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My Ford Lgt165 Odyssey

ford lgt165 k341 rebuild

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#46 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 06:29 PM

Well, I finished pulling the engine pulled today.
2012-08-25_10-52-19_557.jpg

It wasn't too much problem, especially since I had a little crane--originally meant to hoist a deer or hog up to dress it. It doesn't swivel, but I was still able to swing the engine onto the tailgate of my truck.


2012-08-25_11-18-06_141.jpg 2012-08-25_11-21-45_182.jpg

I got the engine home and started taking the shrouds off. I found some major blockages of the fins, plus I could hear something rattling in the crankcase as I moved the engine around.

2012-08-25_13-02-30_672.jpg

When I finally got the bottom of the engine off, this is what I found... 2012-08-25_12-34-57_740.jpg

And this..... 2012-08-25_13-16-02_99.jpg

The crank mikes in at 1.448" on one area, with the smallest reading being 1.443".

2012-08-25_13-10-01_334.jpg

The idler gears seems to be off to one side... is this normal??

2012-08-25_12-45-41_777.jpg

Seems the PO's comment about making more noise is because it was coming apart and he didn't have the sense to know what it was.

The interesting thing is that the cylinder bore isn't scuffed, and the wear from top to bottom--measuring both on the thrust sides and at 90 degrees isn't detectable... so, just a new piston, though I'll have to grind the crank journal... I hope it cleans up to just a .010" under grind...

2012-08-25_13-16-45_497.jpg

The engine has been opened up before... I suspect someone put a new rod and piston in and didn't tighten the rods correctly... I also don't think they honed the bore as it's smooth as glass, and shows lots of oil at the top of the block--on the valves, etc.

2012-08-25_13-09-36_259.jpg

I also will need to put new bearings in it, so I need to see what it'll cost me.

Here's some other examples of the previous "mechanics" work... note the self taping screws used to hold the back of the air cleaner housing off. Also the crankcase vent hose wasn't connected. and the hose from the fan shroud to the air cleaner was missing...

2012-08-25_12-55-17_401.jpg


And the odyssey continues...

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#47 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 06:31 PM

Sorry about the double post... something isn't working right on my system for some reason.

Steve

#48 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2012 - 12:27 AM

Uh oh! I deleted the one post and it took the pics out of the other.

Edit: Not sure what happened, but I went to edit the post, and the pics were hiding. Just hit save changes and they showed back up.

Edited by KennyP, August 26, 2012 - 12:49 AM.
Added comment

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#49 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:40 AM

So---how do I get the !@$#$@# electric clutch off???

I started to pull the crank out of the engine today so I could get it turned... I took the end bolt off the electric clutch, and the 4 bolts holding the thin mounting plate against the block, and pried --very gently-- on the outer rim, but it doesn't want to move... what do I do now???

#50 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 11:23 AM

Sometimes a harmonic balancer or steering wheel puller will do the trick. Just be careful to not damage the clutch because I'm sure that you don't want to buy a new one!

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#51 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 04:27 PM

Sometimes a harmonic balancer or steering wheel puller will do the trick. Just be careful to not damage the clutch because I'm sure that you don't want to buy a new one!

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2


Where do you put the puller jaws? There isn't any space for the jaws on the outside... are there threaded holes in the center to pull on?

#52 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 05:00 PM

Here's an image of a harmonic balancer puller:
harmonic balancer puller.jpg
Sometimes there are threaded holes in the face of the clutch assembly that will match up to the slots. If you could post a pic of the front of it, that might help.
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#53 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 07:00 PM

Smitty, the parts for those K series engines are pretty reasonable on ebay. Entire rebuild kits run 100 -150 depending on how much you need. Most of them are selling the Stens brand which has a good reputation. If you go for genuine Kohler parts then the price is much higher.

#54 firstgen89sho OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 09:03 PM

Just priced out a piston here in Canada, I was quoted 300 for a .020 piston and rings (OEM Kohler) and $175 for a standard rod (OEM Kohler). I just picked a complete rebuild kit up off Ebay for $150.00 with shipping, including valves, rod, piston, gaskets, points, plug, etc...
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#55 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:19 PM

Here's an image of a harmonic balancer puller:
harmonic balancer puller.jpg
Sometimes there are threaded holes in the face of the clutch assembly that will match up to the slots. If you could post a pic of the front of it, that might help.

Here's an image of a harmonic balancer puller:
harmonic balancer puller.jpg
Sometimes there are threaded holes in the face of the clutch assembly that will match up to the slots. If you could post a pic of the front of it, that might help.


Thanks... I have several pullers including a couple like this... I'm just not sure where to hook it to the clutch to get it off. I didn't really check, but hopefully there's holes in the face of it that I can use.

#56 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:21 PM

Just priced out a piston here in Canada, I was quoted 300 for a .020 piston and rings (OEM Kohler) and $175 for a standard rod (OEM Kohler). I just picked a complete rebuild kit up off Ebay for $150.00 with shipping, including valves, rod, piston, gaskets, points, plug, etc...

Just priced out a piston here in Canada, I was quoted 300 for a .020 piston and rings (OEM Kohler) and $175 for a standard rod (OEM Kohler). I just picked a complete rebuild kit up off Ebay for $150.00 with shipping, including valves, rod, piston, gaskets, points, plug, etc...


Yeah, I've seen the ones on eBay as well, and that's the route I'm going to go. However, due to the small metal pieces in the oil, I'll probably need to replace the crank bearings and the idler bearings...

Do you have to heat the block to get the bearings out?

Steve

#57 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 03:16 AM

Steve, pull the, double pulley shive off first, it should slide off with a bit of resistance .then make sure the shaft is nice and clean and shine with scotch-brite. Lube it up and carefully pry the clutch element assembly off. It should slide right off once it starts moving.
DO NOT PRY ON OR NEAR ANY CLUTCH SURFACES OR IT WILL BE GAME OVER :(
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#58 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 05:53 AM

We rebuilt a couple k341's this past winter. Those Stens kits off ebay are good. Make sure you
replace those brgs. They'll be full of aluminum bits and pieces. We managed to get the journal cleaned
up good, with muratic acid. The brgs are also on ebay. $40 for the pair.(I think it was)
Check the governor gear while your in there. Replace it too, if it has any sloppy on the shaft. They're cheap too.
$15 I think.
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#59 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 04:34 PM

Unfortunately, the crank on this engine is scored pretty bad and undersized by about .006", so I'll need to get it turned.

That brings to mind another problem I have. I have another tractor with a Kohler K321 on it that I ran without oil (--don't ask--a major DOH!! moment). I have been told you can clean up the crank journal with acid...

Do you just put the acid on the journal and let it work, or do you try to remove some of the smeared on aluminum first? Also do you need to mask off the rest of the crank to protect it.

This seems like a much quicker method than pulling the crank from the engine.

Regards,

Utah Smitty

#60 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2012 - 06:03 PM

Even after you use murautic acid to remove the aluminum the crank still needs to be polished or it will fail again pre maturely.
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