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The Ad Said Jd 317 Needs Tlc - How Could I Resist!


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#121 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 06:36 PM

Good to see you are looking at 'other' things as you go back together! It should be sweet when you go to start it!


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#122 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 07:50 PM

Good to see you are looking at 'other' things as you go back together! It should be sweet when you go to start it!

 

I really want to get this running but the starter is difficult to service once the engine is back in the tractor and pretty easy to deal with now. 



#123 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 07:58 PM

Forgot to mention the engine work I've done. Made the gaskets for the breather covers and installed the new reed valve plate. I checked the timing and it was firing late and the points were pitted. I had a set of points so I changed them out and timed it. Got the carb off the manifold without damaging anything and cleaned up the manifold. The carb throttle bushing is pretty tight but the governor shaft is loose. The carb was set rich compared to the factory settings. The timing being off and the rich carb setup might have contributed to the sooty plugs. The air filter was also soaked in oil which couldn't have helped. Even with these things wrong it still started almost instantly. I hope it still starts that well when I'm finished with it. 


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#124 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 09:11 PM

Just read this whole thread now, looks like your getting it done. Good Stuff. :thumbs:

I'll be watching the to see the rest of this project.

I have 2 JD300 series tractors, complete but not running, have wanted to get them working just too many other things on the go.


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#125 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2013 - 05:41 AM

Just read this whole thread now, looks like your getting it done. Good Stuff. :thumbs:

I'll be watching the to see the rest of this project.

I have 2 JD300 series tractors, complete but not running, have wanted to get them working just too many other things on the go.

The 300 is pretty much the same as the 317 accept for engine related changes. I know I'm going to want to re power this but since it has a U joint driveshaft it's not as hard to do as the singles which just have shaft couplers and need a straight run to the transmission. The steering is generally a big item in terms of wear and expense on these. This one is pretty much new or used replacement parts all the way from the wheel bearings to the steering wheel. I do need to find another steering gear though. This one was damaged previously and there is a rough spot on centre. It's the shaft worm gear that's damaged. It's working reasonably well but there is a fair bit of slack at the ends of the gear due to not being able to adjust it tight in the centre. 


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#126 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2013 - 02:49 PM

Brian I just read your entire thread as my shoulder replacement recovery begins. I have a lot of stuff marked to read that I was avoiding until now. Thanks so much for all the info & the time you took to document your restore. I have been doing a MF12Hydro but everything is of coarse on hold for now. There's so much to comment on & would be repeating but the motor mounts will be interesting to see how they work. Your dash tower looks awesome. Looking forward to your progress. 


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#127 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2013 - 08:00 PM

Brian I just read your entire thread as my shoulder replacement recovery begins. I have a lot of stuff marked to read that I was avoiding until now. Thanks so much for all the info & the time you took to document your restore. I have been doing a MF12Hydro but everything is of coarse on hold for now. There's so much to comment on & would be repeating but the motor mounts will be interesting to see how they work. Your dash tower looks awesome. Looking forward to your progress. 

Thanks for having a look at this topic. My father has had both shoulders replaced and I know the recovery can take quite a while.  He now has nearly 100% mobility and is pain free! I hope the recovery process goes well for you. You should have quite a bit of reading material from this forum to help pass the time. 


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#128 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2013 - 10:10 PM

Looking good Brian, waiting to hear how those engine mounts work. The paint on the looks fantastic also. Nice job.


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#129 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2013 - 06:01 AM

Looking good Brian, waiting to hear how those engine mounts work. The paint on the looks fantastic also. Nice job.

 

Brian, I hope to finish the engine today and try to mount it although it won't be running. Too many other things to do today. I ran into a couple of issues that need attention but nothing serious. 



#130 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2013 - 06:17 AM

Brian, I hope to finish the engine today and try to mount it although it won't be running. Too many other things to do today. i ran into a couple of issues that need attention but nothing serious. 

There is always something that needs attention. Best to take care of that now!



#131 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2013 - 06:52 PM

I got the engine installed yesterday and tonight I got the tank installed and the fuel line run from the tank up to the engine. The engine was difficult to get back into the tractor with the new mounts. It would have been easier with a second person to help. The new mounts have a stud which sticks up 3/4". The engine shaft had to be slid onto the coupler and then lowered onto the mounts. With the increased height it was a tight fit to get the drive shaft high enough to get the coupler on. It fit but just barely. It may have been easier to lower the rear mounts a bit and then tighten them up afterwards. One thing I find strange is that the shaft does not engage that far into the U joint coupler. You can see the edge of the key sticking out. The engine is in the correct place, with the new mounts centred on the holes where the old ones mounted. I looked back in my photos before i disassembled it and it was like that when I got it. It seems to me that a longer coupler shaft or a spacer to move the coupler back might help the durability of the coupling. I got the tank installed and since the original valve is stuck on, as they always seem to be, I installed a fuel shutoff and a filter in line. I cleaned out the tank and blew it out with compressed air. I want to prime the line before connecting it to the fuel pump. I also made a flywheel screen from an old chassis with a perforated cover. It doesn't completely cover the flywheel but gets most of it. It just had to cover it with something. I wouldn't feel safe with it in the open. 

 

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#132 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2013 - 07:20 AM

Looks great! 


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#133 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2013 - 04:59 PM

Got the console on tonight. Installed the steering wheel and the finicky parking brake/interlock linkage. Took me about 1/2 hour just to install that linkage with all it's cotter pins, some of which are located under the frame and difficult to access.  It looks like I'll need to tighten the brakes some. They aren't grabbing tight even when the parking brake is in the last notch. I have a cap for the wheel and a new centre decal which I need to install. 

 

 

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#134 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2013 - 05:21 PM

Looks like it is coming along good, Brian! Hope she fires right off!



#135 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2013 - 07:23 PM

I'm hoping to try to fire up the engine this weekend. I need to get some of the wiring sorted out first. I'm pretty much having to re wire the whole thing. It has an  almost new clutch and stator. The ignition switch and regulator have also been replaced not too long ago. I had to destroy the light switch to get it off the panel and I have a different style of illuminated switch to put in there for now.


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