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1971 Case 444 Tractor


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#106 mac102004 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 08:12 PM

Wasn't there an extension for that rod to be used if you had a cab? On my blower it's the same as yours minus that extension. Maybe if you removed the lower section and just used the upper section. I'll measure the rod on mine, although I think my blower is a little newer.
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#107 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 08:47 PM

That may be a proper solution, mac. I'm just in from the garage and ready to settle in the for the night but I will check that out in the morning. I took the two pieces apart tonight so it will be easy to slide the upper piece into position tomorrow. So the theory would be that the holes on the side of the tractor were in fact for when you used the extension (i.e. when you had the cab on)? Makes sense. Thanks for giving me some measurements from your machine.

#108 mac102004 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 09:34 PM

Looks to be about 43" from one end to the other. I haven't mounted it on my 444 yet, just my 220. Its at a good position for turning the chute. Wish I had a rear 3pt blower with hydraulic drive, maybe a future project.

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#109 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 10:43 PM

mac,

Thanks for the measurement and the pic. Nice tractor. I wish I had a set of ag wheels. And, oh by the way....is that really a DEMO model? That's really cool.

Okay, so I couldn't go to bed without checking on the length of the rod. Unfortunately, I'm back to needing a bracket. The top and bottom pieces are approximately 29" a piece (58" total). As you can see in the pictures below the bottom and top pieces are shaped differently; the bottom has the hook to connect with the shoot turner and the top piece is bent in such a way to join with the bottom piece.

2012-10-22 23.01.15.jpg

As you can see, I've started working on getting the lift arm down to metal so I can prime and paint it too.

2012-10-22 23.25.26.jpg

2012-10-22 23.25.35.jpg

2012-10-22 23.25.44.jpg

Back to the drawing board.....

#110 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2012 - 11:00 PM

SNOWCASTER BEARINGS.......my hunch is I need to change out the bearings on either end of the drive shaft. Take a listen and tell me what you think.



Also, here are some pics of a couple holes that I overlooked before priming the inside of the casing. I have a buddy with a Mig welder, should I fill the holes with a small weld or leave well enough alone?

2012-10-22 23.03.43.jpg

2012-10-22 23.04.02.jpg

Thanks again.

#111 mac102004 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2012 - 02:26 PM

mac,

Thanks for the measurement and the pic. Nice tractor. I wish I had a set of ag wheels. And, oh by the way....is that really a DEMO model? That's really cool.

Okay, so I couldn't go to bed without checking on the length of the rod. Unfortunately, I'm back to needing a bracket. The top and bottom pieces are approximately 29" a piece (58" total). As you can see in the pictures below the bottom and top pieces are shaped differently; the bottom has the hook to connect with the shoot turner and the top piece is bent in such a way to join with the bottom piece.

2012-10-22 23.01.15.jpg

As you can see, I've started working on getting the lift arm down to metal so I can prime and paint it too.

2012-10-22 23.25.26.jpg

2012-10-22 23.25.35.jpg

2012-10-22 23.25.44.jpg

Back to the drawing board.....


Yep it's a "Golden" Demonstrator, similar to the "Black Night" Demonstrators. Picked up those ag tires and rims for $100, came off a 855 John Deere.

Your bearings seem a little dry but if there isn't much play and they roll ok then I wouldn't worry too much. You could take them out and repack them with grease I suppose, unless yours has grease fittings on it.

I'd fill those holes in, you have it apart this far so it's worth the little extra effort.
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#112 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2012 - 11:46 PM

Okay, so I've decided to pull the bearings from either end of the drive shaft. Unfortunately I can't get the drive shaft out to get at the bearings. What am I missing? How does one get the drive shaft out? The drive pulley won't come off and one of the set screws (the one in the lock ring nearest the center) is frozen in place. Which way do the locking collars (not sure what they are called) have to turn to come off?

Thanks for any help you might be able to offer.

2012-10-24 00.38.18.jpg

2012-10-24 00.38.05.jpg

2012-10-24 00.37.54.jpg

Edited by Moosetales, October 23, 2012 - 11:50 PM.


#113 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 01:11 AM

Heat from a blue tip wrench is yer friend....

#114 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 01:22 AM

Heat from a blue tip wrench is yer friend....


Wish I had one. Those bleeping collars and drive pulley aren't budging. I guess it's time to cut them off with my grinder :wallbanging:

#115 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 01:36 AM

Marlboro & Case,

Just took a closer look at the diagram and my snowcaster is a J-84 snowcaster (serial #41085) which means it does not have keys on the shaft. The pulley will likely pop off once I drill all the way through the; there is a pin that runs through the pulley and shaft that is rusted in there. Thanks again for the help in the chat room.

#116 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 07:55 AM

IF I DON"T LAUGH I WILL LIKELY CRY......I resorted to cutting the drive pulley off the shaft......AND THE DAMN THING STILL WON'T COME OFF.


2012-10-24 08.33.19.jpg

2012-10-24 08.33.08.jpg

2012-10-24 08.33.27.jpg


So get this, I emailed Brian of Salem Power Equipment, late last night. I get his response this morning and this is what he said:

"This shaft is often quite problematic to get out, since the bearing can't be changed while the pulley
is on. Some customers resort to cutting the shaft, then re-welding. The drive pulley is fairly expensive ($60+), so factor that also in to your
approach."

As you can see I'm well beyond factoring the cost into my approach! [INSERT THE SOUND OF ME LAUGHING MY HEAD OFF HERE.]

Any chance anyone knows of a used pulley I could get my hands on?

#117 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 09:21 AM

Moose,

SOrry that bugger had to come off in such a hairy mess, that is no fun. Heat and patience might have helped, but we do what we do....

Before shelling out big dough on that pulley frim Brian ( hey, he has to make a living too) I'd check with these guys.

http://www.bearingsinc.net/

Just have some measurements handy when you call, ( shaft size, pin diameter, O.D. of pulley, and belt sizing , i.e 3L , 4L etc) and they can ship. Might just be worth a shot, as I doubt Case made any of their own pulleys anyways.

Edited by marlboro180, October 24, 2012 - 09:22 AM.

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#118 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 10:39 AM

marlboro,

After closer inspection I deduced that the pulley may have been removed and put on backwards some time ago and jerry rigged; there was no way the pulley was coming off. Thanks for the consolation and the lead on the pulley.

#119 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 11:32 AM

Would anyone know where I could find the specifications for the drive shaft pulley from a snowcaster j84 snow blower; part # C19731? I can get it from a couple places by part number but they are pricey. Looking at after market products but need the dimensions; belt width, OD of shaft, ID of pulley bearing, etc. Thanks.

#120 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 09:13 PM

Well the pulley, bearings and lock collars are all off the drive shaft. It took multiple hours and my trusty grinder (with a cutting wheel) to accomplish the job.

This is what I started with tonight.....

2012-10-24 19.43.11.jpg

These are some of the bits and pieces that came off the shaft...

2012-10-24 20.45.23.jpg

And this is what the shaft looks like now....

2012-10-24 20.44.50.jpg

They say, "Live and learn." I'd do things a little different next time but all in all I'm pleased with the result. I gouged the shaft a bit in the process of getting the pulley off but I learned that next time I'll cut the out parts of the pulley off, slide the shaft through the hole in the blower housing and then take a masonary chisel and small sledge and pound the remaining hub of the pulley off the shaft.....this way I won't gouge the shaft at all.

2012-10-24 20.44.58.jpg

2012-10-24 20.45.07.jpg

I also figured out why the pulley wouldn't come off. In one of the picks above you'll notice the hole in the shaft, where the pin which holds the pulley onto the shaft goes, is to the left of where it appears I attempted to drill a secondary hole. Well, someone took the pulley off some time in the past and put it on backwards. The "second hole" is from where I drilled out the pin sticking out of the hub of the pulley. As you can see, the pin wasn't anywhere close to where it should have been. The only thing that was holding this pulley in place, on the shaft, was RUST. I guess that's my silver lining. The second silver lining is that I get to help stimulate the economy with my hard earned dollars by buying a new pulley.

Thanks to everyone who helped walk me through my frustrations last night.

Edited by Moosetales, October 24, 2012 - 09:15 PM.





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