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The Ad Said Jd 317 Needs Tlc - How Could I Resist!


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#46 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2012 - 05:56 AM

I'm going to try putting it back in top shape. It's a much better candidate for a re power than the 314 due to having a driveshaft with u joints, 2 hydraulic circuits and dual brakes. It's rough in spots but has had a lot of parts replaced already.

#47 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 04:59 PM

I decided to strip it down to the frame. I have the frame and rear end separated and only the brake shaft is left on the frame. I got a good look at the welding repair after getting all the grease/dirt off the frame. The plate and braces that hold the steering gear and hydro linkage is off kilter and I can see the problem. The bottom of the plate and the brace are welded about 3/16" from the original position. You can see the old weld in this photo.

DSCF8139.jpg

#48 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 08:27 PM

Brian, Meangreen, my BIL, bought a 317 a few years ago with a "windowed" block. We repowered it with an Onan BF 16hp. Easy enough being a u-jointed driveshaft. We redone the engine mount plate, then modded the driveshaft, plus I turned a driveshaft to flywheel adapter on my lathe. Never a problem with the repower, and she runs strong today still!
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#49 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2012 - 05:30 AM

These are tough old tractors Daniel. The driveshaft on this one is nearly new. There was some slack at the engine end and it looks like the woodruff key is quite worn. I don't know if the flywheel adapter key slot is worn or not until I get the new key in it. The shaft is OK. Is it worth using some locktight on that key if it's a bit loose, something like 609 that will fill narrow gaps or should I get another key slot milled in the shaft, or is a little slack OK? I don't want to lunch the new shaft. Much of these driveshaft issues could be reduced if the motor mounts were replaced when they get cracked or broken. The extra movement in the engine causes problems in the rest of the drivetrain. There is one bad on the front and one on it's way out in the rear so the engine has been flopping around a bit more than it should.

#50 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2012 - 08:33 AM

On Fred's repower, I adapted a Massey MF14 drive shaft, as his OE was shot. Also, we went with a solid mounting plate instead of rubber mounting.

#51 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2012 - 10:03 PM

On Fred's repower, I adapted a Massey MF14 drive shaft, as his OE was shot. Also, we went with a solid mounting plate instead of rubber mounting.


I would think that one of the new v-twins would be smoother and not need the rubber mounts.

#52 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 03:35 PM

Got the frame repaired today. It turned out to be a bit more work than i expected to get everything lined back up. The bent bracket had to be bent in one direction then pushed forward then the top bent downwards to line everything up as per the factory welds. it was handy having the 314 there to measure the position of everything. Heres some pics.

These were taken after I started straightening things up. Initially the narrow brace was about 3/4" above the frame and off to the right about 3/8".
DSCF8164.jpg DSCF8166.jpg


In these 2 shots I have it held in place with a clamp so I can tack weld it.
DSCF8167.jpg DSCF8168.jpg


On the 314 this is only welded on one side. The side in the right hand picture. There was a bit of a gap to fill and I got it pretty good. A bit messy, but when looked at from the other side it looks like the weld penetrated at least half way through. I took a shot at the other side but it was so awkward I only got the bottom 3/4" or so.
DSCF8174.jpg DSCF8170.jpg

Heres the narrow brace. I got the front side of it in the left hand picture and got a weld on the back side all the way across that is hard to see in the right hand picture. I then tried to fill it in which you can see on the right side of the weld but decided to quit while I was ahead.
DSCF8173.jpg DSCF8176.jpg

I also put a spot of weld on one of the brake stop pins that was bending due to only being welded on one side at the factory. See below.
DSCF8177.jpg

A few things I learned today - It's a lot easier to weld a perfectly setup practice piece laying flat on your bench than to do a real world job where things don't fit tight and are in awkward hard to get at places. For all these welds I flipped the frame around so I could weld horizontal. That thing weighs close to 100 lbs and I'm getting a bit tired of moving it around!
I started out trying to weld in the sun and the helmet kept darkening just from ambient light and reflections. Had to move to a shady spot as it helps if I can see to start the arc.
It sure is handy having this little welder. I've saved myself maybe 60$ so far this week but my welder guy is out that much beer money! It turned out pretty straight, measures the same as the 314 frame and everything should be in alignment when it goes back together.
I also drilled out a stuck bolt in the frame and straightened a bit of a bend in one side of the rear section. Next I'm going to finish sanding/grinding the inside of the frame and paint it. I think I'll brush on semi gloss black tremclad for the hard to reach areas.
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#53 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 04:04 PM

Looks good, Brian! Welds are looking much better!
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#54 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 07:25 PM

My next project will be a new battery tray to replace the rusted out one. That will make a good practice piece.

#55 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2012 - 07:42 PM

Got an old inner tube around? I used that on the bottom and holder for the battery tray on the Ford. Just keeps metal from being in direct contact with the battery.
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#56 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2012 - 04:30 AM

I had an old rubber mat that i cut a piece out of for the 314 battery when i rebuilt it last summer. The rest of it is probably still here somewhere. An old inner tube is a good idea though.

#57 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2012 - 07:00 AM

I just thought it might help protect the battery case from the vibration a bit better.

#58 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2012 - 11:06 AM

Got it painted yesterday. Pics to follow.
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#59 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2012 - 05:25 PM

Got the frame painted. Semi gloss black. Brushed on to the hard to get at areas and sprayed on the rest. Had a perfect day for painting and it dried quickly. Heres some pics

DSCF8178.jpg DSCF8179.jpg

DSCF8180.jpg

Next up will be starting to clean up and paint the rear end and get it ready to join back to the frame. I want to get that done and the front axle back on before it gets too cold. Then I 'll be able to roll it and store it out of the way.

#60 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2012 - 09:44 PM

Looking real good! You make me want to see if the 317 that is sitting in pieces in a yard down the street could be purchased. I know the KT17 is toast again.
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