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1971 Case 444 Tractor


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#151 190forklift OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 06:41 PM

The hyd,s might be dead headed.Make sure the handles in neutral position on lift handle.190forklift

#152 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2012 - 01:27 AM

LIGHTS...SPEAKER 777s! Thanks to coldone I have new to me lights for my CASE. I need to make or pick up 4 gaskets and I need to locate or fabricate 4 brackets to hold the lights in. Anyone ever made their own gaskets or brackets for 777s? Thanks.


Go here for your light brackets. http://www.casegarde...m/13hemocl.html
and anything else for that matter.
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#153 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2012 - 06:54 AM

Go here for your light brackets. http://www.casegarde...m/13hemocl.html
and anything else for that matter.


I've emailed the company to see if they can work with me on shipping. I ordered 4 clips and they want $16.03 plus $3.72 for the product. YIKES! We'll see if they might be able to drop them in the old snail mail for me. Here's to hoping and thanks for the link; they sure do have lots of great stuff.

#154 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2012 - 06:56 AM

The hyd,s might be dead headed.Make sure the handles in neutral position on lift handle.190forklift


190forklift,

Not sure I follow you. Were you commenting on an earlier post? If so, please explain further so I can better understand and learn. Thanks.

#155 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2012 - 02:06 PM

I've emailed the company to see if they can work with me on shipping. I ordered 4 clips and they want $16.03 plus $3.72 for the product. YIKES! We'll see if they might be able to drop them in the old snail mail for me. Here's to hoping and thanks for the link; they sure do have lots of great stuff.


Yes they will work with you on shipping. I'm glad you contacted them about that. Your not the first to run into that issue.

#156 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2012 - 08:52 PM

Well today I worked on spiffing up the exhaust system (muffler). Stainless steel bolts (check), stainless steel lock washers (check), flat black high heat spray paint (check) and 45 minutes worth of elbow grease to polish off the surface rust (check).

Before sanding was completed...

2012-11-04 13.39.44.jpg

After sanding was completed...

2012-11-04 14.12.02.jpg

After painting...

2012-11-04 19.54.35.jpg

2012-11-04 19.51.55.jpg

So I have a question, the bolts that held the muffler onto the engine did NOT have lock washers. I purchased lock washers to put back on but I'm not sure if I should or need to. Any thoughts?

Here's a pic of the exhaust outlet (with stainless steel bolts....one with lock washer and one without) ready for a new gasket (hopefully to come in the mail tomorrow) and then to bolt the muffler back in place.

2012-11-04 16.48.04.jpg

#157 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2012 - 08:57 PM

Oh, almost forgot, for those of you who may have noticed in the last pic in my previous post, yes the fuel line is missing. I removed the rock hard old one today and purchased a foot of new tubing. I will be cutting and getting that installed tomorrow. I know you guys have hawk eyes so I thought I'd mention that before someone said...."You know, I think I found your problem....the fuel line is missing." All kidding aside, I really appreciate everyone checking in on my progress and giving me feedback.

I expect my package from Brian to come tomorrow or the next day and I should be getting the blower housing back from the high school Industrial Arts class soon so I will be getting the rest of the housing primed, painted and back together. I'm sure to have more questions when I start to reassemble things.

#158 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2012 - 09:48 PM

My thought on the SS steel washers is this.... :

Depending on the SS, they will expand and contract at a dififferent rate that the block, and the exhaust, so the lock washers are now a good thing. --- Rust , is a kind of " lockwasher" LOL

You'll be fine, and them allen bolts are gonna be a bugger to get out in the future, in my humble opinion. SS bolts are soft.... Hopefully there is some anti-seize on 'em... :thumbs:

#159 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2012 - 06:49 AM

My thought on the SS steel washers is this.... :

Depending on the SS, they will expand and contract at a dififferent rate that the block, and the exhaust, so the lock washers are now a good thing. --- Rust , is a kind of " lockwasher" LOL

You'll be fine, and them allen bolts are gonna be a bugger to get out in the future, in my humble opinion. SS bolts are soft.... Hopefully there is some anti-seize on 'em... :thumbs:


Thanks marlboro180. You got me thinking of things I've never considered and here are a few resources for others like me who have a lot to learn:

We have a problem when tightening stainless steel bolts - they tend to seize - whats happening?

Stainless steel can unpredictably sustain galling (cold welding). Stainless steel self-generates an oxide surface film for corrosion protection. During fastener tightening, as pressure builds between the contacting and sliding, thread surfaces, protective oxides are broken, possibly wiped off, and interface metal high points shear or lock together. This cumulative clogging-shearing-locking action causes increasing adhesion. In the extreme, galling leads to seizing - the actual freezing together of the threads. If tightening is continued, the fastener can be twisted off or its threads ripped out.

If galling is occurring than because of high friction the torque will not be converted into bolt pre-load. This may be the cause of the problems that you are experiencing. The change may be due to the surface roughness changing on the threads or other similar minor change. To overcome the problem - suggestions are:

1. Slowing down the installation RPM speed may possibly solve or reduce the frequency of the problem. As the installation RPM increases, the heat generated during tightening increases. As the heat increases, so does the tendency for the occurrence of thread galling.

2. Lubricating the internal and/or external threads frequently can eliminate thread galling. The lubricants usually contain substantial amounts of molybdenum disulfide (moly). Some extreme pressure waxes can also be effective. Be careful however, if you use the stainless steel fasteners in food related applications some lubricants may be unacceptable. Lubricants can be applied at the point of assembly or pre-applied as a batch process similar to plating. Several chemical companies, such as Moly-Kote, offer anti-galling lubricants.

3. Different combinations of nut and bolt materials can assist in reducing or even eliminating galling. Some organizations specify a different material, such as aluminum bronze nuts. However this can introduce a corrosion problem since aluminum bronze is anodic to stainless steel.

http://www.boltscien...m/pages/faq.htm

Here's another site that gives calculations for Galvanic corrosion:

Quality engineering and design requires an understanding of material compatibility. Galvanic corrosion (some times called dissimilar metal corrosion) is the process by which the materials in contact with each other oxidizes or corrodes. There are three conditions that must exist for galvanic corrosion to occur. First there must be two electrochemically dissimilar metals present. Second, there must be an electrically conductive path between the two metals. And third, there must be a conductive path for the metal ions to move from the more anodic metal to the more cathodic metal. If any one of these three conditions does not exist, galvanic corrosion will not occur. Often when design requires that dissimilar metals come in contact, the galvanic compatibility is managed by finishes and plating. The finishing and plating selected facilitate the dissimilar materials being in contact and protect the base materials from corrosion.


For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments fall into this category. Typically there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.

For normal environments, such as storage in warehouses or non-temperature and humidity controlled environments. Typically there should not be more than 0.25 V difference in the "Anodic Index".

For controlled environments, such that are temperature and humidity controlled, 0.50 V can be tolerated. Caution should be maintained when deciding for this application as humidity and temperature do vary from regions

http://www.engineers...apatability.htm

And finally, here's the link to a thread which discusses this matter in a bit more detail (the thread talks about boats but has good information about SS, use of anti-sieze, etc.).

http://www.offshoreo...on-block-3.html

I still need to digest this information before making my decision but I'm leaning away from SS for now.
Galvanic Compatibility Corrosion
Dissimilar Metal Corrosion
Galvanic Compatibility Corrosion
Dissimilar Metal Corrosion


#160 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2012 - 09:19 AM

TIRE CHAINS.......any idea whether these would fit my 16' turf tires? I've compared them visually to a set of E16 I found online and they look close.

http://maine.craigsl...3386342646.html

#161 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2012 - 10:07 AM

As probably said above,regular lock washes aren't the best for exhaust,because the heat will "spring" out of them and they no longer hold their lock properly.
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#162 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2012 - 07:25 AM

Dressed up and nowhere to go.......that is my Speaker 777s. Painted and polished and ready to go.

2012-11-06 07.08.59.jpg

2012-11-06 07.08.29.jpg

Working on gaskets and then they'll be mounted into place. I decided to go with a high heat flat black paint to stave off corrosion.

#163 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2012 - 10:35 AM

Those lights look in great condition.
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#164 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2012 - 01:05 PM

Those lights look in great condition.


Thanks to coldone I started with good stock.

#165 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2012 - 01:24 PM

This will be either a monumental "rookie" failure or I will have pulled a rabbit out of a hat and figured something out by hook or by crook.

I have tentatively determined that the chains I posted about above will fit my 16" rimmed rear turf tires on my 444. Would someone be daring enough to check my hypothesis contained in the PDF file below? Be kind with your feedback if I've missed the mark on this conclusion. :thumbs:

Attached File  Tire Size.pdf   247.29KB   146 downloads

Thanks.
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