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Kohler K321 Rebuild.... Oil Smells Like Gas...


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#16 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 10:09 PM

Good advice, I just got them out. Now to find those little brass screws...


Glad it worked. Be sure to locktite the new ones in, they may work loose if you don't and that's a much bigger problem whe they get into the cylinder and valves.

#17 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2012 - 10:54 AM

I literally bought a new fuel pump assembly off ebay about 2 mins before you posted this. Oh well, the price was right for the whole pump.. it was $45.00 CDN shipped.


Man! I've got a pump I'd have given you.

#18 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 01:00 PM

Glad it worked. Be sure to locktite the new ones in, they may work loose if you don't and that's a much bigger problem whe they get into the cylinder and valves.


Hey MH81

I found some laptop hard drive screws that match the thread pitch and screw size i need. Any problems with these screws not being brass? I also got some thread lock too. Got the new pump installed last night, so I believe today will be the day that my beloved work horse will be back in the dirt! Stay tuned for pics and possible video of the ol' girl running!

#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 05:20 PM

Different metals will react to the ethanol differently. I would make myself a big memory note to check them for corrosion in 2 weeks and in a month.

#20 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 08:00 PM

Well it won't matter if those screws corrode because the engine is now making metal. Oil doesn't smell like gas anymore, but it seems like it is too little too late for the crank and rod. The oil smells like oil, but has a greyish metallic hue to it. My guess is that the rod is breaking down.

Now I really need advice. The last rod was .010 under and I had the crank ground to spec. Do i buy another rod and bring it and the crank to a machine shop to have the tolerances checked and try another rebuild? I'm really starting to get discouraged on all of this...

#21 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 08:06 PM

I'm hoping someone else will chime in here, but you say you just had it rebuilt. Is it possible that what you are seeing is normal for break-in? I'm not saying it is, just hoping, can anyone else confirm that?

#22 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 08:14 PM

Frenchy, as much as I hate to say it, time to take it apart unless the discoloration is from the gas "cleaning" the insides. How long did you run it and did you flush it out before the new oil?

#23 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 08:19 PM

Frenchy, as much as I hate to say it, time to take it apart unless the discoloration is from the gas "cleaning" the insides. How long did you run it and did you flush it out before the new oil?


I put the new pump and carb back on this evening. I only really ran it for about 10 minutes at most after changing the oil. I didn't flush the engine at any point. How would i go about doing that?

I took a video of my engine running cause it sounds to me like there is a *gulp* knock... Youtube is being stupid right now, but i'll post a link when the upload works.

#24 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 08:29 PM

Ah, a noise... That's bad.

Never mind what I said about flushing, you can clean it up when you tear it apart to check for damage.

Try not to get discouraged, if Dogsodier can purservere thru 3 "new" and defective coil packs, you can get thru this. Just think how easy all the bolts will be to take out now that you have them all cleaned up from the last time.

#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 08:42 PM

Wow, you've gone through the wringer with this one! Hoping it's not too serious. Waiting for video link.

#26 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 11:11 PM

Can't get the vid to upload. Either my Blackberry is useless or the app...

Here are pics from the teardown. Connecting rod is clearly damaged.

So in everyone's opinion, with the rest of the engine clean of debris at last rebuild, would it be safe to say that the fuel pump failure and gas in the oil would be the root cause to this? I did have the crank re-ground and a new .010 connecting rod put in prior to the discovery of the fuel pump leak.

Thoughts? If it's helpful, I can put together a timeline for history of what i've done since the first failure.

Connecting rod damage
Conn-Rod-CloseUp.jpg

Connecting Rod again
Conn-Rod.jpg


Oil on left is new, oil on right is after 6 mins or so of run time.
Oil_samples.jpg

Edited by frenchy, August 13, 2012 - 11:12 PM.


#27 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2012 - 07:13 AM

That looks like a lot of metal for all the more damage there is to the rod. It is needing replaced, but still...

How's the bore? Any damage there? Anywhere else it might be making shavings?

#28 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2012 - 08:42 AM

That looks like a lot of metal for all the more damage there is to the rod. It is needing replaced, but still...

How's the bore? Any damage there? Anywhere else it might be making shavings?


No damage in the bore or anywhere else.

I talked to my auto mechanic that also does small engine repair and he's recommending that I visit Jim's Re-Power and put a new engine on this thing. I've emailed Jim to see what the options are. I'm sure I can scratch up the coin to do this and I've just put way too much time and effort into the attachments and hydraulics etc that I don't want to just get a new machine or continue to have these engine failures.

#29 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2012 - 09:48 AM

Found this close to where I live. I wonder if i can re-purpose the K341 in there onto my MF14... anyone know?

http://winnipeg.kiji...QAdIdZ401259502

#30 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2012 - 10:21 AM

Found this close to where I live. I wonder if i can re-purpose the K341 in there onto my MF14... anyone know?

http://winnipeg.kiji...QAdIdZ401259502


YES, this engine will work. I forget which type oil pan the 716 uses, but you can put your oil pan on the 716's engine if different. If the 716's oil pan is an "A" type, you can put your std oil pan from your 14hp engine onto it. It's when you go from a std oil pan block to a "A" style pan that won't work in most cases. But I'm thinking the 716 has the same oil pan as the MF14/16.
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