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My Ht20-- Pictures And Questions


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#1 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 04:56 PM

Well as some have seen, I got very lucky this week and came across a nice Bolens 800, 4 Bolens projects or parts machines(1055,1053,g10,1453) and the one machine I've always wanted, a large frame!
Well after some futher investigating, and some tinkering Ive found some issues, and more info on it. The only tag I can read or find is on top of the motor. It says 2072, which makes me think its a ht20?? Also it has 2 exhaust issues. Someone hacked on a muffler and pipe and never braced it. Well after time it has snapped 2 studs, and the right lower exhaust manifold ear right off. I'm not sure if thats what its called, but I'm talking about the cast-iron part that the muffler bolts onto with 4 bolts or studs. So what I'm wondering is how should I go about repairing it?? I have a few ideas, but Im just wondering what everyone has done in the past. Also what does everyone do for the exhaust pipe to muffler system repair/replacement??
Another concern is the previous owner said the deck was scrap?? The shell is totally solid, theres just alittle rot in on side skirt, which is a simple fix, also he said the deck keeps throwing, and destroying belts. Anyone know why it might keep eating and throwing belts?
The previous owner also bypassed the ignition switch because he said it was "smoked" inside. He wired up a wierd toggle switch and push button that kinda floats around the engine compartment. I tried to wire in a aftermarket switch, but it doesn't seem to want to work for me. If some one has a link to a wiring diagram or service manual that I can print, that be a huge help.
Lastly, I would like to some day restore the machine, but for now I already have too many projects started. So for now I'd like to keep it as a running, work horse. So I would like to do the normal maintenece and fluid changes to make sure its ready to go. What do I need to do so?? I see the motor and hydro have oil filters, Where do I find replacements?? and what oil is needed. Is there anything that I should check that people usually neglect or forget to do??
Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks, enjoy the pics!!

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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 05:12 PM

Looks like she was run hard and put away wet many times.....
I probably would go through the entire tractor to make sure all bolts/ linkages are tightened and where they should be as it appears the previous owners would just hack up and cobble parts together to keep it running.

As for the deck, I would make sure the pulleys are clean and aligned. I would also look into getting a good quality belt (Preferably Kevlar)

Here's the service manual http://gardentractor...service-manual/

Owners Manual : http://gardentractor...-owners-manual/

Partslist http://gardentractor...ens-ht-20-2086/


I'll leave the rest to the largeframe guys as they know far more about it than I do :D
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#3 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 06:00 PM

If the engine runs well and does not smoke I would change all fluids at a minmum. Bolens1000 pretty much said it all. A very good inspection of the linkages would be a good idea. It has probably been used a lot and will need a lot of work. Best of luck I hope it works out for you.

#4 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 06:04 PM

Thanks Brian, It is alittle rough, but I couldn't leave it when the previous owner FINALLY agreed to take the rest of my secret stash money and all my lunch money for the week for it($218). I will have to go over the whole machine, lube and grease everything, repair a few things, I would love to tear it down, but I already have the Bolens "mutt" tore down. The funny thing is I keep finding golf balls hidden, and tucked up in the tractor.

#5 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 06:17 PM

From the looks of it it is a model 2087 HT20 and a early serial number due to the metal gas tank. Does it run and have you checked the hydro if it does. What is that big push button on the motor for to start it?

Edited by bhts, September 03, 2012 - 06:18 PM.


#6 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 07:15 PM

From the looks of it it is a model 2087 HT20 and a early serial number due to the metal gas tank. Does it run and have you checked the hydro if it does. What is that big push button on the motor for to start it?

Yea it does have a metal tank, and it does run. I have checked the hydro fluid, its alittle dirty, and I have driven it around for about 5 min., it seems to be ok. What other way is there to check it??
The big push button is the half fast repair the p.o. made for the bad ignition switch. I tried hooking up another switch, but I didn't know if it was good in the 1st place, and it didn't work. So I tried a aftermarket one, and I couldn't get that to work either. I am going to look at a wiring diagram and try to figure out what is going on with it. But I have not got that far yet. I made the bracket up today so the switch and button were not just floating around the engine compartment, waiting to arc on some metal.
Another thing I did notice to was at idle it kinda surges alittle, and wants to stall. I cant see any carb adjustments, or even the carb really because of all the tins. If youn raise it off idle slightly it runs smooth and steady with no surging, spitting or sputtering. Should I run some cleaner through it, and change both plugs just incase the fuel is half bad, and the carb has some gunk in it from sitting for 1 1/2 years??
Anyone have any exhaust repair suggestions?? I was thinking of using a cherry bomb, or motorcycle muffler to replace the current rusted one, and for the manifold I was going to try to remove the broken studs, and see if it would seal with out the 4th bolt there, or I was going to remove the manifold assembly and see if I could buy one or repair it somehow.

Edited by fonz3482, September 03, 2012 - 08:01 PM.


#7 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 08:20 PM

Thanks Brian, It is alittle rough, but I couldn't leave it when the previous owner FINALLY agreed to take the rest of my secret stash money and all my lunch money for the week for it($218). I will have to go over the whole machine, lube and grease everything, repair a few things, I would love to tear it down, but I already have the Bolens "mutt" tore down. The funny thing is I keep finding golf balls hidden, and tucked up in the tractor.

did i read the right GOLF BALLS ???? LOL HAHA maybe it was a grounds mower once in its life LOL Golf Balls

#8 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 08:48 PM

The key switch 1721409 is costly and may be the reason the last guy cobbled it up this way. So far i have never found a aftermarket switch that would work to replace it. As for the rough idle i would clean the carb mayber a rebuild kit and see if there is any play in the throttle shaft. The adjustment for the carb is on the top under the air cleaner. The exaust mainfold will need all 4 bolts or you be replacing the gasket often. I have seen people use a muffler from a ford 8n to replace the orginal.
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#9 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 08:51 PM

did i read the right GOLF BALLS ???? LOL HAHA maybe it was a grounds mower once in its life LOL Golf Balls

Yea, I bought it at a driving range. It lived its life mowing the driving range until the deck started throwing the belt all the time, then they used it to pull some reel mowers for awhile. Check out my tube frame attachment thread, I listed the whole long story there. I realized that my attachment thread kinda went way off topic from the orginal title, so I started a new thread to focus on the large frame. Im not sure how to move the story over here, and its really LONG to re-write, but it was kinda a neat story. The tractor had dozens of golf balls all over it, I cleaned them all off at the range, and drove to meet my wife for dinner at a local restuarant, when I got there, one had appeared on the mower. I removed it so it would not bounce off while driving home. Well today there was another one on the deck. They just keep appearing!!
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#10 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 08:57 PM

The key switch 1721409 is costly and may be the reason the last guy cobbled it up this way. So far i have never found a aftermarket switch that would work to replace it. As for the rough idle i would clean the carb mayber a rebuild kit and see if there is any play in the throttle shaft. The adjustment for the carb is on the top under the air cleaner. The exaust mainfold will need all 4 bolts or you be replacing the gasket often. I have seen people use a muffler from a ford 8n to replace the orginal.

Do you know how much the switch is? Is the part where the exhaust flange bolts to a available item? or will I have to repair the current one some how?? Tomorrow at work I can finally print out all the manuals. That will probably help alot. I apoligize now if I'm asking dumb questions! Large Frames are a whole new beast to me.

#11 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2012 - 01:24 PM

It's not a diesel engine, right? I don't know much about large frames myself, but I know some of the HT20's I thought were diesel?

I love the new Bolens "mascot" the previous owner/operators put on the front of the hood between the headlights! It looks like it was repainted a few times and they didn't have decals to put on it so they threw on vinyl letters so that they could remember that it was a Bolens! lol... :bigrofl:

Good luck with it! The biggest thing I would check out with the deck are the pulleys. Some of the pulleys on my 850's deck were cracked or had chips broken off of them. They are cast iron, so they can be brittle with age. I'd at least try to clean some of the rust off of them and see if that will help. Can you take the pulleys off and have them sandblasted up a bit to clean them off? Then you can repaint them... If there are any burrs or rust spots on them that could be chewing up the belt.

Also, be sure the belt's path is clear and it is not hanging up on any dirt or debris on its way around the deck. If it is dragging on the surface of the deck, that will wear it prematurely too. If the belt tensioner spring is rusted or weak, that will wear the belt too since it will not have the proper tension on it. Like Bolens 1000 already said as well, having the PROPER belt is important too! Maybe the P/O didn't bother trying to find the correct belt for it since parts are hard to come by, so he got one that was too long or too short or the wrong width or the wrong type and it was wearing out too fast. (Plus, it just got used an awful lot, so IDK what he meant by it would throw the belt quickly.) Have you tested it at all to see how long it works for? Also, what did the P/O mean by it "throws" the belt? Does it just come off of the pulleys and has to be put back on or was it wearing out the belt prematurely and the belt would break off of the deck?

Edited by MailmAn, September 09, 2012 - 01:31 PM.


#12 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2012 - 03:40 PM

It's not a diesel engine, right? I don't know much about large frames myself, but I know some of the HT20's I thought were diesel? ...


Right...that's an HT20 with the Kohler K532S engine and Sundstrand Hydro

Even though they both have the '20' in the model number, the 20 and 20D are quite a bit different as the 23 and 20D have the Eaton 11 Hydro and two speed rear end.

The HT20D is basically an HT23 with the Wisconsin WD2-860 engine.
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