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Jd 214 starts to miss after been running for a while


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#16 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2010 - 01:33 PM

Sorry, I haven't been here for a while, they told me they had to special the coil I went in on the day they said it would be in and was informed that they could not replace the coil anymore and did not order one. Would have been nice to know when I called before I waited a week, said it was "company policy". Won't do business witth them any more. Got a coil at O'Rielly's yesterday the neg terminal twisted off getting another today with the ballast resistor and an AMC coil I read some where that they were designed to run on 12 volts not the normal 8 volts for auto coils should be able to get it running. I've about had it with coils. I think They hate me.

#17 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2010 - 06:23 PM

Was at TSC today and they have universal type 12volt coil for farm tractors that do not need a ballast resistor.
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#18 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 11:24 AM

Well new coil for '70 AMC Javelin installed along with ballast resistor for '70 340 CID Plymouth Duster ( the post sheared off of the plymouth coil)
started good. Now to see if it make through the whole yard before the coil dies. Hopefully this will do it.
Jerry Lunsford

#19 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 01:52 PM

The coil is not dying now. But she is dying after about ten to fifteen minutes; so time to look into other things.
Jerry Lunsford

Edited by jerryclunsford, August 09, 2010 - 03:31 PM.


#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 03:23 PM

Fuel tank cap not venting, valve clearances too tight and getting tighter after engine is hot, vapor locking???????
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#21 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 03:35 PM

I will check the gas cap and look to see if the fuel line is anywhere that will cause vapor locking,
Can the valve clearances change the motor was rebuilt four years ago and no one has been in it since.
I will look into checking the valve clearances. I have never done it so I will have to do some manual reading first.
Jerry Lunsford

#22 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 03:42 PM

After that long, the valves & seats may have wear & closed the clearance. If clearance is all gone, when the heat expands all the parts, you may actually end up with pre-loaded valves, which will drop the compression badly.
The Kohler has adjustable tappets, so setting clearances is easy. The older L-head Briggs required taking the valves completely out & grinding off the end of the valve stem to obtain clearance! Kohler was smart! You should find in the manual, but on the exhaust valve, be sure to go completely to TDC, or even slightly past TDC to set the exhaust clearance. This is to make sure that the automatic compression release is retracted & not holding the exhaust valve tappet up.
So how is the engine acting just before & as she dies?

#23 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 03:58 PM

She starts to miss little then it gets worse, just before it dies it misses badly and backfires. I just tried running it with the gas cap slightly loose still died, But generally it will re-fire and run for a short time but power is low and misses. I guess it wouldn't hurt to find the timing mark on it and check static timing.
At least I got my yard moved took four or five breaks but it's done.
Jerry Lunsford

#24 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 05:07 PM

Jerry, that's the problem, you're just plain overloading the engine. Moving a yard is just too much of a strain!:bigrofl::bigrofl: I just had to say that! Been a long day, humor is good for the soul.

#25 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 05:22 PM

Could it be just overload (seriously) I know I kneed to sharpen the blades bit didn't think it would cause this much of a problem.
At least now I can get the whole yard done without waiting for another coil.
Jerry Lunsford

#26 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 06:23 PM

Could it be just overload (seriously) I know I kneed to sharpen the blades bit didn't think it would cause this much of a problem.
At least now I can get the whole yard done without waiting for another coil.
Jerry Lunsford


If it's seriopusly hot in your area like most are suffering through, any problem is multiplied due to the heat...especially tight valve clearance.

#27 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 06:27 PM

It's probably already been said but did you check to make sure the cooling fins are clean and clear.

#28 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2010 - 08:34 PM

Am I correct in assuming that the valve clearance can be set with the head on and the valve springs and retainers in place. And will I have to have a new gasket for the valve train cover or is it possible to re-use it.
My internet connection has been up and down all day so I don't know if it will be up for long.
Jerry Lunsford

#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2010 - 08:56 PM

Yes, just pull the valve spring cover & set the valves using 1/2 & 7/16 wrenches. I re-use the gaskets most times if they come off intact. Use a good grade sealer, not just cheap silicone though. I use Permatex Ultra Grey.

#30 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2011 - 03:06 PM

I had an old non-green mower that would do this. I found that it was wore out enough that it had compression when everything was cold then when it warmed up and everything expanded it would run pretty terrible.




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