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1971 Case 444 Tractor


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#76 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2012 - 07:54 PM

I have the correct parts manual for my tractor: S/N 9652632. The manual covers S/N between S/N 9648801 to 9661261 so that appears to cover my tractor.

Well I thought I had the correct Operator's (Owner's) Manual but after a little searching I now realized the manual that I have does not cover the S/N on my tractor. I actually need the following Operator's Manual: 9-2862 OM 220, 222, 442, 444.

Off to search for that specific Operator's Manual....Operator's and Owner's is an interchangeable term, right?

Edited by Moosetales, October 18, 2012 - 07:58 PM.


#77 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2012 - 08:02 PM

Do you have the parts and owners manual per the serial # of tractor, and do you have a multimeter?


I do not have a multimeter but a buddy of mine does so I can get my hands on one. I'm guessing you've got some directions for me.....now I'm sounding like the Karate Kid looking for guidance from the Master :D .

#78 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2012 - 08:09 PM

I do not have a multimeter but a buddy of mine does so I can get my hands on one. I'm guessing you've got some directions for me.....now I'm sounding like the Karate Kid looking for guidance from the Master :D .

Master all right :ah_shoot:
First things first you need the right manual for the proper wiring diagram, and then it's just, connect the dots. Test from A to B to C etc. Your tractor is in the gray area could be a '69 70' or a '71 so really need to know a little more about engine. Does it have a starter/generator?

#79 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2012 - 08:25 PM

If your not sure, take some pictures from all sides of motor and battery area along with rear of firewall.

#80 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2012 - 09:26 PM

Master all right :ah_shoot:
First things first you need the right manual for the proper wiring diagram, and then it's just, connect the dots. Test from A to B to C etc. Your tractor is in the gray area could be a '69 70' or a '71 so really need to know a little more about engine. Does it have a starter/generator?


Yes, it has a starter/generator (see pic below).

2012-10-18 22.17.41.jpg

Here's a pic of the engine tag:

2012-10-18 22.17.31.jpg

Here's a pic of the dash:



Here's a pic of the new starter:

2012-10-18 19.21.19.jpg

Here's a pic of the battery pan area:

2012-10-18 22.17.53.jpg

#81 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 05:26 AM

Here are a few more pics to help with confirming the year of my CASE:

IMG_0951.JPG

IMG_0976.JPG

IMG_0977.JPG

IMG_0980.JPG

So far, everything I can find indicates she's a '71 but I'm green through and through.

Edited by Moosetales, October 19, 2012 - 05:27 AM.


#82 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 11:44 AM

The engine serial no. indicates that the engine was built in 1971.
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#83 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 12:15 PM

The engine serial no. indicates that the engine was built in 1971.


Greg,

So it's safe to say I have a '71 444? Thanks for the feedback.

Matthew

#84 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 07:28 PM

Well today found me at Motor Supply buying a new GT battery (Exide) and brainstorming with their resident paint expert about my paint options. Their resident expert encouraged me to look into using a primer that is catalyzed....allows the primer to bond to the metal while providing a hard coat. Given that a can of the stuff is $23 I'm considering investing in a low end paint gun for the application of the primer and top coat. He recommended using a gravity feed vs. a siphon feed gun but gravity feed can be a bit pricey I've found.

My other big advancement today was getting closer to diagnosing the problem with my ignition system. My buddy Tom suggested that I unhook the wire (from the ignition switch end) that runs between the ignition switch and the solenoid and touch it to the + post on the battery. His theory was that if the problem lies within the ignition switch the machine should turnover and come to life. Well, here's a Youtube clip that demonstrate better than I could explain what happened:



So tomorrow I hope to get the switch re-installed and if she doesn't turn over I'll be in the market for a new ignition switch. Thanks to all who have helped isolate the problem.

#85 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 07:44 PM

There is more than one kind of ignition switch. Make sure you get the correct one for your application. Napa may have the one you need but you will need to know the terminals so you can get the correct one. I have found more than one GT that "couldnt run" that had the wrong switch.

#86 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 10:56 PM

Good diagnosis Moosetales. A to B, then C = a happy guy.
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#87 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 11:41 PM

Here's a video of the 444 starting and running.



#88 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 11:44 PM

I've got a throttle problem that I need some help with. As you will see, the throttle does not want to stay put when opened up all the way. Not sure exactly how to adjust the cable. Your feedback is appreciated.



Thanks in advance.

#89 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2012 - 11:45 PM

That Machine sounds great. Nice work on the switch.
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#90 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2012 - 02:55 AM

I've got a throttle problem that I need some help with. As you will see, the throttle does not want to stay put when opened up all the way. Not sure exactly how to adjust the cable. Your feedback is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


This usually happens when someone lubes the throttle cable hinge point (not sure what to call it).
What I have done is I took the cable off and gave the hinge area a smack with the hammer to tighten the hinge up. Over time it gets loose and won't hold position.
Or get a new cable.
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