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110 Fiberglass Hood Cracking


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#1 slkpk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2012 - 04:00 AM

About 5 years ago I restored a 1964, JD 110. The fiberglass hood is now starting to crack in the front. Does anyone know of a permanet fix to keep these fiberglass hoods from cracking? slkpk

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2012 - 06:04 AM

The good thing is it is fibreglass which is easily repaired. I am not familiar with those hoods but you should be able to reenforce the problem area. I haven't heard of that many cracking. Can you post some pics of the damage. Could it be cracking because of excess vibration?

#3 fishman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2012 - 08:09 AM

You can get Fiberglas mesh and put it on the inside of the hood. Then just repair the crack on the top side with body filler or Fiberglas. All of mine were damaged in the front before I got them but never had 1 crack.

#4 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2012 - 11:49 AM

I've never worked much with fiberglass, but I like watching a show called "Wheeler Dealer". In one of the show's Ed was fixing cracks on a fiberglass car and he was explaining about different fiberglass resens. One of the resins he was using was made for high prone stress area's so you may want to check into this for your fix.
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#5 slkpk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2012 - 03:42 AM

Thanks and I will look into these suggestions. I think what causes these hoods to crack is the vibration and also when you take off/on the hood it's a very tight fit. slkpk

#6 Team_Green OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2012 - 09:01 AM

its almost as bad as steel to stop a crack in fiberglass. drill the end of the crack before you fix the crack. Try using some fiberglass hair mixed in with your resin...

#7 drbish OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2012 - 04:53 PM

You can get Fiberglas mesh and put it on the inside of the hood. Then just repair the crack on the top side with body filler or Fiberglas. All of mine were damaged in the front before I got them but never had 1 crack.

I have worked with fiberglass for the last 7 years,take some fiberglass mat and put down on the back of your hood as fishman advised be sure to sand good with 80 grit sand paper to give the glass and resin something to bond to and be sure to grind or sand the cracks before you bondo.what i would do is use a cut off wheel to grind the crack away until you have good fiberglass

Edited by new restorer, July 31, 2012 - 05:12 PM.

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#8 Team_Green OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 12:51 PM

I have worked with fiberglass for the last 7 years,take some fiberglass mat and put down on the back of your hood as fishman advised be sure to sand good with 80 grit sand paper to give the glass and resin something to bond to and be sure to grind or sand the cracks before you bondo.what i would do is use a cut off wheel to grind the crack away until you have good fiberglass

To be clear.. are you saying use bondo in the crack or fiberglass? I would use fiberglass in the crack. You are very correct about the use of 80 grit for proper adhesion.

Slkpk make sure the end of your crack is rounded or the split will want to start there again. The edge of a grinder disk is rounded enough, just make sure you get to the end of the crack with it. Or even a small round file.

#9 drbish OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 04:31 PM

you can use fiberglass or bondo,if you use fiberglass you will still have to bondo to make a smooth surface to paint,i think as long as the crack is groud out however you get rid of it if there is enough thickness of mat on the back side it should not crack.When we have to glass something on to an existing piece we glass the two pices together and bondo the small seam sand and gel coat we do not fiberglass the seam.

Edited by new restorer, August 01, 2012 - 04:33 PM.

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#10 drbish OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 04:33 PM

To be clear.. are you saying use bondo in the crack or fiberglass? I would use fiberglass in the crack. You are very correct about the use of 80 grit for proper adhesion.i was talking about the crack,

Slkpk make sure the end of your crack is rounded or the split will want to start there again. The edge of a grinder disk is rounded enough, just make sure you get to the end of the crack with it. Or even a small round file.

i was referring to the crack

Edited by new restorer, August 01, 2012 - 04:33 PM.


#11 slkpk OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2012 - 03:25 AM

This will give me something to work on this fall/winter. slkpk

#12 Team_Green OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2012 - 06:22 PM

This will give me something to work on this fall/winter. slkpk


I have to do my 112 hood.. i might do it soon so im not sanding in my shop where my dogs sleep..

#13 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2012 - 06:23 PM

Does this seem to be a common problem with these models?
Alot of ones I seen at shows had cracks in the front of the hoods.

#14 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2012 - 06:36 PM

Does this seem to be a common problem with these models?
Alot of ones I seen at shows had cracks in the front of the hoods.


Doc., Most of the cracks you see in the front of these are from being run into things with the hood, it sticks out beyond everything else. They get hair line cracks in them when you hit something and then keep expanding from vibration.

#15 slkpk OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2012 - 05:25 AM

The hood on this one was cracked bad when I got it. The repair that was made didn't use any fiberglass matting. This time I will add the matting/resin and then the bondo. slkpk




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