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Ford Lgt165 Is In My Shop. It Needs Some Tlc.


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#46 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2012 - 10:06 PM

Is that the 3/8" X 2" bar from the lift in front of the pedals going back? If so, I can get that later today. It also works for the sleeve hitch. I was going to upload a drawing this morning, but you can't read the measurements on it. I need to make up a new one. Should have it this evening some time.


Yes, Kenny, That's the one. Thank a bunch for the drawing.

#47 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2012 - 06:50 AM

Yes, Kenny, That's the one. Thank a bunch for the drawing.

One dimension i forgot to put in. The bar stock is 3/8" X 1-1/2".
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#48 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2012 - 01:25 AM

I greased and tightened up the steering box, and then went to look at the frnt axle pivot pin/bushings.
Why, why did they cast those lugs to the oil pan. :wallbanging:
The front bushing, is mostly there, but the rear bushing is gone, and the pin has worn a teardrop shape into the lug.
The bore in the axle is good, and the pin is worn badly where the lugs are.

Any wisdom, on how I might be able to fix this up, so it's good enough? It took 890 hrs to get it to this point.

Maybe a longer pin, and a shoulder bushing put in to the rear lug, from the backside.The shoulder could
rest against the bottom of the pan.

The pin is .625 and the lug looks to be worn out to .800 sideways, and of
course more in the top. Sorry, no pics. Hope I explained it clear enough.

#49 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2012 - 01:51 AM

Will, mine is the closed side, so the axle mount isn't made into the oil pan. Keith may be able to help you more with this fix.
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#50 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2012 - 06:24 AM

Will....Tightening that up will help tighten the steering up a lot. Notice how the whole axle flexes when you turn the wheel. My pin wasnt worn that bad. |I made a new bushing from a piece of 5/8 steel water pipe that I had laying around, had to grind the outside down a little so it would fit. Guess I should look around and get brass bushings.....lol
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#51 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2012 - 07:33 AM

Well now? This is an issue that is not easily addressed! All will require some sort of serious talent, either welding or the ability to adapt/machine this back to shape.
One method: weld the egged out hole up with nickel rod and massage it back to size and true ness with a carbide burr in a die grinder.
#2 method: find a ream set with a 5/8" shaft and ream the hole backwards using the reams shaft as a guide through the other side? This might be hard to find long enough?
#3: make a pair of bosses and weld them on the outsides and make a longer pin.
None of these are easy, but neither is life.
Oh yeah #4: the easiest, used liquid steel and glue in a new bushing with it. ( this stuff does
work, but not as long lived as the others.;)


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#52 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2012 - 07:24 AM

Thanks for the suggestions Keith. Kinda what I figured. I was hoping for some sort
of magical miracle cure. :mecry:
I'm going to get my brother to make up a steel bushing for that rear lug, with a 1/2" long
shoulder on the back side, that fits up tight against the bottom of the oil pan. I'll then fill
the void above it, in the lug, with JB weld.
Of course, I'll make up a longer pin too. That should hold for a while.

#53 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2012 - 07:35 AM

I greased and tightened up the steering box, and then went to look at the frnt axle pivot pin/bushings.


Will, do you have a pic of this area?

#54 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2012 - 07:43 AM

If anyone has a pic of the axle mount on one with the cast pan welded in, it would be appreciated. I've never seen what they look like under there!

#55 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2012 - 05:00 AM

Here's a couple pics of the cast lugs on the oil pan. The front bushing I've cut with a hacksaw blade.
The rear bushing was not there.

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P1010161.JPG
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#56 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 07:43 PM

I finally got some work done on this. Fixed up the axle pivot, with new bushings, the rear one having a shoulder, so
it rests against the bottom of the oil pan. I used a 5/8" bolt, and lock nut, rather than the stock shaft w/roll pins.

Fabricated a muffler pipe and mount, and strapped on a stack muffler.

I also delt with the hood mount, by welding 1/2" nuts to the brackets, and using large knobs to secure the hood.

P1010254.JPG
P1010252.JPG
P1010251.JPG
P1010250.JPG
P1010249.JPG
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#57 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 07:56 PM

Nice fix on the axle. That muffler pipe should last two lifetimes. :thumbs:
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#58 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 08:01 PM

Will, The manifold and front axle mount should last you the rest of your life. Good heavy iron is hard to beat, and you aren't going to work it that hard.. Nice job!! :thumbs:
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#59 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 08:05 PM

Will, The manifold and front axle mount should last you the rest of your life. Good heavy iron is hard to beat, and you aren't going to work it that hard.. Nice job!! :thumbs:


And, the extra weight up front, won't hurt, with the tiller on the back. :smilewink:

#60 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 08:16 PM

Nice fab work Will! So the axle pivot is integral to the oil pan?




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