I Too Just Got Back From A Road Trip!
Posted September 19, 2012 - 05:13 PM
Did you have spark while you were trying to start it? ....Did you clean the rust from the magneto armature and flywheel magnets? .....Did you check the points while you had the flywheel off? ......Is the flywheel key partially sheared?
Does it have compression?
The engine was running when I got the shredder, and I ran it too. .....It's been parked approx 1-1/2 years outside, but it should run again, without having to go inside the crankcase.
To remove the centrifugal clutch, you must remove the snap ring that holds the pulley on the clutch. .....Then remove the set screws holding the clutch to the crankshaft. ......LOTS of penetrant needed, and don't apply too much force with a puller or hammer.
- MailmAn said thank you
Posted September 19, 2012 - 05:46 PM
Usually after sitting the contacts on the flywheel and coil will rust and need to be cleaned.
Posted September 19, 2012 - 06:15 PM
As far as I can tell from looking at it, it shouldn't have any points on it. It has the magneto ignition (I call it a coil, but I suppose it is technically not) on the flywheel and I don't think there is any points on it as it looks solid state to me. (But I could be wrong...) Not really sure how old the engine actually is or when Briggs used (or stopped using) points?
Didn't check compression. Also not sure how it got so much water in the crankcase, so I'm assuming the rings aren't good if the crankcase was full of water. Where did it sneak in from though? The plug was tight... Would it seep in through the carburetor/intake?
Posted September 19, 2012 - 07:01 PM
Posted September 24, 2012 - 06:53 PM
There is a fuel-mixture adjusting screw on the side of the carburetor. ...This is the large-headed horizontal screw with a spring under its head. ....Turn that adjuster approx 1/2 turn counter-clockwise to richen the fuel mixture. ....Now try running the engine off the choke position. ....Did that help?
That engine started too easily to have major carb/linkage problems. .....Most people don't realize that most small engines are sensitive to brand of gas, and the carb may need minor adjustment to have the engine run at its best.
Bruce, I did turn that mixture screw a half-turn or so to the left (counter-clockwise) and it seems to run great now. No idea what the problem was (or if it just finally worked some old gas out of its system from sitting for a while?). I hauled it over to this guy's house I've been doing some work at in the bed of my truck. Let me tell you, it was an ordeal!! I barely managed to muscle it up the ramps into the bed and after that, it barely fit in the bed and the tailgate JUST barely closed with about a 1/8 inch of clearance it was so tight. This thing is a monster, lol! So, after almost killing myself unloading it at his house, I started it up and it ran great at full throttle with the choke off after adjusting the mixture screw. Not sure if the screw itself did the trick or it finally ran some good gas through the engine or what, but it worked great! I used it to clean up clippings from trimming his hedges last week. He has a LOT of hedges along the front of his house and it took me 2 and a half days to trim them all with his electric trimmer. But when I was done, I fired up that Trac-Vac and put the chute on the ground and raked the clippings near it and it sucks them right up! It's like a huge gas-powered outdoor shop-vac! I love it... Now I just need to figure out how to lengthen the hitch plate on my 850 so that I can corner better with it without scraping the rear wheels with the trailer tongue... Always something, right?
(...Well, and actually fix the 850 so that I can actually tow it!! That would help too!! )
Edited by MailmAn, September 24, 2012 - 06:55 PM.
Posted September 25, 2012 - 12:10 AM
You might consider fabbing up a 'wand' for picking up stuff like those clippings.
The EZ-Vac has one that you connect to the intake of the blower. Allows you to get stuff in flower beds, etc.
If you are 1/2 way handy, I'll bet you could come up with something similar.
You can see it in this pic:
Posted September 25, 2012 - 07:04 AM
I would like to get another one to go with it, but I haven't seen a good used one or even just the handle part like you have in your photo that I could attach a new hose to. But for now, I'm just using the chute part that is supposed to attach to the deck. It works pretty well and has a decent sized opening to rake clippings into. The only thing it doesn't do well on is getting into hard to reach areas, like flower beds, as you said. Would be nice to have something more maneuverable and with a longer hose. (The hose for the deck isn't very long and I have to keep moving the whole trailer quite frequently to get everything.) Oh well... It is still a great unit and I'm very glad I made the voyage to get it!
Still haven't looked at the MacKissic again though. Or my Bolens 850 for that matter. Hoping to remedy THAT today though...
Posted September 25, 2012 - 08:05 AM
I haven't seen a good used one or even just the handle part like you have in your photo that I could attach a new hose to.
Several of the lawn vacs used a plastic tube for a "wand" attachment. ......I think a piece of 4" Schedule 40 PVC would be suitable, and could be adapted to a new longer hose. .....A handle for the tube can be easily made from 1/2" electrical conduit, flat stock, or even a garage-door lift handle.
I don't remember --- What diameter hose fits the vac?
Posted September 25, 2012 - 10:05 AM
Remote Pickups come in three models:
The Model 150 - Comes with 4" diameter wand assembly and remote hose, 6" to 4" reducer and 6" quick connector (for 6" intake).
The Model 160 - Comes with 6" diameter wand assembly and remote hose, 6" splice connector and 6" quick connector (for 6" intake).
The Model 190 - Comes with 6" diameter wand assembly and remote hose, 8" to 6" reducer and 8" quick connector (for 8" intake).
Thing is they ain't cheap. Place is listing them at $212.18 That's from this place: http://www.powerequi...-hose-kits.aspx
However, a distributer in PA shows a parts breakdown for the Model 150, and you might be able to get just the reducer part, and then "brew your own" for the rest of it.
- MailmAn said thank you
Posted October 04, 2012 - 10:06 AM
I had to do a little modification to the chute to get it to fit on my Bolens 850. I'm not entirely sure WHY the chute that attaches to the mower deck has a little metal flap in the way of the discharge chute of the mower deck, but I had to use my Dremel and a cutoff wheel to cut that piece so it could be bent out of the way. Here's pics of what I did to make the chute fit on my tractor:
After this, I just had to drill holes in my deck to mount the chute bracket that the chute clips into to hold the chute in place in front of the mower discharge opening. I bought some new mounting bolts to attach the bracket to my deck. Of course, I've only used this setup once before my tractor broke and now I'm side-tracked working on getting that working again. But at least the Trac-Vac should work now once my Bolens 850 is back running again.
The only issue I think I might have left is that the chute for the Trac-Vac adds some extra weight to the one side of the mower deck and I don't have any deck wheels to help balance the deck to keep it from scalping the lawn on the one side of the deck where the discharge is. Now, maybe it will be alright on flat ground, but especially on hills and uneven ground, I'm worried that this setup might scalp the lawn in spots or otherwise mow it unevenly. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep the tractor mowing evenly while using the Trac-Vac? Thanks!