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The Ad Said Jd 317 Needs Tlc - How Could I Resist!


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#16 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 06:19 AM

The ag's make a big difference to me my yard is not flat & in winter most everything I have to plow is up hill. Can't wait to try it out.


The thing about AG's is that they are pretty much useless on ice. I had a set on a JDx475 and I also have a hill to plow up to the road. I needed chains for sure. I would think about picking up a set of chains if you tend to get ice on your hill or even if you get a lot of heavy snow. In that size they are not too pricey and make a huge difference.

#17 fishman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 06:26 AM

I've got chain with ice bars on them ready to go. As far as the oil mine came from the oil filler port. When I got it the po had a rag shoved in it & handed me the plug said it wouldn't stay in. Here is first temp. Fix. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346844352.304603.jpg
When I get home I'll take picture of how it looks now. I just used iron pipe with cap.

#18 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 07:06 AM

Brian, it may have problems, but it also has a lot of potential.

Glad it found a good home.

#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 07:18 AM

I've got chain with ice bars on them ready to go. As far as the oil mine came from the oil filler port. When I got it the po had a rag shoved in it & handed me the plug said it wouldn't stay in. Here is first temp. Fix. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346844352.304603.jpg
When I get home I'll take picture of how it looks now. I just used iron pipe with cap.

I would check the crankcase breather, it's probably plugged and that is why it blows the dip stick out.

Brian, I have faith in you. That tractor won't be like that for long. Don't forget to keep us updated though. :camera:
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#20 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 07:25 AM

I've got chain with ice bars on them ready to go. As far as the oil mine came from the oil filler port. When I got it the po had a rag shoved in it & handed me the plug said it wouldn't stay in. Here is first temp. Fix. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346844352.304603.jpg
When I get home I'll take picture of how it looks now. I just used iron pipe with cap.



Thanks. A PO gouged a gap in the gasket that seals the oil filler cap into the tube so it would act as a vent. I find it odd that the crankcase breather tube ends right inside the shrouding near the top front of the right cylinder. If any oil came out the breather it would end up all over the front of the cylinder and be pushed by the cooling air all over the front of the tractor. I will probably try running some Seafoam through the engine. My K321 was tossing oil out the breather but after de carboning the head and piston that problem went away. I may have to pull the heads but the Seafoam is worth a try.

#21 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 07:31 AM

I would check the crankcase breather, it's probably plugged and that is why it blows the dip stick out.

Brian, I have faith in you. That tractor won't be like that for long. Don't forget to keep us updated though. :camera:


Kenny, I need to get a couple of seized nuts off the manifolds before I can get at the breather. I'm sure it hasn't been serviced for ages. That's poor design IMO attaching engine shrouds onto manifold studs. There is one bolt on the bottom of the right cylinder shroud that is almost impossible to get at. I managed to get it off but it took about 1/2 hour. The shroud had not been off for a long time and was full of oil and grass. This engine is not nearly as easy to work on as the K singles.

#22 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 08:22 AM

Brian, The breather part was directed to fishman. The manifold bolts/nuts can be a bummer. If you can fire it up, warm the nuts real good and melt some wax into them. Or use the acetone/ATF mix.
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#23 fishman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 09:45 AM

Got the breather cleaned out some good sea foam doesn't blow oil anymore.
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#24 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 10:22 AM

Brian, congratulations on your 317. Really cool steering wheel, who wouldn't want one like that?

Looks like a nice project.
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#25 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 02:03 PM

Brian, The breather part was directed to fishman. The manifold bolts/nuts can be a bummer. If you can fire it up, warm the nuts real good and melt some wax into them. Or use the acetone/ATF mix.


Kenny, I bought a nut splitter and it may be the easiest thing to do. Just the name of that tool makes me nervous! Have you ever used one before?

#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 03:20 PM

Kenny, I bought a nut splitter and it may be the easiest thing to do. Just the name of that tool makes me nervous! Have you ever used one before?

Yes, but it's been years. If you can get it on there real square to the nut, it should work good. That's the main thing, being square to the nut side you will cut. I have used an air grinder and cut most of one side off if I could get in there. Sometimes, the heat from doing that and the 'thinner' side would break it loose. Don't know what you have going/space to work in. Might look into hi-temp anti-seize when you go back together.
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#27 ggsteve OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 06:38 PM

Good luck with the 317. I love mine. That's good news about the drive shaft, I guess it's a common, difficult and expensive problem to fix.
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#28 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 06:55 PM

Good luck with the 317. I love mine. That's good news about the drive shaft, I guess it's a common, difficult and expensive problem to fix.


Yes the PO said the drive shaft was over 300$. The new shaft has a bit of play on the engine end so I am going to pull the engine out to see where the wear is. It feels like it's the key way. It could be the keyway in the engine adapter. If so, I can get another adapter or get a new keyway cut. The hydro end and the u joints are tight. I notice that this driveshaft has grease fittings on it. I'm not sure that the original did.

#29 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 06:59 PM

Yes, but it's been years. If you can get it on there real square to the nut, it should work good. That's the main thing, being square to the nut side you will cut. I have used an air grinder and cut most of one side off if I could get in there. Sometimes, the heat from doing that and the 'thinner' side would break it loose. Don't know what you have going/space to work in. Might look into hi-temp anti-seize when you go back together. I have some anti seize and it will get some when I put it back together.



One of the nuts is not even tightened down. It's a good 1/4" from the manifold. That one I can get a clear shot at with the nut splitter. The other one has the clamp for the breather tube bolted under it so is not accessible. I thought of sawing or grinding through it as you suggested. I am putting the penetrating oil to it and will try some heat and see if it comes loose before I start cutting it off. It doesn't look promising.
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#30 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 06:52 AM

With the heat, get it to move some and try the candle wax while warm. It will wick in where other stuff will just boil off.. I used to have some dies that were six sided like nuts for cleaning threads. I would use them to clean the threads up to the nut before I tried to take it off. Don't know where they went, haven't seen them for a while!
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