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Help Me Pick My Next Bolens.


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#1 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 11:02 AM

I am searching for my next Bolens and would like suggestions as what might be the best fit for me. I have been reading about the different models, but I am looking to more knowledgeable persons or those who have experience with the various models and their suggestions. This will be a working tractor and I will make modifications accordingly, so it will not be a factory restore. What I am looking for would be the right tractor that is reliable to get the work done that I will be using it for, which would include mowing my lawn, snow/dirt plowing, snow blowing, and maybe in the future tilling and plowing. Right now I have a 1050 that I want to restore which would be a light worker/maybe show tractor.

My one big requirement would be hydrostatic. After that, I am up for suggestions. Also, I guess it would have to be a fairly common model I can find around the western NY area. It would be nice to keep the implements I have now that work on my 1050 which are the dirt/snow blade, snow caster and 18421 mower deck, but I am willing to get new ones if needed. I know my current mower deck will only work with a few hydrostatic models, or I would have to find different linkage for it to work with others. This might pose more of an issue then getting a mower deck that will just work with the newer tractor.

If I get a tube frame, would it be possible to change the hydrolic control valve to one off of an Ht20 and add ports to the front? I could then add a hydrolic ram to my snow/dirt blade for angling, which would be really nice.

I am even willing to entertain the thought of larger frame tractors too, but I know they and the implements are more expensive.

The models I have been looking at were the 1256 and the 1225. I have seen that a 1056 existed but can't find much information on them. The one thing I was not keen on was that the 1225 did not have a brake. It's not a deal breaker, but might come in handy. What other models would be good for what I want to do and what other things should I be looking for in a tractor?

#2 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 01:41 PM

I would say a 1256 would be a good choice. You can even look into the H14 or H16 as they had more HP than the 1256. Personally I would get the 1256 with Wisconsin engine as I am not a big fan of the Tecumseh engines.


Bolens never made a 1056 that I know of.......

#3 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 02:30 PM

:yeah_that:

I'm with "The good doctor".

1256 all the way. Bolens made and sold a lot of them so they aren't all that hard to find either.

The large frames are OK, (I even have one) but I still think that the tube frames, with the controlled differential are a lot more versatile.

#4 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 03:07 PM

Good luck on getting the right one for you. Looking forward to seeing the one(s) you eventually land. BTW is the GT in your favicon in sales listings elsewhere? :confuse:

#5 Guest_rat88_*

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 03:44 PM

I had an old husky 1000 (gear tractor). It was a smoker when I got it and I decided to do a repower with a 17hp kohler twin that I had laying around. It pulled pretty good with the extra weight, but ended up stripping out the steering gears. the heavy motor could have been a factor. The steering "box" was flexing and jumping the pinion gear. Not sure if there is a fix for this or not, but you might want to consider that when picking out a "new " tractor

#6 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 03:48 PM

Good luck on getting the right one for you. Looking forward to seeing the one(s) you eventually land. BTW is the GT in your favicon in sales listings elsewhere? :confuse:


<<<<<<<<<<The one over here? No. that is the one I will be restoring.

I have been leaning toward the 1256, but was not sure if any other options would be better for me. Dose anyone have any info on swapping the hydraulic control valve also? I was looking at something like this.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item2c675fb33f

I am not sure if the 1256 hydraulic setup would allow this to work.

Where are good places to look besides Craigslist and eBay for the tractors? Are there other places I should be searching also?

#7 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 04:13 PM

The 1257 was the same tractor as the 1256, except for the engine was a 12 HP Tec.. We have one and my Dad loves it. If you can find a 1257, you might be able to do an engine swap if you need to.

#8 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 04:25 AM

The 1256 ,and the H16 are both great tractors.I have one of each.

#9 bolex OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 12:39 PM

another vote for the H-16 here , with a not so strong eaton drive my h-16 will outwork my 1050 at either snow blowing/plowing it tills better and will pull more weight on the trailer , but i may have to rebuild the drive after fall tilling to be ready for winter . there has to be a first time for everything right ,because it's never been off the tranny as far as the original owner the mechanic and i know to date so it's time :thumbs:

#10 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 04:10 PM

hydrostatic ALL THE WAY i got a h14 that the motor was junk i found a briggs 16 twin put that in then put power-steering on it .. (it runs of hydro charge pump) and then i made all the air ducting and exhaust so it fits in better runs cooler and quieter and better ... i got a 1256 the motor might need some attention leaks oil smoke .. and on i did some trading and got a kohler 20 hp vtwin that i might just put in ... also i have the same idea as every one else about the lines up front ... BRILLIANT i and going to plumb in a tube frame lift valve in line with my mower lift valve for AUX hydraulics ... surprised bolens did not think of that so the pluming will go from charge pump to mower lift valve to aux valve to power steering valve to tank .... Dont say it wont work .. it does you just feel a nudge when using more that one valve...
EDIT
the eaton are STRONG hydros i like the sump cooled version a lot more then the non sump cooled
also the front spindles are different on on some the older ones are 7/8 the newer ones are 3/4 i have broke 2 of them right at the steering linkage so try to get the 7/8s one and any of the hydros are as good or better then geared tractor yes there is efficiency loss in them but there is less down time chaining gears and stops and starting once you drive a hydro the whole concept changes
Cheers
Tyler

Edited by 8tyman8, August 29, 2012 - 04:18 PM.


#11 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 07:26 PM

Tyler, do you have pics of the briggs in the h14 and how you have the hydro steering setup? I think that would be be pretty cool to see. The more pics the better.

#12 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 09:02 PM

Tyler, do you have pics of the briggs in the h14 and how you have the hydro steering setup? I think that would be be pretty cool to see. The more pics the better.

i can post pictures of the re-power actually i started a post about the re-power and my computer crashed ARG so i never got around to reposing .. i did do a couple posts on the power-steering here it the thread http://gardentractor...power-steering/ it has worked well but a seal blew .. and the kit is $60 for a couple o rings its fixed now
Cheers
Tyler

#13 wilberj OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 10:15 PM

If you need power go large frame.




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