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1945 Lindeman Restoration


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#31 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2012 - 09:41 PM

Those hand activated clutches have their place and I prefer it on a regular full-size tractor in some situations, but I agree on a crawler your design is better and safer as well.

Safe is defiantly a consideration especially when loading and un-loading a crawler on a trailer.
When going over the edge from the trailer to the loading ramp, a crawler will reach a place where it crosses over it's center point and quickly tips from being on the trailer to being down on the ramp ( or vise versa ).
If you aren't paying close attention, that tipping point can throw you right off the crawler.

With the foot clutch, I can feather the brakes on both of the steering clutches with my hands while easing out the drive clutch with my foot to ease the crawler over that tipping point.

Edited by jdcrawler, September 04, 2012 - 09:42 PM.


#32 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 02:46 AM

I learned to push dirt on an old D9 with a hand clutch, it had levers everywhere, and I mean everywhere.
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#33 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 03:59 AM

That is a great idea you came up with, Ray! Very nice 'fix' for the clutch!
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#34 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 04:50 AM

Going great Ray.When I did my 1956 420 C a few years ago,I had to use shop crane to lift those final drive assemblies,they're heavy.
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#35 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 08:11 AM

Are there pictures of your 420C process somewhere?

#36 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 03:08 PM

Are there pictures of your 420C process somewhere?



I don't know whether your question was directed at me. This was quite a few years ago,and no ,I don't have any pics of it. Sorry.

Edited by mjodrey, September 06, 2012 - 05:01 AM.


#37 tractorman604 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 07:02 PM

Another project of your's that blow's my mind . Awesome work Ray. Paul. :thumbs: :canada: :usa:
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#38 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2012 - 10:51 PM

I have new steering clutch disc ordered so while I'm waiting for them, I decided to make a small modification to the battery box.
I should have taken some photos of the box before I took it off the crawler but I didn't think about it in time.
The box is mounted on top of the transmission where the hydraulic pump normally sat.
This is the best photo that I have of it.

Posted Image


With the box removed, you can see the hole in the top of the transmission where the gear for the hydraulic pump extended down to mesh with a gear in the transmission.
The battery box is also the cover to seal off this hole.

The transmission has a round hole that goes up all the way thru the transmission.
I formed a steel tube to mount over that hole and angle up to bolt onto the side of the battery box and ran my wires up thru it.

Posted Image


Here is the side of the battery box where that tube bolts on.
There use to be a light mounted on the side just to the left of where the tube bolts on,
I moved it forward a little and blocked off the old hole with a small square piece of metal.

Posted Image


This light is to light up the oil and water gauges that are mounted under the gas tank.
With the light in the old position, the wires ran over the top of the battery and I would have to remove the light anytime I wanted to take the battery out.
You can see the pocket where the battery sets in the center of the box and the light wires are now in front of it so it will no longer have to be removed to switch the battery.
There are still wires that run over the battery but they have disconnect terminals on them and can be easily moved out of the way.

Posted Image


Along with the battery, this box holds the starter and headlight switches, the amp gauge and the starter solenoid.
There is a fuse mounted on the front panel ( in between the amp gauge and the the headlight switch ) that is accessible from the outside so I do not have to remove the top cover to change a fuse.
On the right side of the box is a stainless steel terminal that is hooked to the positive post on the battery.
This way I can hook up a battery charger or use the crawler to jump another tractor with out having to pull the top cover off.

Posted Image

Edited by jdcrawler, September 05, 2012 - 10:57 PM.

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#39 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 01:20 AM

That's a neat, self-contained unit. Very good idea!
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#40 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 05:03 AM

That's a neat, self-contained unit. Very good idea!




Agreed,a great idea.
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#41 jd.rasentrac ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 11:12 AM

If I see this, I'm proud to be a "Deere guy". Only think I can say is: GREAT just GREAT :thumbs:
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#42 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 02:03 PM

If I see this, I'm proud to be a "Deere guy". Only think I can say is: GREAT just GREAT :thumbs:

Wolle, Ray is legendary around here for his build threads. Does excellent work! Great to follow along!
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#43 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 03:57 PM

Love the details you're showing us!! Thanks a bunch. So the clutches were off the shelf parts??
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#44 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 04:13 PM

Great thinking with the battery box! I like the foot pedal you added! :thumbs:
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#45 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2012 - 04:21 PM

So the clutches were off the shelf parts??

Not exactly. .........
There is a guy that sells replacement steering clutch friction pads.
They have the mounting holes drilled and counter-bored and come with the rivets.
They sell for $56.20 each ( plus shipping ) and the Lindeman takes 20 friction pads.

That is a lot of money for my fixed income budget so I did some searching on the internet and found a company that makes all sorts of clutch and brake friction pads.
They will make pads to my specifications for $21.72 each ( plus shipping ).
I can get the rivets from McMaster Carr for about $12 total.
The pads do not have the mounting holes in them so I will have to drill and counter-bore them myself.




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