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Anyone dismantle a newer Power King clutch?


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#1 joefixit OFFLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2010 - 10:23 PM

I finally got the garage cleaned up this weekend, there still was a bench under the heap of junk in the corner, and I found almost all of my tools. It now time to get to the clutch on the Power King. Has anyone dismantled one of these? Mine is an '85 1614. If I remove the fork, will that release the spring pressure? I'm not sure how this is going to pop apart, it seems pretty well seized up as it was left out in the weather after it was removed from the tractor. I'm afraid or having this thing launching parts at me. Any suggestions anyone?


Thanks,

joefixit

#2 powerking56 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2010 - 10:59 AM

I was hoping someone else would jump in here as I do not know much of anything about the later PK tractors. I do know there is a very active yahoo group with a tremendous amount of PK knowledge, someone there probably can help you with specific questions.
Peter

#3 joefixit OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2010 - 06:28 PM

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the reply. I kind of figured there weren't a lot of the newer PK's on here. I ended up calling Mission Mfg. today and got the scoop on disassembly. I'll take some pictures as I go so we can have the knowledge on here!

joefixit

#4 powerking56 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2010 - 07:41 PM

Glad Mission was able/willing to help. Pictures of the project will be great!!
Peter

#5 joefixit OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2010 - 10:58 PM

Well, I got started on the clutch tonight. I had to drill the pins out of the fork, they were not going to drive out. After removing the fork and the cross shaft, it took some serious hammering to drive the clutch assembly out of the housing. Everything was rusted and seized pretty badly. Here are the pics.....

I'll have to getthe assembly dismantled and see what I need for parts now....

joefixit

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#6 joefixit OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2010 - 10:51 PM

I got a chance today to do some further disassembly and a close inspection of the clutch. It apppears this will be a bit more expensive than I originally thought. The pilot bushing is wore off center, and the splines on the end of the shaft that drive the discs are in very poor shape. The discs themselves are ok, but the splines have some play and I'm not sure if I want to re-use them. The discs unfortunately are extremely expensive. I was hoping this would be a $50 to $100 repair but its looking like about $150 to $250 or more.

This clutch seem to be a pretty poor design, and from what I've read a serious weak point in the drivetrain. It seems there is a lot of parts that are supposed to spin freely that, with a bit of wear, can bind and and pretty quickly destroy the whole thing. There probably should have been one more bearing in this thing on the throw out collar.

I guess I'll call Mission tomorrow and find out what the damages are....

joefixit

#7 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2010 - 03:06 PM

I've welded up worn splined shafts & re-cut the spines with an air cutoff wheel. Tedious, but it works if you can hold a steady line.

#8 powerking56 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2010 - 06:53 PM

It looks like that unit suffered from some poor storage over the years on top of any design flaws.
Hope Mission can help you out without totally flattening the wallet!!
Peter

#9 joefixit OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2010 - 11:05 PM

It looks like that unit suffered from some poor storage over the years on top of any design flaws.
Hope Mission can help you out without totally flattening the wallet!!
Peter


The previous owner had dismantled the clutch, threw the parts in a coffee can and left them sit on the tractor seat outside for 6 months. Everything actually cleaned up pretty well. The previous owner replaced the fork in the clutch, and reassembled the plates in the wrong order, which chewed all the splines up and nearly stripped all the plates out. The pilot bushing was also worn off-center allowing everything to wobble. Not a good combo, The damage from Mission is looking like $350 to do it right. I can't think of a good way to repair this thing cheaply and be able to trust it for the work I want it to do. As much as I love finding a budget repair, sometimes the best fix is to open the wallet..........


joefixit

#10 joefixit OFFLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2010 - 11:26 PM

I've been busy with work so I haven't had a chance to touch this project. I also was holding out hope of scraping up some parts at eother the Badger Steam & Gas Engine Show in Baraboo, WI or at the Rock River Thresheree this weekend in Edgerton/Janesville area. I didn't find any parts, but did get some leads on a few used parts dealers. I spoke to one gentleman this afternoon, and he informed me that the clutch was the common failure point in those, so basically all used clutches are junk, and are typically the reason these tractors are parted out. It also sounded like a complete rebuild was not going to solve any problems, it would only fail again. He made a suggestion that I find very intriguing, and after a little research sounds like the way to go possibly. His suggestion was to find a Eaton model 6 or 7 hydrostatic transmission and use it in place of the clutch. I would still keep the stock tranny and use that for my reverse and multiple ranges, and I would block the reverse on the hydro.

Anyone got any suggestions on this?

What is the general opinion on an Eaton hydro? What is a fair price for a used one?

Should I keep the stock tranny, or would I run into problems with running the engine at higher RPMs and slowing the hydro, thus putting more torque on the output of the hydro than the motor would have at the same speed that would damage the tranny?

I think I could use the clutch pedal to control the speed of the hydro, thus not making any huge changes to the tractor. There also appears to be plenty of room for the hydro to fit either under the hood or in the tunnel.

If I try to make this work I'll make sure I document it well......

I guess its back to Thresheree tomorrow to look for a hydro?

joefixit




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