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Simplicity 30" Sickle Bar Cutter Removal


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#1 VonWolfen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 07:25 PM

I have read everything I can find online, including the files contained on the Yahoo Group sites. I have (2) 30" sickle bar mowers that need sharpened. These are new to me and I was trying to figure the proper or most efficient way of removing the cutter bar for sharpening. It looks like it may be possible to sharpen them while still assembled, but it looks like a better job could be done with them off. Before I start disassembling, I thought I'd ask for some guidance....or a place to read up.

#2 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 07:43 PM

Once you remove the part that drives the sickle the entire assembly should slide out one end.

#3 andy andy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 07:48 PM

you do know there is a manual for simplicity sickle bar in the walk behind on this site?
andy in crumstown

#4 VonWolfen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 08:20 PM

Gtractor: I would think the same thing....but I can't see how that could work on these particular units...looks like 3 twin guides have to come off, as a minimum, for that to be possible....but i could be wrong.

andy andy: I do know that and downloaded and read it....I may be thick, but I could find no info on cutter bar removal, after it has been assembled from scratch. It is possible that I missed it somewhere.

#5 GWest OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2012 - 07:47 AM

Search for Prairie sickle grinder and see what comes up. They made one that was hand cranked and used a cone wheel. Can't find a picture of the one I have.

Garry

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  • 15_SickleGrinder.jpg


#6 VonWolfen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2012 - 08:20 AM

GWest: Thanks.....I think I've seen a few of those sharpeners, and for sure a few of the stones with the angled faces. My question was more about how to remove the cutter head from the Simplicity 30" sickle bar mower. I removed it, but it took 4 bolts to so so....I was asking if someone knew the proper technique for removing the cutter bar for sharpening.

#7 GWest OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2012 - 10:01 AM

After you remove the sickle head bolt that connects the sickle to the bell crank it should slide out of the bar from the left side. Little different than the Gravely I use.

Garry

#8 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 10:06 AM

Wish I'd seen this sooner. If it's like mine, it should slide out one end, but it's actually easier to remove the guides. As for sharpening, mine were beyond that and I couldn't get the proper sized sections, so I bought slightly bigger ones and my BIL and I ground them down on a bench grinder.

#9 VonWolfen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 07:19 PM

Thanks Reverend Blair. I think I have the removal sorted out. I am concerned about the 2 inch knife replacement....I see a bunch of other forum chatter about the subject. I think I can make it for a while on these knives, if I can get the dogondable tractor to go slow enough! I have the smallest possible sheave (pulley) on the motor, linked to the larger transmission pulley......and it still is too fast (in my estimation) to cut cleanly. It continually "rolls over" excessive amounts of grass. It flat refuses to cut 8" Bermuda grass, but that is somewhat excusable. I'm thinking I have to buy a 10 or 11 inch single pulley for the transmission, just to get down to the crawl speed needed to mow. It is an M-1 mower, with a 1960's replacement 3 1/2 Briggs. I'm not certain if the original type 9 had a different rpm range than the current engine or not.

#10 VonWolfen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 07:21 PM

On my previous post, I meant to say it was an M-1 Tractor....not an M-1 mower.

#11 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 09:19 PM

On agriculture mowing machines, the serrated edges of the section "knives" and the section guards cut the grass/hay.
Often a mowing machine knife that has had the sections sharpened (like a lawn-mower blade) will not cut grass very well. For what it is worth, this has been my experience......

Edited by KC9KAS, August 25, 2012 - 09:19 PM.


#12 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2012 - 07:42 AM

Thanks Reverend Blair. I think I have the removal sorted out. I am concerned about the 2 inch knife replacement....I see a bunch of other forum chatter about the subject. I think I can make it for a while on these knives, if I can get the dogondable tractor to go slow enough! I have the smallest possible sheave (pulley) on the motor, linked to the larger transmission pulley......and it still is too fast (in my estimation) to cut cleanly. It continually "rolls over" excessive amounts of grass. It flat refuses to cut 8" Bermuda grass, but that is somewhat excusable. I'm thinking I have to buy a 10 or 11 inch single pulley for the transmission, just to get down to the crawl speed needed to mow. It is an M-1 mower, with a 1960's replacement 3 1/2 Briggs. I'm not certain if the original type 9 had a different rpm range than the current engine or not.


Yeah, the older engines revved a lot lower than the newer ones. I've got a 6.5 Intek on mine right now and run it at about half throttle for mowing. It's still torquey enough to take down saplings.

If the knife runs too fast, the grass just gets pushed over instead of getting between the sections and the guides.

I'm not sure if you want to go the bigger engine at lower RPM route, but if you've got one laying around, you might want to give that a try.

#13 VonWolfen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2012 - 09:32 AM

KC9KAS: I suspect you are correct. Much of the ground speed and pulley speeds in the early 1950's literature were based on a slower RPM motor and brand new equipment ....and, for sure, new knives. I may be fighting a losing battle.

Reverend Blair: I don't have the RPM data in front of me, but I'm wagering the 1952 Type 9 was slower. To win the battle I think I have to come up with a way to use an old sickle frame....remove the pitman system.......and make a mini-disc mower. This would extend the useful life of the tractor....provide haylike cuttings (rather than small clippings from a brush cutting or bush hog type blade)....and be easy to service. I don't think the Simplicity brush blade (a 20" circular saw blade) is the answer to sickle bar replacement. Maybe someone has already tried it?? I'm open for suggestions on how to do it.

I really would like to stay with the low hp type engine...it's a personal thing.....perhaps I can find a type 9 engine for this tractor....or a suitable substitute (same RPM rating, comparable HP, and the same bolt footprint.

Edited by VonWolfen, August 26, 2012 - 09:36 AM.


#14 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 05:15 AM

Well, the proper engine is always the best way to go. I had the Intek laying around though (it was undersized for the post hole auger it came off of) and before that I had an old snowblower engine on it.

Two implements I've always wanted for mine are the brush blade and the riding sulky. I've always thought that would be about the most dangerous-looking combination available. My understanding is that brush blades don't do very well at cutting grass though. They tend to rip it out or miss it instead of giving a clean cut. The mini-disc mower might be the solution to that problem. I've always like the job the sickle bar does when it's all working right though.

#15 VonWolfen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 08:56 AM

I'm thinking the 6 to 1 reduction models of the small Briggs engine would be great. I don't know how it would do on the faster pulley settings, but it seems like just the ticket for ultra slow mowing. I'm weak on the older Briggs models with gear reduction and I don't know if the added width of the gear reduction unit would effect the pulley alignment....but it is certainly worth a look.




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