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Jd 425 With No Spark


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16 replies to this topic

#1 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2012 - 05:58 AM

I had a guy stop by yesterday wanting me to come out and take a look at his JD 425 that would turn over but not start. He said he had left the key on and the battery was dead so I took along the big charger and a spark tester.

Got there and the hood and grill are already off but the cab is still on it. Hooked the charger to it and let it charge for 15 minutes and turned it over and it had no spark. Both front tires are flat, Battery terminals are corroded and look like they have never been touched. The front blade mount is still on the tractor. I am going to take out the big trailer and the JD 140 to lift the front of it with the three point to drag the 425 on the trailer to bring it to the shop.

Just one question is there a free wheel valve and if so where is it? Wouldn't have to ask if JD wasn't so stingy.

Thanks,

Edited by GTTinkerer, August 08, 2012 - 05:59 AM.

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#2 dogsoldier OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2012 - 06:11 AM

the free wheel valve should be in the back on the right side.
got the info from here http://manuals.deere...144042_D05.html
scroll down to
Miscellaneous Controls
Free Wheeling Lever
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#3 jd.rasentrac OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2012 - 06:16 AM

or can u see it at the jdpc? What kind of guy was this, Bill. Awesome...

@ dogsoldier: special thanks, never saw this JD-site in germany :thumbs: looks interesting :dancingbanana:

Edited by jd.rasentrac, August 08, 2012 - 06:21 AM.


#4 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2012 - 08:51 AM

The free wheeling lever is on the right side just behind the rear tire on the outside of the frame.
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#5 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2012 - 01:10 PM

The free wheeling lever is on the right side just behind the rear tire on the outside of the frame.


Thanks Bob. I found it.

#6 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2012 - 01:11 PM

Just looked at the wiring diagram for the JD 425. Now I am sure why I prefer the old GTs.

#7 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2012 - 07:49 PM

Picked up the tractor this morning and after running the numbers found it to have the 22 hp Kawasaki engine and not the 20 hp Kawasaki engine and the ID # was M004450905XX so I believe it is a 2001 JD 445 and not a JD 425. Now I wish I would have grabbed the hood, grill and side panels but the owner said he would rather put them on himself to save money.

Perhaps the John Deere guys can confirm the model of the tractor.

Anyway used the three point on the JD 140 to pickup the front end of the 425/445 and drug it onto the trailer and then backed it off at the shop. Worked very well again. I would like to build a three point device to go under the front axle of the towee, I believe someone built one awhile back here.

Nice looking tractor but way too "modern", and expensive, for me.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 2012-08-09 JD425_002.jpg
  • 2012-08-09 JD425_004.jpg
  • 2012-08-09 JD425_007.jpg
  • 2012-08-09 JD425_011.jpg
  • 2012-08-09 JD425_012.jpg

Edited by GTTinkerer, August 09, 2012 - 08:00 PM.


#8 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2012 - 05:52 AM

I made one for a sleeve hitch that can be found here! You might have to beef it some to pick up that JD though!
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#9 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2012 - 08:00 AM

Picked up the tractor this morning and after running the numbers found it to have the 22 hp Kawasaki engine and not the 20 hp Kawasaki engine and the ID # was M004450905XX so I believe it is a 2001 JD 445 and not a JD 425. Now I wish I would have grabbed the hood, grill and side panels but the owner said he would rather put them on himself to save money.

Perhaps the John Deere guys can confirm the model of the tractor.

Nice looking tractor but way too "modern", and expensive, for me.


A fuel injected 22HP Kaw engine on that machine!! Power-steering and lots of options available on that thing!! The thing IS a 445 by the Serial# from the frame rail.. Must be the side panels suffered some sort of malady in the past.. 445 stickers can be had from JD to advertise the correct model #! PM was sent to help ya..
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#10 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2012 - 08:04 AM

Thanks Kenny.

I would also like to build pallet forks for the three point and then maybe adapters that would slide on the forks to go under the front or rear axles of a lawn or garden tractor to move them around.

Thanks again,

#11 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2012 - 08:09 AM

A fuel injected 22HP Kaw engine on that machine!! Power-steering and lots of options available on that thing!! The thing IS a 445 by the Serial# from the frame rail.. Must be the side panels suffered some sort of malady in the past.. 445 stickers can be had from JD to advertise the correct model #! PM was sent to help ya..


I never looked at the side panels and was just going off what the 78 year old owner told me. I will take a look at them when I take the tractor back out though and let the guy know if they are wrong. He has a mower deck and snow blower for the tractor but doesn't use the mower deck at all.

Thanks again,

#12 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2012 - 08:42 PM

Looks like the tractor may have spent some time under water or a lot of time out in the weather since all the electrical connections I pulled apart were badly corroded and one of the fuses was blown probably from over heating from the extra resistance. Cleaned every one I could find and used di-electric grease when putting back together.

The owner apparently tried to solve the problem by bypassing the seat switch and connecting the two wires which again cause no spark. Pulling them apart but not plugged into the switch would allow it to start but shut off once the ignition switch went from start to run. Plugging the wires into the seat switch allowed it to run like it should.

Taking it back to its home tomorrow morning. This time it will be a drive on and off.

Real hard to price jobs like this since there are a lot of variables 2 1/2 hours labor, 3 ten mile round trips 2 pulling a trailer, 78 year old veteran owner.

#13 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 09:40 PM

The problem ended up being the wiring system had a LOT of corrosion on just about every plug in I could find which had caused a fuse to blow from the added resistance. I disconnected, cleaned and put di-electric grease on every connection I could find including grounds to the frame and engine. Replaced the fuse still nothing. Remember him saying he disconnected the seat switch and found that he had taped the two connectors together so I pulled them apart and the engine had spark and started but died when the key went back to run. Checked the seat switch and it came out OK, plugged the wires back in and all was right with the tractor.

Then the hard part was figuring out how much to charge him for 3 hours labor, three trips to his house (14 mile round trip, two with the big trailer) and a 15 amp fuse. The owner is 78 years old and a Korean War veteran to boot. Charged him 2 1/2 hours "friend" labor ($30 an hour) and threw in the mileage and fuse.

#14 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2012 - 09:47 PM

Thankless repair that takes time any way you look at it. Did you tell him to leave the safety switches alone? :smilewink:

#15 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2012 - 06:57 AM

Glad you got it sorted out Bill. That's a tough one. I guess you kinda have to average out all the jobs to get to a point where you are happy with your profit.