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My Ford Lgt165 Odyssey

ford lgt165 k341 rebuild

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93 replies to this topic

#31 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 05:32 AM

Steve, I would drill it out for a 3/8" roll pin and use a solid pin it it in stead of a spring steel roll pin. The spindle will handle the bigger hole with no issues.


That's good advice. The roll pin's just didn't seem to work. If you use a bolt, generally the shank is slightly larger diameter than the threads--you make sure the shank extends within about 1/8" of the opposite side. The fine thread allows greater leverage when tightening it down--grade 8 of course is much stronger than a Gr 5 or GR 3. You could also drill it slightly under the nominal size... say 23/64" and fit the bolt to it. One other thing I did with my CCs was to "knurl" the vertical part of the axle shaft with a center punch.

Thanks for the input.

#32 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 05:35 AM

If you split the arm and use a 5/16th" bolt, I would re-weld the arm after I got it tightened up. The weld will also shrink the arm around the spindle pin.


Good Idea! I hadn't thought of that. I'll also check the sponsors because, if the tractor's overall condition merits it, I want to install a FEL on it. I researched it a little, and Ford had a spindle upgrade kit for use when installing a FEL. It would be best to just go ahead and install the upgrade, assuming I could find it.

#33 190forklift OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 05:53 AM

Great story

I ruined a engine trying to get it to turn over, stuck valve. it broke out the casting inside. I would pull the head and take a good look at the valves, make sure they are loose. 190forklift
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#34 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 02:10 PM

Great story

I ruined a engine trying to get it to turn over, stuck valve. it broke out the casting inside. I would pull the head and take a good look at the valves, make sure they are loose. 190forklift


Yeah, that' a good idea.

#35 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2012 - 06:49 PM

Well, I pulled the starter today and got the pinion freed up. It was a little dry, but works okay. I pulled the spark plug and tried to turn the engine over by hand--no go. I put the starter back on and tried the same thing and it jammed again... I'd say the engine is definitely froze up... Dang!!!!

Oh, it does have a ground strap.. for some reason it's on the left side of the engine.

Steve

Edited by Utah Smitty, August 18, 2012 - 06:50 PM.


#36 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2012 - 07:23 PM

Sounds like it's locked up to me, too!

#37 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2012 - 07:29 PM

Put a diesel in it its easy, I did mine in a canvas shed. ;)
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#38 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2012 - 08:04 PM

Put a diesel in it its easy, I did mine in a canvas shed. ;)


I'm seriously considering it. A couple questions, though... I find I can't move the range selector lever into High. It goes into Neutral or Low. Is this normal, or is something wrong?

Second question: I have a Kubota Z482 2 cylinder--rated 10-13 hp depending on application. Is this a good candidate, or should I try something like the 10 hp Yanmar clones?

2011-01-21_16-11-18_709.jpg 2011-01-21_16-11-30_23.jpg

#39 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2012 - 08:57 PM

These tractors like decent power so a single is out for a Eaton based hydro. 16 HP is a must and more is better ;)
Just remember,cid is just that whether 1 cylinder or 3 .

Edited by skyrydr2, August 18, 2012 - 09:01 PM.

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#40 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2012 - 09:08 PM

Well, I started to pull the engine out of this tractor tonight. It's in my storage spot, and the gate closes at 7:00 so I only had an hour to work.

I managed to get the fuel tank off, the hood, battery, and started pulling the bolts out of the rag joint coupler between the engine and the hydro driveshaft.

It's pretty hard to get to the bolts when you can't turn the engine, so I put a large screwdriver against a bolt and tried to turn the crank... it moved--just barely. However, it moved very well counter clockwise... as I rotated it, I could hear a clunk as something fell to the bottom of the pan... When rotated clockwise, it still would only go to where it was before then stopped dead. Conclusion--a broken connecting rod.

I hope to have it out tomorrow morning and tear into the engine to see just what is there and what I'll need to get it going... Wish me luck...

US

#41 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2012 - 10:04 PM

From your description it sounds like a broken rod. :wallbanging:

#42 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 05:51 AM

Pull the head. Then see if the piston moves when turning CC. If not, need at least a rod. If you are going to rebuild, either put new bearings in the balance gears or take them out.
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#43 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 10:09 AM

Pull the head. Then see if the piston moves when turning CC. If not, need at least a rod. If you are going to rebuild, either put new bearings in the balance gears or take them out.

Pull the head. Then see if the piston moves when turning CC. If not, need at least a rod. If you are going to rebuild, either put new bearings in the balance gears or take them out.


What kind of problems do you get if you take the balance gears out??

Steve

#44 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 10:10 AM

Pull the head. Then see if the piston moves when turning CC. If not, need at least a rod. If you are going to rebuild, either put new bearings in the balance gears or take them out.


I turned it around twice CC... there was no resistance to it, i.e. compression... I'm pretty sure it's a rod. The PO mentioned the engine was sounding "louder"... You would think he'd know what a knocking rod sounded like... I just hope the crank isn't too hammered.

Steve

#45 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2012 - 11:08 AM

I took them out of mine, can't tell much difference. Maybe a bit more shake at lower RPM's.




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