure out the 2 adjustment screws and had the surging out of the governor in no time.

Had an outlet hooked up to it and I ran my 2.5hp compressor for a while with it no problem! I mean, it did work that generator, but it ran strong and the compressor started up as it normally would with no delay.

Another question... I checked the engine and it wants to run no load about 1960 rpm. The genset says it's rated for 1800. My multimeter says it's producing 130v AC with no load. So should I slow this down a tad? I guess this engine setup isn't made to run at 3600 rpm, huh?

#27 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 07:14 AM

Did some work on some of the engine systems last night. From what I can gather, at some point in the past, the cover where there could be a fuel pump (just a cover - no fuel pump on this model) had a small oil leak. That oil leak allowed some oil to get down on to the rubber motor mount. That rubber mount deteriorated. The mount collapsed allowing an oil drain tube to hit off of the support frame. And I see that there's a patch on the oil drain tube.

Now that I think about it, it all makes sense. Although it appears to have low hours, the PO said that it just had the top-end rebuilt. It probably ran once or twice really low on oil causing it to wear out prematurely. I don't hear or see any sign of the bottom end being loose at all...

#28 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2012 - 08:49 AM

Amigatech, when you want to see the propane mixer, you mean the piece that sits up on the intake under the air cleaner?

I'm getting the rebuild kit for the demand regulator (like in the video).

Still trying to decide about the regulator on the tank. What to use. And what is this thing that I had on my line (big fitting on the left)? Maybe that's all I need for a regulator between the LP Tank and the garretson thing.
IMG-20120912-00195.jpg

Thanks so much for your help!


Yes the mixer is the propane carb.

The water is probably from not running the motor on gas, or from using bad gas, it's not normal.

The thing in the line I believe is a hydrostatic lock, it case the line breaks it shuts off the gas.

The RPM may be about right. Do you have anyway to check the cycles?
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#29 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2012 - 03:09 PM

Yes the mixer is the propane carb.

The water is probably from not running the motor on gas, or from using bad gas, it's not normal.

The thing in the line I believe is a hydrostatic lock, it case the line breaks it shuts off the gas.

The RPM may be about right. Do you have anyway to check the cycles?

Okay. I need to take a close up of that ring around the intake. It looks like it has an adjustment screw up there with a lock nut that very well could be a flow adjustment of some kind.

So you think that water in the carb may have been there all along? I was thinking it came from the expansion of the propane causing condensation in the intake. Or that it came from bad propane? This thing hasn't been run on gasoline in many years, if ever before.

When you say check the cycles, you mean the hertz cycles (60, right?) I wonder if theres a setting on my multimeter for that.

Thanks again guys!
Going to be working on building a frame around it to make it (kinda) portable. I joke and say that this is going to be the heaviest 2500 watt portable generator ever. And, you know what, that may be the truth.

Edited by cookiemonster, September 16, 2012 - 12:06 AM.


#30 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2012 - 04:02 PM

The adjustment on the regulator is probably the fuel adjustment, and the adjustment on the ring is probably the idle adjustment.

Since you have I running good on gas, it should run fine now on propane.

The propane will cause waste vapor at the exhaust, bu hts about it. It wouldn't hut to run it on propane once in a hike just so the carb doesn't go bad.
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