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Jd 214 starts to miss after been running for a while


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#1 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 10:33 AM

I have a John Deere model 214 after it has been running for around 30 minutes it starts to miss badly. I have replace the coil (twice the new one died after 15 minutes), condenser and the points.
It didn't do this until after I replaced the coil.
Points are gapped at 20.
The condenser does not look like the one that was that was on it, it is shorter and larger in diameter.
Any Ideas on the problem?
Jerry C Lunsford

#2 broken2 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 11:08 AM

Welcome to GTTalk.
I have just a couple of thoughts, there's a lot of members on here that know a lot more about the k series kohlers than me. One thing I would make sure of is that the cooling fins/sheet metal around the engine are all clean and clear - it may be overheating. Also when it starts skipping, does it seem to have lost any compression? I've heard of cases where a vavle(exhaust I believe) will start to stick open after the engine has operated for a while and warms up. There is a manual in the manual section on this site for your engine, keep us posted and good luck.

#3 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 11:26 AM

jerryclunsford:welcometogttalk:glad to have you here.

#4 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 12:52 PM

It loses a lot of power so the exhaust valve could be sticking. I have downloaded the manual and take a look.
All of the cooling fins are clear. The coil died and after I replaced it the second time it started to miss and lose power after running for a while.
Thanks for the input I will look through the manual.
Jerry C Lunsford

#5 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 01:32 PM

Well it looks like it's time to replace the coil again! It cooled down andran fine for a while then kaput! died again! It wouldn't fire like it had been before so I checked the spark, none; checked the coil, no voltage on negative side, again. Is there anything that would cause it to kill coils? Maybe they forgot how to make them last 20 years. Or maybe Prime Line Power Equipment Products are just no good. I guess I'll have to order a genuine kholer replacement coil and wait a few days for it to get here.
Am I missing something that could kill the coil??
Jerry C Lunsford

#6 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 07:12 PM

You might need a ballast resistor in the circuit???
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#7 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 07:23 PM

The coil is a 231281 it should have an internal resistor does it require an external resistor also?

#8 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 07:36 PM

I'm not sure, I know there's coils that need a external resistor and ones that don't. You would think if the coil is getting to hot it would need one.

#9 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 09:50 PM

Well I found a wiring diagram for the 200 series. It looks like there is a ballast resistor in the circuit. Now all I have to do is find it on the tractor and find the resistance to check it.

#10 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2010 - 01:05 AM

Well I'm good and confused now, almost every where i read people say it doesn't need and external resistor. But in the wiring diagram it looks like a resistor in there. Anyone know for sure? To ballast or Not to ballast; that is the question.

#11 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2010 - 08:30 AM

Cheap as they are, I'd go ahead & use the ballast resistor anyway. You've been through the wringer with this problem. I've never had to use a ballast resistor with any correct coil. But I've had the wrong coil come in on tractors & yes, the coils die quick.
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#12 jerryclunsford OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2010 - 09:20 PM

Any particular type you would recommend, I haven't seen any specifically for the kholer. Would one for say; a 1970 Dodge work?

#13 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2010 - 10:29 AM

Any particular type you would recommend, I haven't seen any specifically for the kholer. Would one for say; a 1970 Dodge work?


I really can't say as I've never had to buy one. Always had used "inventory" to pull from.
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#14 Rick OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2010 - 10:56 AM

The ballast resistor off of the dodge will work fine.It will cut the voltage from 12 back to around 8-9 volts to the coil.
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#15 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2010 - 12:10 PM

If you run into a starting problem you can bypass the resistor during the crank cycle.
Some times the coil will not fire or not fire well during the crank cycle due to the voltage drop across the battery at that time.
Let me know and I can fill you in on how to accomplish this.
Warning do not just jump the start activation wire to the coil Start will not stop.:booboo:
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