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Ford Lgt 165--a Major Setback


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#1 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 05:14 PM

Anyone know how to repair a cast iron oil pan or have a replacement pan for a K341 from a Ford LGT 165?

I bought a K341 Kohler from a JD 300 to replace the engine in my Ford LGT165 (broken conn rod). I've been swapping flywheels, tinwork, etc. onto the engine. The gasket was still good on the pan, so I just put some red RTV and sealed it up.

I'm getting ready to fire it up, so I put in 1 1/2 quarts of oil... I noticed some leaking on one side, and
<Horror of Horrors> the pan is cracked at the pan bolt hole. Apparently some of the gasket was pulled away and the pan cracked when I reinstalled it(I didn't just tighten her down and guess--I torqued it to the specified ft/lbs)

Anyway... I now need a new oil pan. There is only one spec number that used this pan--21147. Near as I can tell, the part number is 236633. There is another pan that apparently is similar, but has the oil drain in a different location. It is 47 19 913.

Can anyone help me out on this???

Thanks

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 05:30 PM

Wow, very sorry to hear it US. Do you have a decent welding shop anywhere near you? May be your best course of action...
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#3 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 05:46 PM

Ya I would go the welding route myself...wonder why the original rod broke? I have an idea...but, in all seriousness welding the pan is the ticket...I've used JB weld in a pinch but for a long term fix I'd weld it and never sweat it! Good luck
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#4 BEN KAVALIER OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 08:24 PM

the lgt 165 was made by Jacobsen have you checked ebay?
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#5 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 08:38 PM

Sorry to hear about this Utah S. You've had your fair share of bad luck on this one. I
sure hope you can get it sorted out. Welding it seems to be the easier/cheaper answer.

#6 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 08:41 PM

Clamp it to a flat solid surface and braze it up. Be as good as new in a few minutes and saves money. If you lived closer I would look at doing it for you. Good luck.
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#7 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 09:58 PM

Ya I would go the welding route myself...wonder why the original rod broke? I have an idea...but, in all seriousness welding the pan is the ticket...I've used JB weld in a pinch but for a long term fix I'd weld it and never sweat it! Good luck


I have to blame this one on me, not the PO. The original gasket was in good shape, so, rather than scrape it off and make another for it, I just wiped it down good with brake cleaner, put some silicone-type gasket maker on it (high temp Permatex Red), and put it back on...

I was careful to torque everything down in stages to the specs...what I didn't know was that the gasket had came off on the corner around one bolt hole. When I torqued it down, it cracked the corner off, but I didn't notice it until I filled it with oil prior to starting it up... <Grrrrrr!!>

Anyway, I did find a welding shop that has experience welding cast iron, and they're open in the morning tomorrow (Saturday) so maybe I can get it fixed. If they can't fix it then I did find a pan for a K301 12 hp off an LGT 125 at Joe's Outdoor. It looks to be the same... does anyone know if they'll fit???

Thanks for your reply,
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#8 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 10:00 PM

Clamp it to a flat solid surface and braze it up. Be as good as new in a few minutes and saves money. If you lived closer I would look at doing it for you. Good luck.


Thanks Chris, I appreciate your generosity. I may have found a weld shop that can do it--hopefully they can get to it tomorrow...I'll be in Chicago for a week on business starting Sunday and I'd really like to get the engine back in the tractor.

#9 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 11:15 PM

Ya Utah...this is totally 'fixable' so while it was an inconvenience...this is definitely NOT the end of the world...tomorrow afternoon you'll have this tractor purring like a kitten...

#10 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 11:54 PM

Glad you came up with the solution. I'd hate to leave with a half baked project in the works also. In fact I have a hard time walking away from any project. I usually don't stop to eat until I have started feeling edgy.

#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 03:23 AM

Sorry to hear this, Smitty! The shop will fix it the best way, whether weld or braze. Just order a new gasket so you have that when you get back.
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#12 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 04:50 AM

Glad to hear the shop will be able to fix it for you.Personally I would weld it,and not braze it,but either way will work.
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#13 Arti ONLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 08:29 AM

Sorry for the setback,

I don't know what to think on this one, I had one welded and it seeped oil a bit It's ok for a tractor that is used but would not be one to take to the county fair.. lol

I would suspect that brazing would be easier to get an oil tight seal. This also depends on the skill of the person doing the welding i suppose.

Good luck on the repair !!

#14 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 09:44 AM

As far as the gasket, I've made several out of the gasket material with no problems. So, if you can't find the one 'today' make your own...they work great...GL
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#15 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 11:15 AM

Sorry about the setback Smitty.

Repairing cast is somewhat touchy but can readily be repaired in many fashions. Brazing, nickle arc welding, TIG , etc.. I've tried them all with varying results from brilliant to disasterous results . :lol:

If you have the part with you , head over to Tom's welding in Eagle, WI. , they are not far from Chicago proper, maybe an hour or so to the northwest.. Very talented fellows and reasonable as well. They have done a few cast repairs for us ( that were beyond my talents at the time) and are worth every penny. :worshippy1:

http://www.tomswelding.com/
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