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#61 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2012 - 06:31 PM

Yeah, but you already have the fender pan back on. There is a vent just above the fill plug an inch or so. Take it out and use a funnel to fill till it runs out down below. Might be hard to do now.

Looks great!


Ok, so I fill it...then start the tractor, then roll it forward and back...then raise and lower the deck, then refill it again? or just overfill it and drain some off after everything has been cycled, don't forget the hydraulic system ...all the lines and hydraulic cylinder have been changed...

#62 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2012 - 06:35 PM

Either method will work. Just make sure it has oil in it before you start it!

#63 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2012 - 07:53 PM

Ok, so I fill it...then start the tractor, then roll it forward and back...then raise and lower the deck, then refill it again?


Yes, Make sure it has something in it before start up. Then repeat, as necessary. Looking good.

Edited by Bmerf, September 10, 2012 - 07:56 PM.

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#64 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2012 - 06:57 AM

I would put the rear on stands when you cycle it through, takes less energy to move a 'free' wheel than to move a tractor. Plus. I would cycle the lift first and get that all full. But that's my thinking. Once you have the air out and it shows full, I would putter it around and let it sit for a bit. Then check again. Again, just my $.02.
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#65 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2012 - 07:46 AM

That system as long as it has oil in it will stay air free, as the charge pump will make sure of it, but as Kenny said definately cycle the lift first this will ensure the charge pump is working and you have no leaks or things connected wrong.
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#66 josh deaven OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2012 - 07:59 AM

Looks great! :thumbs:
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#67 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2012 - 11:42 AM

I would put the rear on stands when you cycle it through, takes less energy to move a 'free' wheel .... Plus. I would cycle the lift first and get that all full. But that's my thinking. Once you have the air out and it shows full, I would putter it around and let it sit for a bit. Then check again. Again, just my $.02.


Great idea! Now, whty about putting it in gear with the rear end up and manually spinning the wheels?

That system as long as it has oil in it will stay air free, as the charge pump will make sure of it, but as Kenny said definately cycle the lift first this will ensure the charge pump is working and you have no leaks or things connected wrong.


Thanks and I am on it...t is a great idea!

#68 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2012 - 12:38 PM

About the only air I am worried about is the bubbles created when you first fill all those lines with fluid. I don't think spinning the tires with the engine off would do much other than putting some lube on bearings.

#69 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2012 - 12:52 PM

Not an issue with this system as long as everything is functioning proper . The air bubbles are always there even when it has been running for hours. The drive pump and motor are instantly primed as soon as oil gets to the charge pump. That little pump only keeps it from ever cavitating it does not supply it entirely as it would need to flow over 17 gallons a minute . And at a Max of 1.5 gpm.... it is not happening ;)

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#70 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2012 - 01:49 PM

That cleared up some things for me, Keith. Thanks!

#71 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 01:30 PM

I guess this is for Kenny or Keith since they seem to be the 'go to' guys for the ford, but anyone that has this answer feel free to add input. As I am continuing to 'dissect' the tractor...I run into a seized bearing for the carriage, Let me see if I can explain which one...

The PTO itself is good...however on the left side from the drivers seat is a pulley in the front (there is one on the right side as well), but the left is the one I need...do I order the pulley/bearing assembly from somewhere...or do Itake the rivets out of the old pulley, find a bearing and reassemble it? The bearing/pulley assembly is simple enough and while it would be labor intense I could do it...however, if it is cheap enough I'd rather buy a new one...or if they are available I'd just get both so I don't have a weak 'side' once it is done...

The pulley has an outside diameter of 4.5 inches and the inside of the bearing is .617 ...

Thanks guys

#72 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 03:32 PM

That is called a mule drive and you can get them anywhere, I think even tractor supply has them. They are a standard v groove idler pulley. ;)
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#73 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 03:40 PM

If I am understanding this correctly, you are in need of a mule drive pulley. Messicks wants nearly $60 for the LH. I would think you could find a bearing much cheaper.
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#74 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 03:49 PM

I'll check tractor supply...otherwise I''ll get a bearing...$60 lol

#75 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2012 - 04:02 PM

That's what I thought. Finding a pulley with a 5/8" ID may be fun!




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