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Axle Pivot Stud


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#1 icpik OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 01:21 PM

Recently purchased 1978 Power King 2414 in excellent shape. However the axle pivot stud weld is broken. On this model, the stud end was welded directly to the axle frame and does not have a slotted nut on the frame side. All parts diagrams that I can find show slotted nuts on both ends of the stud.

I figure there are two repair choices, 1) re-weld the original stud to the frame, or 2) purchase a new stud and mount with both slotted nuts. Either choice will be difficult unless the engine is removed. I think the better choice is to replace the stud.

Was the slotted nut on the frame side welded to the frame? The diagrams do not state.

If so, why? I think welding the stud or nut to the frame only invites failure. Everything on this tractor flexes, so if the stud needs to flex, either the weld or the frame will eventually fail. One the other hand, maybe the weld is there to keep the stud from wallowing out the frame.

Any thoughts. What am I missing?

Don Hayes

#2 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 01:40 PM

Welcome to the site Don! I don't know anything about the newer fiberglass tractors. glgrumpy has a few newer ones, maybe he could look for you to see if they are welded.

#3 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 02:34 PM

icpik,
:welcometogttalk:

My 1973 1614 has castle nuts on both ends of the stud. The nut on the frame side was/is factory welded to the frame. My 1980 2418 has the stud welded to the frame with no nut on the frame side. I don't see why there would be enough stress on the stud to break it lose. The axle is supposed to lay right up against the frame - that alone would keep a good chunk of the stress off the pivot stud. I wonder if your tractor had a loader on it at some time? If there has been no loader it must have caught one front wheel on something at full speed or jumped a ditch at some point. It could just be the victom of fatigue from years of use.
If you can clean off the old weld and get the stud to set straight in the hole, I would just reweld it to the frame. To pull the engine on one of those PK's is very simple and doesn't take half an hour. Worse part is those cast iron Kohler blocks are heavy. :mecry: Good luck! and keep us posted.

Ryan, 1978 PK's are not fiberglass tractors.

Edited by Gtractor, August 29, 2012 - 02:46 PM.


#4 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 02:44 PM

...Ryan, 1978 PK's are not fibreglass tractors.


I knew that! I must have read it wrong, I thought it was from 1987.

Like Kris said, just clean it and try to reweld it if you can get it aligned correctly.

Edited by Ryan313, August 29, 2012 - 02:45 PM.


#5 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 05:02 AM

Don,welcome to the forum.Glad to have you with us.

#6 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 07:43 AM

Welcome to GTtalk Don ! Like what Kris said , mime have nuts inside and welded too . On my 2418 the axle was lowered and that weld was broken , made the axle move around a lot. Unless that axle was worn I would just reweld it even then it might be worn just in the load bearing side ( bottom ) and could be just turned 180' before rewelding , as you can see I'm cheap lol , Al

#7 icpik OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 03:10 PM

Thanks for the input. It appears that the nuts on the frame side were welded also, so I might as well just re-weld the stud. There should be room to do that without pulling the motor. Hope so. Does not seem to have any other play. The tractor never had an FEL. Original owner just noticed the break. Everything else is almost like new.

Don

#8 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 10:41 AM

I take it that it is not OFF the frame yet? If it was, the trctor would be nose on ground for sure. SO,best to knock it back in-line and weld up! I wonder if the nut welded on inside wasn't just to make assembly easier? Guy on the line could just insert the pin, screw in some and put in the cotter and done! Would make it easier to replace too if needed. There should be a big washer between the frame and the axle or it will just rub on each other and maybe look bad. Don't have to be very thick. A machinist washer is best, is large center hole, smaller outside size and not real thick. My Ace hardware has those.




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