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My Ford Lgt165 Odyssey

ford lgt165 k341 rebuild

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#16 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:04 PM

Good advise and highly likely. Especially if the guys was using starting fluid and it kicked back against the starter. :thumbs:


You know... the starter drive was engaged with the ring gear of the flywheel and we couldn't get it to retract... maybe that's all the problem is!!!!

Thanks much... (now I gotta go pull it out of the storage spot, where I buried it behind all the implements)... but hey, if that's all the problem is, I can fix it on site... here's keeping my fingers crossed and flinging a few more prayers skyward...

#17 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:08 PM

That's quite a story US! I'm afraid that I don't know much about the Ford tractors (except that they were made by Jacobson). I'm sure that you wound up with $400 worth of goodies from what I can see. I would do as Kenny suggested and pour a little MMO or penetrating oil down the spark plug hole and work it back and forth a little. Did you get a decent read on the PO while you were there? If the engine has only been stuck for a week and a half, it shouldn't be seized up too tight and a little elbow grease and some good lubricant may be all that is required to get it going again. (Let's hope so anyhow!) Best of luck with it and keep us posted on what you find!


The PO was an interesting fellow... he was a transplanted New Yorker from Long Island, living in a log house at the foot of the Grand Tetons, surrounded by acres of wheat and potatoes and restoring old cars for a living... go figure...

Anyway, I didn't get the impression he was being evasive, I just figured if he worked on old cars he'd know a little more about engines... At any rate, it's done now--even if the engine is froze up, I'd feel better thinking he was just naive, rather than he ripped me off.
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#18 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:11 PM

Great story! I still think you got a good deal there Smitty... The big bonus here is all the attachments with the tractor. To buy those separately would be hard to do and cost you way more than what you have invested. Too bad you had an exciting night on the trip to pick it up but you will be laughing thinking back about that trip in the future while you are enjoying that 165.


Indeed, I can laugh about it already although I'm afraid I was pretty bad company for my wife after the truck ran out of gas... it really wasn't her fault, as the gauge still showed slightly above "E".

Anyway, sometimes our most challenging experiences become our fondest memories...

#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:13 PM

Indeed, I can laugh about it already although I'm afraid I was pretty bad company for my wife after the truck ran out of gas... it really wasn't her fault, as the gauge still showed slightly above "E".

Anyway, sometimes our most challenging experiences become our fondest memories...

The best you can do here is take her to dinner or something for spending the night on the road for you!
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#20 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:24 PM

Now that 3 point on it is not tough enough, that tractor will tear it a new one easily! ...


Yeah, I read topic you started when you were first building your custom 3 points... the two don't even compare!! I can get the lower arms off eBay cheap, the uppers and etc. are what I'll need... also, the best plow of the two has a sleeve hitch on it, so I may need to get a sleeve hitch adapter for the 3 point... or just adapt the plow...

Anyway, I really admire your work on the Fords. I'm hoping to get mine set up with a FEL eventually... and... I may drop my Z482 Kubota engine in it if I get ambitious enough...

Regards,

Steve

#21 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:26 PM

... I wouldn't write off that tractor yet. Start pulling it apart, see what you find. Some tractors just throw a hissy fit when they leave the only home they've ever known...


LOL!!! Well, I've been told it may only be the starter pinion hasn't retracted from the ring gear, so I'll try it and see.

#22 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:29 PM

I went out and took a pic of where the engine ground is attached.

I wouldn't rely on the mounts to give a good ground.


Thanks, Kenny!! It doesn't have the ground strap in that location... I haven't pulled off the other side panel to check there.

Also, the lower front attachment point on the removable panel is broken off. Can you send me a picture of what it's supposed to look like????

Thanks,

Steve

#23 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:35 PM

The best you can do here is take her to dinner or something for spending the night on the road for you!


Good advice!! and already done... we spent most of the day together yesterday (no, not me reading the paper or watching TV while she did the housework!!!) and went out to Chili's last night for supper... great food and had a great time...

My wife has her shortcomings, but she is one of the most patient, forgiving people I know... I feel sorry for her--there's time I'd really hate to be married to someone like me!!!!!
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#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:47 PM

Thanks, Kenny!! It doesn't have the ground strap in that location... I haven't pulled off the other side panel to check there.

Also, the lower front attachment point on the removable panel is broken off. Can you send me a picture of what it's supposed to look like????

Thanks,

Steve

I'll get a pic tomorrow morning of the panel. The other part of it is in my pic above.
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#25 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 05:53 PM

I'll get a pic tomorrow morning of the panel. The other part of it is in my pic above.


Thanks, Kenny!!! I'm starting to feel better about this already--especially if it's only the starter stuck!!!.

Another question. The Pitman arm is sloppy where it attaches to the top of the left axle shaft. It looks like a setup similar to the Cub Cadets--which used a roll pin and eventually the hole got wallered out... This appears to be the same problem... do you have a good fix for it???

US

#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2012 - 07:06 AM

Haven't had a problem with mine, it does have a 5/16 roll pin. Is it loose at the pin or the shaft? Both? If it is only the roll pin, maybe drill out for a 3/8" pin. If both, I'd look for replacement parts.

#27 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2012 - 01:42 PM

Haven't had a problem with mine, it does have a 5/16 roll pin. Is it loose at the pin or the shaft? Both? If it is only the roll pin, maybe drill out for a 3/8" pin. If both, I'd look for replacement parts.

It has a 5/16" bolt in it... I'm afraid if I drilled it more it might weaken it too much... maybe I can weld it up a little and re-drill the hole. One fix that worked on the CCs was to cut a slit in the cup of the pitman arm at 90 degrees to the hole, drill out to 5/16", then get a Grade 8 fine threaded bolt and nut and tighten it down. I'll have to look at this one more.

Thanks for your input,

Steve

#28 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2012 - 01:47 PM

Steve, I would drill it out for a 3/8" roll pin and use a solid pin it it in stead of a spring steel roll pin. The spindle will handle the bigger hole with no issues.
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#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2012 - 02:45 PM

I just went out and looked at mine. You could split it and use a bolt if the arm is loose on the spindle. I would also contact the sponsors to see what replacements may cost. I've seen them bring in some Fords.

#30 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2012 - 03:51 PM

It has a 5/16" bolt in it... I'm afraid if I drilled it more it might weaken it too much... maybe I can weld it up a little and re-drill the hole. One fix that worked on the CCs was to cut a slit in the cup of the pitman arm at 90 degrees to the hole, drill out to 5/16", then get a Grade 8 fine threaded bolt and nut and tighten it down. I'll have to look at this one more.

Thanks for your input,

Steve


If you split the arm and use a 5/16th" bolt, I would re-weld the arm after I got it tightened up. The weld will also shrink the arm around the spindle pin.
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