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1971 Case 444 Tractor


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#196 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2012 - 04:49 PM

How much clearance is ideal and real between the auger and the blower housing? 1/4", 1/2", 1/8"

BTW, Happy Thanksgiving to you all.

I've nearly completed the refurbish. I've got a lift arm/turn rod issue I'll post about in a little bit. The rod doesn't clear the muffler. I read somewhere that there were two different lift arm for these bloelwers. Truth or fiction?

#197 mac102004 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2012 - 06:37 PM

Thanksgiving? That was last month!

I would say you'd want it as close as possible to the housing, without rubbing of course. If there is too much clearence you will loose snow, and it wont blow snow as good. Couldn't give you an exact number.

I can't really comment on the lift arms, as I have no idea. I think there was two for the plow, maybe the blower too?

I really need to rebuild my blower as well, but I'm trying to source a 48" to replace my 38". Picked up 24 gallons of WW for my rear ags yesterday.

#198 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2012 - 07:55 PM

Well, the light has been installed....just waiting to wiring things up. Yes, I committed the sin of drilling a hole in the fender. I LOVE IT. The vintage nature of the light makes it look natural.

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And the blower is painted and almost entirely put back together.

2012-11-23 15.51.21.jpg

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I still have the problem with the turn rod.....it hits the muffler and I'm not sure what the problem. Pics to follow.

#199 mac102004 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2012 - 09:48 PM

Looks like you need some new front tires, the stockers are going to be terrible in the snow. My 220 would hardly steer at all last winter with stock tires.

Your blower is looking great, I had trouble with the turn rod on mine hitting the muffler on my 72' 220 as well, but it's fine on my 444 as the muffler is under the hood. It's very bent out of shape and stil hits the lift rod close to the 90* bend though.

#200 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2012 - 10:24 PM

Looks great Moose, mac is right on , them slicks are gonna do you no favors in the snow.

But oh well, try it and see how it goes :-)

#201 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2012 - 08:00 PM

I removed the linkage from the PTO to the sleeve hitch today and bolted the sleeve hitch into place. Do you guys do this for the winter or do you leave the sleeve hitch connected even when using the snowblower? Thanks.

#202 mac102004 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2012 - 08:15 PM

I left mine connected last winder. I plan to either put a selector valve to choose between 3pt and mid lift cylinders OR make some sort of lockout bracket for my rear 3pt to lock it upright.
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#203 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2012 - 09:12 PM

Well one Holiday down and another yet to come. Yes it's Christmas time.

Today started cold and cloudy but not a drop of precipitation so it was a great day for one last round of road maintenance. This constitutes dragging a modified I-Beam that dad fabricated for me to scarify and drag the road smooth. The Case did fantastic. Enough power to drag excess dirt back up the road to fill in pot holes. She looked proud sitting atop the small hill midway up the farm road we live on.

Tractor.jpg

Then it was off to start the Christmas tradition of finding a Christmas tree at a local tree farm. Yes that would be me under the tree. I'm confident my family is in shock at the thought of me meeting the maker under the tree but my son in the background looks like he can't wait to get his hands on what's being willed to him. :D

IMG_1180.JPG

Now back home and in the basement scrounging for Christmas tree lights. Yes, I found them easily this year. Score one for me.

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Well, can't light the tree without the extension cord. Found that quickly too but oh it was slightly out of reach. With a bit of a stretch I get it and turn to walk out of my shop. CRASH! BOOM! BANG! THUD! I turn to see my Speaker 777s (housing and lenses) on the floor. Everything intact except one lens. No good deed goes unpunished, or so the phrase goes.

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Well, not all was lost. At least the Christmas tree was lit and decorated and the family was able to witness a grown man almost in tears and then quickly regroup and bear witness to the fact that it was only a headlight lens and NOT a life or limb.

2012-11-25 19.24.49.jpg

So, to all of you who have made similar mistakes, where do I sign up for the club. Are there benefits? :( Oh, the clips to install the light came in the mail on Friday and once the kids were down tonight I was planning to install the lights. Oh well, such as life.

Anyone have ONE glass Speaker 777 lens they would be willing to sell to me? :thumbs: Thanks.

Edited by Moosetales, November 25, 2012 - 09:14 PM.


#204 mac102004 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2012 - 08:37 AM

Ouch, that sucks. I thought I seen ONE lense on eBay not so long ago, I'd check there first.
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#205 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2012 - 08:30 PM

OUCH!!!!! I dont think even JB weld could do much for that. And just before you were planning on getting them installed. Insult to injury. I am sorry for your loose. :boo_hoo:
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#206 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2012 - 10:29 PM

Can anyone guess what this motor might be destined to be used for on my 444? Heck, can anyone guess what this motor came off of? It was a new one to me that's for sure.

motor.JPG

motor rpm.JPG

It's just in the early design stages so I may go with another motor but this is the front runner at this time.

Edited by Moosetales, November 26, 2012 - 10:35 PM.


#207 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2012 - 11:38 PM

Dont know what it came off of but guessing it will be a chute rotator for the snow beast.

#208 mac102004 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2012 - 11:52 PM

No clue where it came from, but is 32RPM fast enough? Seems kind of slow, even for the shute rotation. Love to seem how you rig it up though, been thinking about doing the same to mine.

#209 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2012 - 06:29 AM

Yup, you guys are quick on your feet. It comes off of a Power Drive Kit for the landing gear on a 5th wheel.

http://www.etrailer....1824200100.html

Here are some specs:

Features:
  • Makes lifting with your Bulldog jack faster and easier
  • Fits Bulldog single-speed jacks with 12,000-lb static capacity
  • Works great for horse, livestock and heavy-duty trailers
  • Designed to be compact for tight applications
  • Offers quiet operation and super-efficient use of electrical power
  • Lifts 3" per minute (at typical working loads)
  • Can be used for either single or tandem applications
    • Includes hex coupling for tandem jack operations
  • Allows years of maintenance-free operation thanks to a permanently lubricated system
  • Has custom-designed wiring harness and rocker switch in weatherproof box
  • Includes 25-amp circuit breaker with push-button reset
  • Can be operated manually in the event of power loss
  • Resists the elements
    • Aluminum gearbox guards against corrosion
    • Weatherproof cover protects entire kit
  • Installs easily with all required parts included
    • Powered-drive assembly
    • Torque stop tube with energy absorber
    • Extra bevel gear and dowel pin
    • Terminal box
    • Wiring harness and switch box
    • Hex coupling
    • Weatherproof cover
  • Made in USA
Specs:
  • Motor power: 12 volt DC
  • Lift capacity: 7,500 lbs
  • Application: Bulldog 12,000-lb capacity, single-speed jacks
  • Shaft size: 1"
  • Dimensions of power drive: 8" long x 3-9/16" wide x 6-3/16" tall
Mac, you are correct, it may be a little slow for my liking. I've seen it recommended to use 60 rpm as the low end and up to 150 rpm for the upper end of speeds. I'm banking on the fact that the 3" per minute (under working load) means when the jack is lifting 7,500 lbs. and that it would be slightly faster under a couple pounds of load. (FINGERS CROSSED). A buddy of mine suggested that I might be able to "re-gear" it if I was willing to be creative. We'll see.

The selling point for me at this time is the possibility of spot welding the coil on the rod directly onto the shaft of this motor, thus eliminating the need to sister the rod coming from the motor to the chute control rod that has the coil spot welded to it.

The other selling point is that should I run into electrical problems, the hex shaft coming out the back allows me to attach a hand crank and manually crank the chute left or right.

All in all I'm not yet certain this is the direction I will go but it sure as some cool features.

Edited by Moosetales, November 27, 2012 - 06:32 AM.


#210 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2012 - 05:54 PM

Okay, I found another motor that could work great.....except now I'm on the other end of the RPM range.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item564a132d03

Yes, to all of you that want to say......."JUST GO WITH WHAT EVERYONE ELSE HAS PROVEN WORKS........USE A WINDOW MOTOR"......I'm either really stubborn and don't like to just follow the crowd or I love the hunt, the pursuit and the challenge of finding something that takes it up a notch. Watch, I'll probably settle for using an electric window motor now that I've said all that :thumbs: .

Anyone familiar enough with electronics to know if it's reasonable to be able to use a rhreostat on this motor to dial in on the perfect RPMs that my rig would need to turn the chute at the speed of my liking? Thanks.

Here are some stats:
  • BRAND NEW GEAR MOTOR
  • GREAT FOR FEED SYSTEMS,BUGGIES,ROBOTS,SAWMILL EQUIPMENT, WHEEL CHAIRS ETC...
  • HOLLOW OUTPUT SHAFT WITH 12 MM ID HOLE SO IT CAN BE USED FOR AN AXLE THROUGH {or a chute turn rod}
  • PERMANENT MAGNET
  • LONG SERVICE LIFE
  • OUTPUT IS 170-180 RPM
  • 1/4 HP APROX (180 WATTS)
  • RATIO 21.6:1
  • WEIGHS 5.5 LBS
  • torque is 25-35 NM
  • OVERALL DIMENSIONS 6.8"X5.4"X6.1" APROX
  • GREAT FOR OUTDOOR USE AS WELL AS INDOOR

Edited by Moosetales, November 27, 2012 - 06:04 PM.





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