Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Onan Bf/ms Rebuild Dilemma


  • Please log in to reply
28 replies to this topic

#16 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,589 Thanks
  • 29,831 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted August 11, 2012 - 06:19 PM

About all you could do is try tapping the threads clean.

#17 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted August 11, 2012 - 09:19 PM

Do you have any suggestions for the stuck set screw in the pulley?


I just cut one off a Tecumseh 10 hp engine with a cut off wheel on a die grinder after trying everything else from heat to PB Blaster to a three jaw puller that made the pulley unusable anyway.. It was one of the flimsy pressed steel ones though. Split it down the side of the shaft and then used a chisel to open the gap and it slid right off.

#18 Guest_rat88_*

Guest_rat88_*
  • Guests
  • Member No: 0
  • 0 Thanks

Posted August 12, 2012 - 12:24 AM

I bought a big cast iron puck with a slot in it about 20 years ago called a "pulley saver'' from foley belsaw. I looked for one a few years ago on the 'net and couldnt find one. It slips over the stamped pulleys and spreads out the force of the puller, It works great for the jackshaft pulleys. It will take then off without turning them into a taco.

#19 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

dthomp17

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2987
  • 494 Thanks
  • 411 posts
  • Location: Norcross Georgia

Posted August 12, 2012 - 08:44 PM

This is a big heavy duty cast iron pulley on a Sears SS/16 tractor. Would be a big job to saw it off without damage to the crank shaft. I've thought about using heat but I'm afraid that might mess up the crank too. Haven't done anything in a couple of days but plan to get back on it tomorrow. I appreciate all the input and if I have any success I'll let you know.

#20 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

John@Reliable

    Procrastinators unite tomorrow

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 36
  • 1,295 Thanks
  • 1,416 posts
  • Location: Boston- Cape Cod MA

Posted August 12, 2012 - 08:58 PM

This is a big heavy duty cast iron pulley on a Sears SS/16 tractor. Would be a big job to saw it off without damage to the crank shaft. I've thought about using heat but I'm afraid that might mess up the crank too. Haven't done anything in a couple of days but plan to get back on it tomorrow. I appreciate all the input and if I have any success I'll let you know.

Some will use heat, I've used a puller, put pulley under tension and just hit it with a hammer, it will come loose, at first you will think it broke, not for the faint of heart :bigrofl:

#21 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

dthomp17

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2987
  • 494 Thanks
  • 411 posts
  • Location: Norcross Georgia

Posted August 13, 2012 - 02:17 PM

"SUCCESS"!! I used Olcowhand's advice on the flywheel and it popped right off. It does take a pretty big hammer though and a lot of pressure on the puller. I also was able to drill out the stuck set screw without damaging the threads in the drive pulley. Apparently the set screw wasn't hardened steel because I was able to drill it out with a regular high speed drill bit on my drill press. After I got the set screw out, my three jaw puller took care of the rest and the pulley came right off. Hopefully now I can break the engine down completely for further evaluation.
  • olcowhand and KennyP have said thanks

#22 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,397 Thanks
  • 39,659 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted August 13, 2012 - 04:21 PM

Glad progress is being made! Got any pics of the carnage?

#23 dthomp17 ONLINE  

dthomp17

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2987
  • 494 Thanks
  • 411 posts
  • Location: Norcross Georgia

Posted August 13, 2012 - 04:53 PM

I haven't posted pictures in a while and forgot how to do it. The only picture I have so far is one of the mangled threads in the exhaust port, I'll upload it as soon as I figure out how.

#24 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,397 Thanks
  • 39,659 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted August 13, 2012 - 05:13 PM

Maybe this will help:
http://gardentractor...file-uploading/

#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,589 Thanks
  • 29,831 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted August 13, 2012 - 05:25 PM

Good deal!!!!!! :dancingbanana:

#26 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

dthomp17

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2987
  • 494 Thanks
  • 411 posts
  • Location: Norcross Georgia

Posted August 15, 2012 - 12:59 PM

Well, I finally broke down the Onan today enough to realize I have some significant issues. There were metal fragments in the oil pan and in the cam and crank gear areas. One piston was cracked and also had a broken compression ring and a broken oil ring. The crankshaft rod journal shows 0.004" of wear and the crankshaft main bearing journal shows 0.007" of wear. The rod bearing to crankshaft clearance is about 0.014". Supprisingly, the compression was pretty good, I didn't hear any knocking, and the engine actually ran pretty well. It appears that the only option to repair this engine is a complete overhaul and I estimate the cost to be in the neighborhood of $1500 for parts and machine shop work. Not sure I want to go that direction.

I've tried to upload a few pictures to show the damage.DSCF0029.JPG DSCF0030.JPG DSCF0031.JPG DSCF0032.JPG DSCF0033.JPG DSCF0034.JPG

Edited by dthomp17, August 15, 2012 - 01:00 PM.


#27 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,589 Thanks
  • 29,831 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted August 15, 2012 - 02:13 PM

I would never put that much into this engine, as much as I like Onans. I would opt for a repower in this case.
  • dthomp17 said thank you

#28 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

dthomp17

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2987
  • 494 Thanks
  • 411 posts
  • Location: Norcross Georgia

Posted August 15, 2012 - 02:29 PM

I agree, I found a new Honda GX610 18hp for $750 that I believe will work. I know it will be a challenge and require some modifications but that's where I'm thinking now. If there's any interest, I can start a new thread with the repower work progress and/or obstacles encountered.

#29 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,589 Thanks
  • 29,831 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted August 15, 2012 - 03:47 PM

I agree, I found a new Honda GX610 18hp for $750 that I believe will work. I know it will be a challenge and require some modifications but that's where I'm thinking now. If there's any interest, I can start a new thread with the repower work progress and/or obstacles encountered.


Threads like you speak of are ALWAYS welcomed! More than likely someone would benefit from your thread. On a Suburban, a repower is lots simpler than many tractors being it is belt drive. Locate the engine where the pulley will be at the same original location, then work around the engine fitting everything else in. This way all belts will be aligned. You can always raise the engine mounts if needed, but I think the GX will be close on crank height.




Top