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The Ad Said Jd 317 Needs Tlc - How Could I Resist!


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#91 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2013 - 03:24 PM

Hey, we're not gonna be looking inside at those welds anyway.  Long as they hold, that's what's important!  Great work on this dash tower!   


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#92 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2013 - 04:08 PM

Don't feel bad Brian, I did that yesterday with my camera.  I took one picture and the card was full! :wallbanging: :wallbanging:  Not with my pictures either.  The tower is looking good!


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#93 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2013 - 07:17 PM

Thanks guys! I'm pretty happy with how it's going. I'm going to bring in the fender deck and mount it on the tractor so I can fine tune the position of the console before adding the bottom bracket(3/4" angle iron). I've decided to bolt the angle to the frame and then bolt the bottom of the console sides to nuts welded to the back side of the angle. I've got the 314 to look at to make sure I have clearance. The bolt heads will be below the fender deck so they won't show. It's nearly impossible to unbolt the console from the frame side on one of these especially if they are a bit rusty. This will be easier access. 



#94 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2013 - 10:15 PM

Looks good JD., you really did a nice job fabing up the new side panels. :thumbs:


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#95 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2013 - 05:58 AM

A bit more progress this week. I got the brackets done for the console mount including welding 1/4" nuts onto them, which wasn't as easy as I thought. I ended up welding 1 nut to the bolt I had holding it in place. I was able to cut that off and got it the second time. 

  Got the new battery tray and the rear wheels painted. I hate prepping wheels for painting. These ones were really rusted with some deep pitting in close to the rim centre. It looks like it was sitting outside for a while and water laid in one of the rims while the other was in pretty good shape. The end result is always nice though! 

 

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#96 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2013 - 06:05 AM

The rims look good Brian. As you said, it's always nice to see the end result.


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#97 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2013 - 06:15 AM

That looks real good, Brian! On the glasses and welding, I found a pair of reading glasses that I liked to use when welding. Didn't have to worry about the progressive lenses that way.


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#98 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2013 - 04:30 PM

That looks real good, Brian! On the glasses and welding, I found a pair of reading glasses that I liked to use when welding. Didn't have to worry about the progressive lenses that way.

 

I never thought of that Kenny. I'll try to find some that work. It's been better since I got the helmet on properly. I still have trouble seeing the molten pool of metal. I really need a proper welding table so I am more comfortable and can set things up easier and more securely. 


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#99 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2013 - 05:42 PM

I always have trouble with the pool. I just started to make small circles as I weld and things come out looking pretty good!



#100 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2013 - 01:19 PM

Time for another update. I got the console painted and I've been finding more small parts and hardware that need cleaning and painting. I've also got the rear end ready to go with some new paint and a replaced axle and seal. I've started working on the front brace that holds the front of the hood and the grill. It was really rusty on one side but I think I've figured out how to fix it. I've reassembled the hydro valve, remote lines and cylinder to the frame. 

 

First the console. I gave it a good coat of etching primer and then the Tremclad JD Green. I got a few sags but nothing too serious. 

 

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The Front Brace - Pretty rotten at the bottom on one side. 

 

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I decided to weld a piece of 1/8" to the inside and drilled and cut the holes to match. I am then going to weld a spacer to the inside face of the 1/8" steel so that the force from the mounting bolt goes directly into the new piece and not into the edge of the brace which will be repaired with long hair fibreglass and fill to restore the original shape. I got a start on that today. Got the holes cut and test fitted it. 

 

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Some reassembly has begun. Hydraulic valve, lines and cylinder added to bare frame. 

 

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#101 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2013 - 01:42 PM

Forgot some stuff so I'll add it here. Some pictures of the rear end and I've also started to work on the engine. It took a lot of work to get all the grease and dirt off the engine. The tin is pretty beat up as well and I'm not being too fussy with it. It's a series 1 engine so it could cough up a rod any time. I'm going to give it a basic tune up and replace the crankcase breather plate with the reed valve in it. It was starting and running decent when I got it but smoked a bit for the first minute or so when started after sitting for a while. The bigger issue with the engine is the motor mounts which were all pretty much shot due to age and being soaked in oil. I'm making some new mounts and hope they work as it will be a cheaper alternative than the very expensive stock mounts. I plan to start on that soon. 

 

Some pics of the rear end- The axles are strong on these. 30mm dia. at the bearing. 

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Painted, brakes serviced and a new axle/seal. 

 

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#102 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2013 - 01:56 PM

What are you using to make mounts?  I have wondered if there is a large poly bushing from the auto world that could be adapted to work.  



#103 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2013 - 02:08 PM

I've got some 1.5" diameter "flex bolt sandwich mounts" that I sourced from RPM mechanical. Part no. J-11729-126. The trick is to mount them so that you get the same engine height as stock. It's not super critical on the 317 as it has u joints on the drive shaft but on a 314 it needs to be close.  I will document this in a separate thread as I do it. I think this will work but it needs testing to prove it. 


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#104 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2013 - 02:13 PM

I'm continuing to paint small parts and engine tin. I got the motor mounts figured out and mounted although there were a few wrinkles to iron out along the way. Also got the frame out in the garage and have started assembling the steering. Heres some pics of the mounts. This is really an experiement. I wanted to find a cheaper way of replacing the mounts on these tractors. The JD factory mounts cost at least 200$ for the 4 of them. We'll see how this works out. It's not hard to do but does take a bit of time to line everything up, cut the metal and drill the holes. I am using 4 identical mounts 1.5" diameter and 1" high. They have the same stiffness as the stock front mounts. The front ones are mounted on a 3/8" metal spacer to bring them up to the correct height. The rear ones are mounted 1/4" below the bottom of the frame on a 3/8" plate with 1/4" spacers to lower it to the correct height. Because the 317 has u joints in the drive shaft the height doesn't have to be exact but this will be very close to stock height. Here are some photos. I'll show some detailed pics of the mounts with part no's and dimensions in another thread if this works out OK. 

 

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#105 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2013 - 07:37 PM

Another update. Got the steering gear installed, the mounts for the console ,the hydro linkage and the brake pedals, parking brake actuator. I had some trouble putting it back together. it seems everywhere I had a new shaft and a new bushing for it to go through the painted shaft would not fit. I had to sand them or wire wheel the paint off to get it to fit. I also mounted the motor mounts on the chassis. The mounts had a shoulder on the mounting bolt that I didn't notice. I had to enlarge the top bit of the mounting hole to get them to sit flush. There are a lot of little problems to solve along the way. I got the hood and engine covers out and sanded the paint splatters off of them. I started filling all the divots in the hood late this afternoon. 

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