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T-63 Drive Shaft Needed


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#16 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 03:38 PM

So this is the clutch shaft right? Did you have to pull the motor to pull it out?
So far, I have not had to do any major motor or clutch work (have one that does but will be a while till I get to it) so I have never needed to tear any of it down. I may can come up with one of these as well.....
So did you have another piece/shaft/extension that went with this?

Edited by sacsr, August 19, 2012 - 04:07 PM.


#17 SawltyDawg OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 04:02 PM

I think your will work but I will have to shorten the clutch shaft and drill a hole in it and the rear end shaft also since there is no hole in it.

#18 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 04:08 PM

How hard was it to get the clutch shaft out?

#19 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 05:21 PM

SD, am I wrong, or is the trans input shaft keyed? If it is keyed, then you should try to stay with a keyed adapter rather than drill a hole in it. If it already has a woodruff key slot, drilling a hole will weaken the shaft, unless there is room top drill the hole ahead or behind the woodruff slot.

#20 SawltyDawg OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 06:25 PM

SD, am I wrong, or is the trans input shaft keyed? If it is keyed, then you should try to stay with a keyed adapter rather than drill a hole in it. If it already has a woodruff key slot, drilling a hole will weaken the shaft, unless there is room top drill the hole ahead or behind the woodruff slot.

Here is a close up

Posted Image

sent from my Thunderbolt

#21 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 06:35 PM

You'll need to clean up that shaft, then clean up the key slot. Shouldn't be too hard to do with a dremel & a file. Since it's a simple key slot style, if Scott doesn't have a factory coupler, you could weld 2 "weld a sprocket" hubs together to build your own coupler. One by itself wouldn't be long enough to catch enough key on both shafts. Slide new hubs onto a smooth shaft to align them, then weld them together. You would still need to lengthen your current shaft till it just likes 1/16" from hitting the trans input shaft. The last inch or so of this shaft extension will need the proper keyway slot cut into it.
Posted Image

#22 SawltyDawg OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 06:39 PM

How hard was it to get the clutch shaft out?

Posted Image
Well here is my tractor now.

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#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 07:00 PM

Pretty hard!

#24 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 09:06 PM

Posted Image
Well here is my tractor now.

sent from my Thunderbolt


Yep.....little more effort than I prefer to do if I don't have too! At least it is sunny out your way!

#25 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2012 - 09:11 PM

I need to check but I may actually have one of those input shafts with the drilled holes in the NOS parts I got from Jack.....

I seem to remember some with woodruff key slots.....but everything I looked at this morning had the bolt holes??

It was rainy today so I was not able to do much.....Daniel tell me if I am wrong....but these transaxles are pretty much the same internally........the T63 has no place for a rear pto shaft......the casing is aluminum......and they had the multi piece gear rather than the one piece gear......slight differences in the shifter at the top........but the guts are the same.........axles are smaller and axle housing were lighter weight.

#26 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2012 - 10:49 AM

I need to check but I may actually have one of those input shafts with the drilled holes in the NOS parts I got from Jack.....

I seem to remember some with woodruff key slots.....but everything I looked at this morning had the bolt holes??

It was rainy today so I was not able to do much.....Daniel tell me if I am wrong....but these transaxles are pretty much the same internally........the T63 has no place for a rear pto shaft......the casing is aluminum......and they had the multi piece gear rather than the one piece gear......slight differences in the shifter at the top........but the guts are the same.........axles are smaller and axle housing were lighter weight.


Sorry I missed this post, but you will know more about the T-63 transaxle than I do. Not done a thing to mine except drive it! Multi-piece gear? ....meaning the sliding cluster?

#27 SawltyDawg OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2012 - 01:11 PM

Ok So here is what it looks like now. Any idea's or parts out there I can get so I can get this tractor running again?

IMAG0184.jpg IMAG0185.jpg

#28 SawltyDawg OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2012 - 01:31 PM

Also the shafts are different sizes


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#29 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2012 - 08:31 PM

Also the shafts are different sizes


sent from my Thunderbolt


Mine are the same size. I found one set of shafts and couplers that I think I can spare. I am still looking for another set for my d4-7 that I have not found so far. I would fill better selling it once I have found this other set. I am going to scan the page in my manual for the "normal" set up and will post it. I have another transaxle that I could take the shaft out of that has the drilled holes and not the woodruff key slot. I saw your post earlier, but my 20 percent chance of rain turned into almost an hour long down pour. I am meeting the buyer of my Yanmar tomorrow and will be gone till mid afternoon. The larger shaft that you are showing in the picture, is it a separate piece? If yes can you measure from shaft to shaft (with this larger shaft off). pretty sure the shaft and couplings I have are the same size as the shaft coming out of the transaxle.

#30 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2012 - 08:16 PM

Saltydawg,

Here is what I have found so far.


http://gardentractor...s-parts-manual/

Page 31 in this manual shows what most of the models I own have. You will notice on this page it references another page for models before 1964. I did find today that my D4-7 has part of the earlier version. The problem is I have the front part which I tried to take a picture of, but the "top cover" on this model is part of the tower so I would have to take it all a part to get to it, so I have not been able to get a good picture. From what I can feel and see, it has a Ujoint connection with a short shaft.....from looking at it, it looks to be a 3/4" shaft like all the other shafts I have. At this point, I may need to keep what I have since my other one is incomplete. If it will help you, I can send the newer version and you can see if it fits, and if it does try to find or make the newer version. I will sell you the transaxle input shaft that has the drilled holes versus the keyed shaft that you have. PM me if you want pursue this. Wish I had better news.






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