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New 1969 Mf10 Owner With A ?

adjusting the variable speed

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#16 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 06:47 PM

In my cleaning up, I broke one the the headlights. Dropped right outta there...



Rats.
Been there, done that. The local auto store stocks them for the butter fingered GT guys around here ;) :blush2:

#17 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 07:15 PM

I'm thinking about removing 2 of the bolts from the pulley and replacing them with studs. It would make it a bunch easier to line up everything.

#18 burke OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 07:47 PM

I'm thinking about removing 2 of the bolts from the pulley and replacing them with studs. It would make it a bunch easier to line up everything.


That sounds like a pretty good idea. BTW, I've seen all your videos on the restore of your Massey, looks really good.
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#19 burke OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 08:00 PM

Welcome to GTT.
Sounds like you're getting close.

Those look like new belts.
Have you put the shims back into the final pulley?


Thanks for that suggestion. I did that today. The belts are exactly 1 year old last month according to the previous owner. I put all but 1 back in...

MF10 split sheave 9:8:12.jpg

After going back a rereading the owners manual, the idler pulley is now lower. It's still about 3/4" above the frame but well below the top. After this little adjustment, it doesn't buck like a bronco when you let out the clutch.
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#20 burke OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 08:02 PM

I went ahead and replaced the fuel shut off valve. It was leaking quite a bit. And, while I was at it, I put an inline fuel filter in place, and a new positive battery cable to the solenoid.

MF10 fuel shutoff 9:8:12.jpg
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#21 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 08:16 PM

Thanks for that suggestion. I did that today. The belts are exactly 1 year old last month according to the previous owner. I put all but 1 back in...

MF10 split sheave 9:8:12.jpg

After going back a rereading the owners manual, the idler pulley is now lower. It's still about 3/4" above the frame but well below the top. After this little adjustment, it doesn't buck like a bronco when you let out the clutch.


If you're bored, maybe, just for the heck of it, put in that last shim, just to see the difference. If you're bored.

Good to hear you're getting it dialed in.

#22 burke OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2012 - 08:37 PM

If you're bored, maybe, just for the heck of it, put in that last shim, just to see the difference. If you're bored.

Good to hear you're getting it dialed in.


;) I just figured since it was a year old I could leave one out but I think it would make a difference to go ahead and put the last one back in since the idler pulley is still a little high.

It sure beats moving the whole transmission back in my JD110 when its belt has gotten loose.

There's never boredom when you have some GT's to work on :beerchug:

#23 burke OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2012 - 09:20 PM

Well....I think I'm doing something wrong. I've gone by the service manual and the best I've gotten is the brake/clutch moves through its range like its supposed to. All is good but when you put it in "park" it doesn't fully engage the brake. Its like its in 1st and you can push the brake/clutch further down and then you can put it in gear and it stops the variable sheeve, or moves it further foreward and disengages the belts. If I attempt to adjust for the park to engage the brake then it seems the brake is too tight. I've gone by the service manual and then tried by the operators manual, there are a couple of differences in the variable speed adjustment between the 2 manuals.

Here is the speed lever in "P". Well, supposed to be...

MF10 in park 9:9:12.jpg

Here is the brake rod position in park

MF10 brakerod in park 9:9:12.jpg

The variable speed in 5th. (I think, its all running together) And, I did go ahead and put that last shim in the pulley. (nope, that's 1st)

MF10 in 5th 9:9:12.jpg

And, finally, the brake rod position in 5th

MF10 brakerode at #5 9:9:12.jpg

Honestly, it drives pretty well like this. It's just like my 110. But, when you go to place it in park, its not really in park and it doesn't fully engage the brake like the service manual says it should.

Am I missing something really simple or something?

The service manual I downloaded from here and I have the original service manual from the previous owner, it's # 690 751 M1 and then I've got another owners manual , # 690 751 M5. All for the MF10.

#24 burke OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2012 - 09:27 PM

Here is the adjusting nut position when the variable speed is in 5th

MF10 adjusting nut at #5 9:9:12.jpg

I did try and go in order as the service manual went when adjusting the variable speed, then tension of the secondary belt, then the brake adjustment.

Anyone got any pearls of wisdom?

#25 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2012 - 10:27 PM

Ok, First question, is the guard on the engine drive pulley. That guard is a part of bringing the drive train to a halt. Secondly, if you are happy with the shifting of the pulley, and it does disengage when you put it in park, then you can adjust the brake separately by shortening the rod on the clutch side, that will engage the brake more strongly. Looking closely at that first photo of your clutch, it looks like the brake is not engaging. That rod should be so tight you can barely slide it into place over the pin.

#26 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2012 - 10:30 PM

Is the belt disengaged when in park, just that the brake isn't? If so, I think some of them had an adjustment at the brake band also.

#27 MFGray OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2012 - 10:44 PM

My MF10 is a bit like that. I think there is too much wear in the linkage between the brake and variable speed control so that you have to push the brake pedal well down to get the belt to slip. But if you set the brake so that you can do that, then it is too loose when it is in park and the variable speed control is holding the brake pedal down but not quite far enough to work. If the first case (brake pedal pushing variable speed control) uses the "front" of each linkage, then the second ( variable speed control pulling the brake pedal) involves contact at the "back" of each linkage. Any wear in the pins and holes will result in different brake pedall positions in each case. I am going to make a new linkage piece with a closer fit to see if that will do the trick.

#28 burke OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2012 - 04:23 PM

Ok, First question, is the guard on the engine drive pulley. That guard is a part of bringing the drive train to a halt. Secondly, if you are happy with the shifting of the pulley, and it does disengage when you put it in park, then you can adjust the brake separately by shortening the rod on the clutch side, that will engage the brake more strongly. Looking closely at that first photo of your clutch, it looks like the brake is not engaging. That rod should be so tight you can barely slide it into place over the pin.


Yes, the guard is on the drive pulley. In my 1st picture, you can see that the speed lever doesn't go all the way to "P" but you can manually push it further down and/or push the brake/clutch further to get the belt to disengage or 'slip'. After all my adjusting, that's about as good as I've been able to get. Then when I try and adjust for the brake, it's as though the brake is set too tight and it "bucks" on you when you go to engage and disengage the variable speed

#29 burke OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2012 - 04:25 PM

Is the belt disengaged when in park, just that the brake isn't? If so, I think some of them had an adjustment at the brake band also.


Nope. The belt isn't all the way disengaged or "slipping" when in "P". I can either push the lever further to "P" and or push the brake/clutch pedal further down to disengage the belts.

#30 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2012 - 05:17 PM

I wonder if your set screw is slipping or loose. Fine thread, Square head, 3/8" bolt
Part #2 on the diagram.

10 Vari.jpg
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