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Walkway The Easy Way

concrete stones

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25 replies to this topic

#16 tractorman604 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2012 - 07:22 PM

For those of you who haven't used special forms for a decorative area, I highly recommend the following. I used a "borrowed" form from my neighbor recently and again today (may not take it back ) and thought I'd share with you all. It has a pretty high "Results to Effort" factor.

I'm using a Quickrete 2'x2' stone form and 1 80# bag of Quickrete for each 2ft section (mixed with only 1 Gallon of water.) After setting 3 I took these pics.

I have been trying to find a set of those. Do you have the phone # or know where he got them.Yours looks great !! Sorry i see on a reply there at lowes for $18.00

Edited by tractorman604, October 05, 2012 - 07:26 PM.

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#17 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 07:16 AM

I have been trying to find a set of those. Do you have the phone # or know where he got them.Yours looks great !! Sorry i see on a reply there at lowes for $18.00

Let us know how it turns out
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#18 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2012 - 07:23 AM

Toolpartz, how thick are those bricks when done?

They are 2" thick. Doesn't seem like it but they are strong-the stiff mix, I guess- but I ran over a corner with the pick-up the other day- no problem.

#19 Team_Green OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 07:36 PM

What a nice job! I assume you do the pours over a regular tamped gravel base? I think you just solved some walk work I'll be coming into.

Anybody know if they make a 3pt cement mixer?

Yes there is a three point cement mixer. i saw one for 440 bucks the other day.. New..
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#20 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 09:08 PM

What a nice job! I assume you do the pours over a regular tamped gravel base? I think you just solved some walk work I'll be coming into.

Anybody know if they make a 3pt cement mixer?


Yes, they do. Someone from Texas once did a bunch of hand poured curb using one a few years ago.

Edited by Cat385B, October 16, 2012 - 09:09 PM.

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#21 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2012 - 12:03 AM

Yup, I looked at several 3 pointers on the net. Thanks!
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#22 Team_Green OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2012 - 12:55 AM

Yes, they do. Someone from Texas once did a bunch of hand poured curb using one a few years ago.


If ya had lots of beer he might even come and supervise... :smilewink:
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#23 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 12:57 PM

Just saw this post and had a question...

 

Could you pour a thicker slab and press the pattern in the top 1/2?

 

That way, the rocks would all be connected together and less likely to be moved about. Could still use some sand or fine gravel to fill the cracks and maintain the illusion of seperate pavers.....

 

Anybody tried this?



#24 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 06:14 AM

Just saw this post and had a question...

 

Could you pour a thicker slab and press the pattern in the top 1/2?

 

That way, the rocks would all be connected together and less likely to be moved about. Could still use some sand or fine gravel to fill the cracks and maintain the illusion of seperate pavers.....

 

Anybody tried this?

Possibly so. The form is 2" thick though. I used a gravel base, and tamped in some pea gravel after forming but that doesn't necessarily tie the stones together. Perhaps a base of very "green" concrete first, but that could be tricky.


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#25 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 10:55 AM

I would not recommend this, with concrete timing is everything. These forms are made of plastic and trying to force them into the cement would probably break them. The concrete would have to be very wet, which would hurt the overall strength of the slab. Rubber stamps are available just for doing this very thing. Pour slab; let it tighten up a bit, put on a release agent so that the concrete does not stick, lay mat down and force the pattern into the surface with a tamp. Again timing is everything; if you get behind you will be beating the stamp into the surface. Been there, done that!

 

With that being said, it would be possible to take one of these forms, build a wood form that matches the outside shape, lay the plastic form over the wood form, and proceed as directions indicate. This would allow you to make a stepping stone that would be approximately 2’x2’x4”. Movable but heavy. Only drawback would be that the plastic form at 2” thick would be too deep into the concrete, making the stone weak. Therefore, you would want to cut the thickness of the plastic form down to no more than ¾” thick. Now you would be able to make stepping-stones that could be moved into place that would be strong. A lot of work, but as anything, do it right the first time and it will last a long time.

 

BTW, if using bag/sack type premixed concrete; add approximately a three-pound butter tub of pure cement to 80# bag. This will increase the strength of the mix and make it last longer.


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#26 Buck OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2013 - 09:41 PM

Quickcrete is not a bad mix but buy a regular bag of portland cement and add shovel of portland to one 80 pound bag of Quickcrete. Also if you let it mix in a mixer for about 3mins then let it sit for a min or two then mix again you will get rid of some of the "bleed water". Put some edging along the side and some stonedust or "supersand" in the joints and you will have a good rugged walkway. Otherwise they will move. If you have a need for a mixer you can get a cheaper one at lowes or home depot. An 80 pound bag will give you a little more than a 5 gal bucket of concrete so you don't want to mix much more than that in their mixers as it becomes sloppy and will fall out.


Edited by Buck, April 23, 2013 - 09:44 PM.

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