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My Ford Lgt165 Odyssey

ford lgt165 k341 rebuild

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93 replies to this topic

#61 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 09:43 PM

Well, I lucked out on one count--I found a guy that turns crankshafts and bores cylinders only a couple miles from my house. He said $40 to turn the crank which sounds reasonable... Problem is, he may have to go to ,020"--hope not. I just need to get the PTO clutch off so I can remove the crank from the engine.

I pulled the double sheave pulley off tonight--is it supposed to be metal to metal with the main clutch body??? Anyway, there are no holes in the face of the clutch body that I can use to pull it off... I carefully sprayed some light penetrating oil on the crankshaft and will let it sit overnight... hopefully I can pull it off tomorrow.

Another point... anyone have a good recipe to revive a weak battery? Or, should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one?

Thanks,

Steve
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#62 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 09:45 PM

Another question--

I'm going to replace the crankshaft main bearings and those in the idler gears and governor. I have a parts manual for this engine--are the parts the same for all types of this engine or do I need to go by serial number, etc.?

Thanks again,

Smitty

#63 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2012 - 09:52 PM

Steve, The clutch runs metal to metal on a electric clutch.

Here is a link to a thread about reviving old battery's, I have pretty good luck doing this to mine.

#64 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 03:56 AM

Steve, you can pry off the clutch coil assembly with a couple screw drewvers, just be careful not to use excessive force. It should slip off pretty easy once you get it to move. Do this by prying between the flat plate and engine block, not the drive plate and coil. You want to use the coils round even surface to push off the drive plate,so it doesn'tget warped or damaged.
I think all the bearings are the same from 12-16 HP.
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#65 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 01:29 PM

Texas--

The link on reviving batteries you mentioned didn't show up on your post...

Regards,

Steve

#66 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 01:30 PM

Steve, you can pry off the clutch coil assembly with a couple screw drewvers, just be careful not to use excessive force. It should slip off pretty easy once you get it to move. Do this by prying between the flat plate and engine block, not the drive plate and coil. You want to use the coils round even surface to push off the drive plate,so it doesn'tget warped or damaged.
I think all the bearings are the same from 12-16 HP.


Thanks Keith. I just don't want to bend something.

Steve

#67 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2012 - 09:57 PM

Well, a guy called me tonight with a good running K341 off a John Deere 300. Willing to trade against my Case 444 and pay some extra cash as well.

Does anyone know if the JD Crankshaft is compatible with the Ford? Both engines are K341 AQS. Mine is a Spec 71147a--not sure what spec his is.

Thanks,

Steve

#68 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2012 - 03:00 AM

As long as it has an inch and eight (1.125) crank it should work .
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#69 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2012 - 11:13 AM

I checked the crank, and it is 1.125" Also, I got the electric clutch off. There was a lot of built up oily dirt between the magnet and outer ring... I suspect it has a leaking seal on the crank.

I'll get to see the other engine Monday... hopefully it's in good shape... I really want to get this tractor going before the snow flies so I can get my garden ready for winter, and the neighbor's as well... (I'm the neighborhood handyman by default because I have tools and some mechanical aptitude)...

#70 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2012 - 06:32 PM

(I'm the neighborhood handyman by default because I have tools and some mechanical aptitude

Good for you. Much better than being known as the neighborhood drunk. :smilewink:
I hope the engine turns out to be a good one for you. Sounds like you deserve a break about now :thumbs:
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#71 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 01:48 AM

Well, I drove 300 miles round trip from home to Pocatello, ID to pickup an engine from a JD300. It has a single sheave clutch on it so I couldn't check the shaft diameter. Checked in out from the table in the Part Manual and a manual on Kohler Crankshaft dizes... the JD shaft is 1", and the Ford is 1 1/8". The ford Clutch is a 2 sheave, so I can't use the electric clutch already on the engine for the JOhn Deere.

I guess I'll have to make a bushing... it seems that I saw those for sale once, along with a modified key that was rectangular so it engaged both the crankshaft and the hub completely.

#72 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 03:31 AM

Sorry to hear the crank is different! The Ford clutch runs both the mower and the rear PTO. If you don't have a rear PTO, you can get by with one sheave if it is the same diameter.
Guess we have a need for an engine swap thread to make it easier to know what interchanges.
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#73 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 04:53 AM

I just looked up the crankshaft # thru Kohler for the Ford (45 142 21-S) and there are 285 different model engines that use that crank. I tried to copy and paste the list, but it wouldn't let me do that. May have to do something different to get an interchange going! The JD uses crank # 45 142 22-S.

#74 Horvik OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 11:40 AM

Hey dere;

Yeah, we all got burned one way or the other. And yes, them large cups do have a purpose to be sure!

I got a load of works on my hands too with a Homelite/jacobsen UT 34001, so I got a real deal too! .

It will work out with time, labor and love you know.

All the best

That's quite a story US! I'm afraid that I don't know much about the Ford tractors (except that they were made by Jacobson). I'm sure that you wound up with $400 worth of goodies from what I can see. I would do as Kenny suggested and pour a little MMO or penetrating oil down the spark plug hole and work it back and forth a little. Did you get a decent read on the PO while you were there? If the engine has only been stuck for a week and a half, it shouldn't be seized up too tight and a little elbow grease and some good lubricant may be all that is required to get it going again. (Let's hope so anyhow!) Best of luck with it and keep us posted on what you find!


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#75 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 06:40 PM

Guess we have a need for an engine swap thread to make it easier to know what interchanges.


Yeah... You can also check out the spec charts in the parts manual. It will tell you which engines have the same cranks, etc. I also have a file with the crank dimensions on the Kohler cranks... I either uploaded it to the Manuals section, or I found it there... either way it's a great reference.

The problem with this engine is that the owner was 70 miles away from the engine and couldn't check out the spec number. The crank is about 1/2" shorter on the PTO end, and 1" instead of 1.125" I think I'll be okay, though... we'll see.

Steve
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