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#16 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 09:06 PM

Couple things I'd ask about before going farther. What classes would the streached frame and diesel be okay in ? Do you have to use a GT rear or not ?

If it's okay
I'd scrap the rear in it and find a 71/4 Chrysler from a Panzer and bolt that in for the rear. Drop the motor in and use a trans from an Economy and a clutch from either Lakota or Vogel. and the mounts from a cub. As for the gearing if you overlap the rear input and the shaft from the cluth , you can run sprockets with 60 chain and adjust easily.That way your using all garden tractor parts also.

Duane


Well this could work but to a point. And it seems like alot of mess to get in to not saying its a bad idea or anything but its alot of work to do for a rearend. If you were to find an economy tranny im sure there on the pricey side and with all the gearing and such. And for someone who would be new to this I would just recommend sticking with the cub rearend for knowing that they can holdup and knowing that parts are easy to get to. But the idea is welcomed! :thumbs:
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#17 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 09:12 PM

Welcome to the forum! Glad to have you. All I can say about pulling is....FULL THROTTLE... because I just don't know.

Edited by cookiemonster, September 05, 2012 - 09:12 PM.

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#18 scarecrow1990 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 12:58 PM

Baerpath, funny story the guy I bought that deere from has everything youd ever want. I went over and found a 8.75 chrysler axle, so I asked him about it and he told me I could just have it . Nothing is froze up or anything as it was setting inside. so I am going to have it narrowed by another guy that said he'd help me with that. And also you can run a diesel with the gas engines around here, and with a streched frame I can run in like a super stock class.

Dieselcubmike, Since I can run in a super stock class I am probably not going to have a whole lot of internal engine mods, becuase there is a cubic inch limit on the motor, but it is NOT limited to naturally asperated so I can run a turbo as long as the motor is within the cubic inch limit.

And yeah I was watching youtube videos of people from Ohio that are tinkering around with them and they have takin like 20 hp yanmars engines and now running more then 100 + hp out of them thats crazy.

And has anyone ever heard of a Hatz Diesel? I have the chance to buy an 80 horse 4 cyl for pretty cheap. But then ill be running with full blown mini rods so I dont know about that quite yet.
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#19 scarecrow1990 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 01:01 PM

I am still thinking about the cub rear end (what model, internal or external brakes etc) just becuase of the whole trans like you said, it was free so Ill pick it up anyways.

Also thanks all for the warm welcome!!!!!!!

Edited by scarecrow1990, September 06, 2012 - 01:06 PM.


#20 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 02:02 PM

I've heard of hatz before they seem like a good company. But that would e a little unfair for the super stock drivers lol.. But now comes some homework for you. Since your getting a turbo, you know to think about what size you want to run. This is fairly easy to point out but its a little on the expensive side but boost is what helps a diesel along.
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#21 scarecrow1990 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 06:25 PM

yeah lol I know thats kind of what I thought about the whole cubic inch limit plus the whole turbo thing. I thought it was a little backwards myself. And the whole turbo setup I was thinking about one that came off of a smart car, or a stage 1 turbo that came off of a chevy cobalt or HHR, or as my very last resource find one that came off of an old toyota MR2 spider.

I dont think that they would produce to much boost, but I am a bit worried about the size, and being able to stay on top of the turbo and keep it spooled up, I dont want to let out of the clutch and my turbo shutter and loose all my boost.

Also I have found a cub cadet 1200 manual transmission and transaxle, thats shaft driven will that be a good one to get a hold of?

thanks again for all your advice and support.

Lucas
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#22 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 08:44 PM

The transmission yes if its a 3 speed. That will be your starting point http://www.ebay.com/...e-/110907476361

Thats what it should look like. And as far as the turbo, you dont want to go too big that your not making any boost but you want to go too small that you blow the impellars out of the stack lol ive seen it done its not pretty. Right now im making about 22lbs of boost with nothing done to the motor other than a heavy govener spring so thats in the ballpark of where you want to be. Garret ihi and certain oem turbos are good to use. Id go with garret because of their ceramic ballbearing turbos which are very easy to spin but are alot more expensive. I have an ihi rb4 model which they used on the old mazda rx-7 models but i bought mine for about 350$ so its not too bad.
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#23 scarecrow1990 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 09:38 PM

ok this is the one that I am looking a buying just dont want to buy it if its not the right one.......http://www.ebay.com/...forcev4exp=true

I have tried to look up about it but was unable to find anything on how many gears it had unless I just overlooked it in the post on ebay or if I just overlooked it on the internet somewhere. I might go with the same setup unless i feel like shelling out the cash for the garret turbo.......are rebuild kits fairly easy to get ahold of for the 1105?

I found one but it doesnt run, I do not know whats wrong with it. But i figured if rebuild kits were easy to get then I might take a chance on it, but my luck its got something wrong with the head lol not the rotating assembly.

#24 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 10:18 PM

Yes thats the correct rearend. Garretts are anywhere from 500-1200 depending on what model you get. Remember diesels are alot more exspensive than gas motors. I think the last time I got a rebuild price was somewhere around 450-500? Might be somewhere around there but you need to know what your doing or else youll wipe out the whole motor and have to start over lol..I got mine off ebay for 1500$ so it wasnt too bad it had just under 1000 hours on it.
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#25 scarecrow1990 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 10:29 AM

Yeah I have been kinda looking around on ebay for some, I just havent found one that I couldnt live without I have also been looking locally and a little bit of everywhere.

Since that is the right one I am going to order it. I am still on the fence about that one that doesnt run.


Thanks for all the help there is still more questions to come.


thanks again

Lucas
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#26 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 11:14 AM

Scarecrow, welcome to GTTAlk! Glad to see you've hooked up with some folks who can answer your question. I've read this thread now and seen which direction you are headed in and would like to make a suggestion, even though I know nothing about GT pulling. Massey made some really heavy duty tractors that are barely larger than garden tractors, like the 1010 here:
http://www.tractorda...guson-1010.html
Also, I think Bolens and some other makers put out some really heavy duty small tractors. Is it possible that something like this would be a better fit for what you are trying to do? Put a turbo on an existing engine and a transmission that has been professionally enginered. Just a suggestion, and I look forward to seeing whatever you do.

#27 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 04:01 PM

Yeah I have been kinda looking around on ebay for some, I just havent found one that I couldnt live without I have also been looking locally and a little bit of everywhere.

Since that is the right one I am going to order it. I am still on the fence about that one that doesnt run.


Thanks for all the help there is still more questions to come.


thanks again

Lucas


Not a problem hope my information has helped! always a pleasure helping :thumbs:
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#28 scarecrow1990 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 04:29 PM

HowardsMF155, and Dieselcubmike, I appreciate all the support and answers that I have got.

I am going to be doing some serious shopping here for the next couple days.

thanks as always

Lucas
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#29 baerpath OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 09:51 PM

Well this could work but to a point. And it seems like alot of mess to get in to not saying its a bad idea or anything but its alot of work to do for a rearend. If you were to find an economy tranny im sure there on the pricey side and with all the gearing and such. And for someone who would be new to this I would just recommend sticking with the cub rearend for knowing that they can holdup and knowing that parts are easy to get to. But the idea is welcomed! :thumbs:


Yup works to a point, thats what is in our diesel other than the clutch, the Cat will have the same.
Duane

#30 scarecrow1990 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 10:52 PM

well now I have some bad news...my local gt pulling club reviewed the rules and took away the diesels becuase there wasnt anyone that was pulling them, so now they have added twin super stock, which is rediculous. But looks like I am forced to run a cast Iron 25 horse twin cylinder block, with factory head, running on pump gas, and all these other rules.

Since I am forced to change classes now I want to know

1 Will my factory deere rear end hold up with belt drive since i might be pushing way over 50 horse? Or would it smoke the belts around the pulleys?

or would is still be beneficial for me to run a shaft driven rear end?




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